Winterizing - Compressed Air or Antifreeze????

JanAndBill

Well-known member
I've done both, but does anyone have any thoughts one way or the other as to the benefits of one over the other? Is the lowest temp expected a factor???
 

Hastey

Oklahoma Chapter Leaders
I do the compressed air. I don't like the thought of the antifreeze in my lines. Plus I think it's easier.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I use both by first clearing the lines with air and then pumping in antifreeze. In the spring, I do the same except I use lightly chlorinated water in place of the antifreeze. This is done at the storage yard. When I get to the CG, I flush with city water.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
When we had to winterize, I used air in the water lines and pink stuff in the traps. I think using air makes it easier in the spring by not having to flush the pink stuff. Leaving the air going into the lines for quite a while insures getting the most water out. Make sure you have the low point drains open if you have them. Don't forget to bypass the HWH and clear the water pump strainer screen and intake line.
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
Antifreeze in washer inlet solenoid valves (and thus water lines to these appliances) - air in all other lines. Only air into the ice maker solenoid/line.

Antifreeze in traps.

I do not think there is a min temperature issue - simply personal preference, or which one is easier, IMHO. Not everyone has access to a regulated air pressure supply.

Brian
 

porthole

Retired
Compressed air with an adapter and regulated to 40 PSI. Then pump antifreeze through.
Compressed air trick does not work for the washer dryer combo.
Antifreeze in the traps.

If using compressed air, an oil-less compressor, or one that uses vegetable oil.

Since I am a diver, I have plenty of SCUBA tanks around, so that is what I typically use.
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
Compressed air with an adapter and regulated to 40 PSI. Then pump antifreeze through.
Compressed air trick does not work for the washer dryer combo.
Antifreeze in the traps.

If using compressed air, an oil-less compressor, or one that uses vegetable oil.

Since I am a diver, I have plenty of SCUBA tanks around, so that is what I typically use.

I've wondered about the washer/dryer combo using air. The instructions on "HUG" say it can be done. Why do you feel that it won't work???
 

porthole

Retired
When I have tried it the machine would not cycle through without water flowing. Don't know why.

Not mattter what cycle you use, the WD always starts with the water flow. Mine will not run if the water is turned off, either city or the on-board pump.
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
Compressed air with an adapter and regulated to 40 PSI. Then pump antifreeze through.
Compressed air trick does not work for the washer dryer combo.
Antifreeze in the traps.

If using compressed air, an oil-less compressor, or one that uses vegetable oil.

Since I am a diver, I have plenty of SCUBA tanks around, so that is what I typically use.

Same as above. Use an inline filter for oil and moisture. Then winterize with antifreeze. No scuba tanks though.
 

whp4262

Well-known member
I just use antifreeze and haven't had any issues. I open the low point drains and drain out as much water as I can, close the drains and use the pump to run aitifreeze through everything except the hot water heater and open the low point drains again to drain off the excess antifreeze. The only thing I used compressed air on was the ice maker in our class A.
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
Just used compressed air, and followed the instructions for the washer/dryer combo. Everything worked as it was supposed to. Didn't really want to use Antifreeze yet as we plan on using it again in about 3 weeks, but the temps here have been edging closer to the freeze mark, and I didn't want to keep the heat on for 3 weeks either.
 

ILH

Well-known member
I use antifreeze. I always pick up a few jugs in the fall on sale. Its so easy with the newer setups in the UDC.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
You've wasted 12 gallons of antifreeze, is all. You don't need to put antifreeze in the water heater. Just drain it and leave the anode rod out. That's why there is a bypass valve.
 

priorguy

Well-known member
Anti-freeze is the way for me and I've been ok. All I do extra is remove the outdoor shower head as my old SOB had a cracked head when winterized before me. Hasn't been a problem since and I continued it with my North Trail.
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
Just came back in from a trip. Winterized again by draining and bypassing the hot water heater, blew out the lines, and used the winterize function to pump antifreeze through the system. It took 1-3/4 gallons, and less than 30 mins.
 

porthole

Retired
Don't forget to run the washer for a cycle if you have one.

I drain the lines & hot water heater, bypass the heater, compressed air at 50 psi (make sure to use an oil-less compressor or one that uses vegetable oil).
BLow out the lines, turn the washer on, which doesn't do a lot because it doesn't seem to run without water flowing.

Then I run just enough antifreeze through to start to see pink.

Washer for a cycle (may use 4-6 gallons) then I finish up running all the lines until the antifreeze is bucket is empty.

Don't forget to put antifreeze in any traps that that you might have missed
 

rgwilliams69

Well-known member
Antifreeze all the way - when you see the pink coming solid you know you have it set, and then the traps are filled also from running the antifreeze through. I've gotten pretty good at winterizing/de-winterizing on our cold weather trips with the Cyclone, but it does take more of it to get back to the rear bathroom. Also for those of you who have it, don't forget the ice-maker and don't forget the black tank flush. Those can be gotchas.

I thought about the air but worry that the difference between liquid dynamics and air might still leave a bit behind - but fluid fills the line fully and evenly despite corners, runs, etc.
 
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