What Can You Run From 120V 15A Recepticle

scottyb

scottyb

Well-known member
I am about to head out on a 12 day trip to Arizona. I have planned stopovers in Ft Stockton, TX both directions, where shore power will not be a problem. I will also spend a few days in Payson, AZ at another RV Park while I explore that area. However, the main event is at Firebird Raceway in Chandler for the Coors Light Wold Finals for the Lucas Oil Drag Boat Racing Series. I will be staying at the venue for 5 nights and the best I will be able to do is 120V 15A power. I assume running AC is out of the question but I was hoping to run the fridge and water heater from shore power. I seached for past topics but couldn't find any.
 
danemayer

danemayer

Well-known member
Run the water heater on propane if possible. You'll need a couple of amps for the power converter to keep the battery charged and supply power to the other 12V systems, including lights.
 
brianharrison

brianharrison

Well-known member
Water heater element is 1400W = 11.6A at 120V - if there is voltage drop in the campground (ie to 110 or 100V), expect a higher amp draw (1400/100=14Amp). Fridge is low wattage and should not be a problem.

That being said, if any other 120V device is looking for power, your available room up to 15A is even more suspect. An 80amp converter can draw over 10 to 12 amps (at 100V) on boost voltage (14.2V). If you do not want to charge batteries shut off AC breakers.

I would just use LP for water heater and use 110V to charge batteries and run fridge and 120V lighting.

Hope this helps.
Brian

Opps - Dan posted while I was typing......
 
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scottyb

scottyb

Well-known member
Sounds like good advice. I will run the water heater on propane. Fridge and 12 V on shore. How long can I go on the two propane tanks like that. Just curious.
 
Silverado23

Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders
Consider installing a hard-wired surge protector with a remote display such as the EMS-HW50C, assuming your cyclone is 50amp.
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems_hw50c.htm

These offer power issue protection but more importantly, give you real-time power usage status. It would allow you to check your current power usage and also allow you to learn how much each device uses.

I have a the 30amp version and quickly learned what I could or could not use and the power protection has saved me numerous times now from overvoltage, open ground situations, and even a bad breaker in the campground box.

It has made troubleshooting power issues go much faster.
 
W

Wharton

Well-known member
Why not run the fridge on propane also? If both your tanks are full you should have no problems for a few weeks.
 
porthole

porthole

Retired
We do a camp every year where we are limited to the same power for 4-6 days

I will turn on the water heater (electric) at night when nothing is running for the most part. That way we have hot water for showers and switching to propane for the hot water is minimal.
I may at times turn off the converter during the day as well, just charging the batteries at night. But, I don't turn on the hot water and converter at the same time. One or the other for about an hour first.

You will quickly find out what you can and cannot run. But, just about everything in the trailer can be run by itself, including the AC if you need it.

I still use a 10 gauge cord to keep voltage drops to a minimum.
 
T

TXTiger

Well-known member
Do you have a generator? Most campgrounds will not let you run it at night but you can for most of the day. It will supply power for your A/C, fridge and water heater during the day and charge your battery. Run the fridge on propane at night. Turn off the A/C at night. Take your shower just before turning off the generator while the water is hot, and/or run the water heater on propane at night to keep the already warm water warm for the morning. Your batter will be fully charged for lighting in the evening too. You should heave enough gas for the generator to last for several days if you only run it in the daytime.
 
scottyb

scottyb

Well-known member
Both of us will be working the event during the day but I will have my dog in the garage. The highs are in the mid 80's now, but I have seen it in the 90's for this race in years past. I have a generator and will run it if I need to run the Air, or for any other reason. I really only need hot water for showers and dinner. Our days at the races start early, with safety briefing around 6:30 AM, so there's not much need for it in the morning. I think I can get by with running the fridge and the converter on AC, and start the water heater on propane 1st thing after the races and only run it until bedtime.
 
Hastey

Hastey

Oklahoma Chapter Leaders
When I pull our rig up by the house to load, I have to hook up to a 20a outlet. I run the fridge but the HW tank will kick my EMS off as will the micro-wave. I have to run it off of a 50ft extension and the more extension cord the more amp load it draws. Keep that in mind when your hooking up. The longer you run the larger the gauge of wire you need to get the most out of your amps.
 
jayc

jayc

Legendary Member
When we had a house, I plugged into a 20a plug but only ran the fridge just to keep it and the freezer cold. Ran a house every once in a while.
 
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