Xantrex Freedom SW3000 Inverter/Charger Install

[brianharrison]

I finished up my new Inverter/Charger install a whileback and thought I would share some pics.

I installed a Xantrex Freedom SW3000 combination 3000W inverter and 150 Amp(max) charger, with a remote System Control Panel. I removed the old PD9280convertor/smart charger. At the same time I installed my new ProgressiveIndustries EMS-HW50C hardwired Electrical Management System with Remote displaythat had been sitting in my garage for a couple of months. As welll, Iupdgraded the factory battery box that held 2-12V batteries in parallel with anew battery box that could hold 4-6V batteries in series/parallel.

I am a bit of a stickler for good batteries so with the new high end Xantrexcharger I ended up using Discovery Energy Corp Batteries EVGT-6A, which areindustrial EV Traction Dry Cell AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat, sealed for no offgassing). This way I was not worried about additional ventilation for offgassing.They are rated at 260 AH at 20hr. In my configuration I now have 520 AH (yes Ido a lot of boon docking).

With the System Control Panel, I can easily see the operating parameters of theinverter/charger as well as custom configure the inverter/charger to match myinstallation/operating conditions.

I split the inverter load out of the main AC distribution panel (4 in total -micro, slide plugs, bedroom plugs, GFCI).

This is not a cheap installation however I was able to source parts from mybrother-in-law who works building custom aluminum boats (wholesale prices onparts/materials) and I did the installation myself.



OldBattery Compartment and Upper storage box compartment

OldBattery Box removed as well as storage box

Basement

OldPD9280 Converter/Charger in background

NewBattery Box on slide rails

Insidewith new battery box slide rails

XantrexFreedom SW3000 in place but not connected – Note theEMS installed on the upperright – I wired it in after transfer switch (lower level on the left.)

Inverterload wires to be fed from new Inverter Sub Panel

New30 dual breaker for inverter feed (Xantrex Freedom 3000 is a dual feed (twohots).

ACpanel before sub panel installed.

NewInverter sub panel connection and hidden behind Fire Extinguisher mountinghole. I can get at it by removing the fire extinguisher.

Inverterinstalled and wired (2/0 DC wire)

Controlpanel

Controlpanel closet

New6V batteries

I hosted the pictures up on PhotoBucket; Here is a link to the Inverter Install Album

Brian

 

[Sumo]

Very impressive.

 

[porthole]

Brian, what battery box did you use?

And the inverter, they are made in several flavors, single in, single out, single in dual out and dual in dual out - which did you go with?

i have a Freedom 3000 single in, single out but have now decided I want the dual. That way I can install the inverter in line with the the two AC legs. I'm planning after the transfer switch for the same reasons. That way shore power or Genny use will run the battery charger.
By using dual outputs I can just feed the main panel from the inverter, no sub panel.

I ran it this way on our first boat and really liked the flexibility.

I am also considering running 2/0 cables from the batteries, up through the bedroom dresser to the front closet and then down into the pin box, terminated with HD battery connectors.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-connectors/=i3qcbw

I already have 2/0 welding cables coming from the truck's starter (both battery feeds that way) at the rear bumper. My truck has the dual alternators, rated at 300+ amps.
Connecting the traielr batteries to the truck's rear bumper I could probably run the AC with no problem. And maybe bypass those pesky "no generator" rules.

Another advantage you have with these inverters is protection for the trailer electrics/electronics. Spikes and surges are minimized, and they switch over is fast enough to keep the memory's from being lost. That works out really good if you leave the trailer plugged in at home.

Having the Genny is nice, but having an inverter is even nicer. When traveling, when we stop to feed the dogs breakfast I need power to heat up water for their food supplement. With an inverter, my Keruig would already be hot and we can brew some more Joe.


Curious, have you tried using he AC yet strictly on batteries?
And if so, how long before the low voltage shutdown?

 

[brianharrison]

Hi Duane,

The battery box is from a Canadian Distributer, Polar Battery. It is a standard GC2-4 battery box (Link to Battery box). You will probably have more selection in the US.

I used the Xantrex Freedom SW3000 that has a dual in/dual out AC. However I did wire it in with downstream of the main AC distribution with sub panel. I considered before the main panel however the transfer swithes in the Xantrex are only 30 amp each leg. I do not have the Air Conditioners on the sub panel so cannot answer your question, sorry.

The specific model that I used is the Freedom 3000 815-3000. Link to Xantrex 815-3000. It is the first generation. There is now a second generation model Freedom 3000 815-3012, which allows stacking. Link to Xantrex 815-3012. Both were available last fall when I bought my unit, I did not need the stacking (6000W) and they were blowing out the first gen units (great price). In hindsight, I have since found the 2nd gen would have been better as they have added some more features to the System Control Panel (SCP) software where the user can modify the bulk, absorption, float charge voltages. The first gen SCP does not have this feature (first gen sets float voltage at 13.6V, good for AGMs, gassing voltage for most flooded). I like a 13.2 float voltage. Note the 815-3000 and the 815-3012 use different SCP models (purchased separately).

I used Marinco cable and Ancor compression lugs (a Marinco product) (tinned copper) on my install only because my brother-in-law is in the Marine business and I could get them bulk. However I do recommend purchasing a cable crimper and using compression lugs and heavy walled adhesive shrink tubing - helps keep things sealed from corrosion, and it makes a tidy installation.

Let me know if you want any other info added or clarified on my install.

Hope this helps.
Brian

 

[porthole]

I figured the 30 transfer rating would be OK for me. I have my AC panel fairly well balanced now. I had way too many loads on one side (from the factory). About the only item on the B leg was the front AC.

I have commercial accounts with marine suppliers, so I already am well stocked with Ancor products , including the stuff necessary to make my own battery cables.

if I decide to use a sub panel I already have the inverter and control panel. But I am re-thinking that and considering the inverter you have.
Thanks for the battery box link

 

[CliffP]

Nice mod Brian!

Curious, have you tried using he AC yet strictly on batteries?
And if so, how long before the low voltage shutdown?

Duane,

How long can you run the AC with your set up?

 

[porthole]

I "plan" to do this, have not yet.
But when I did it on the boat, as long as the engines were running I had AC.

 

[CliffP]

I'm curious to hear some numbers. We are planning to get an inverter so we can watch tv or use limited ac power. Seems like it would take a lot of lead to run AC though.

 

[porthole]

My goal with AC use is minimal off the batteries. If the AC would run for a half hour on batteries that would be good.
What I do want though is to be able to run the AC while hooked up to the truck and the truck supplying juice to the batteries.

 

[brianharrison]

What I do want though is to be able to run the AC while hooked up to the truck and the truck supplying juice to the batteries.

Duane, I'm sure you are aware the limitations of the stock trailer wiring and limiting charge rates. Here is a good post about upgrading wiring to increase charging to the coach batteries from the truck. It is off a dodge forum but oh well.... FYI.

PS - Just figured out CrazyCooter is also a member here..... Good work!

Brian

 

[porthole]

Brian - way ahead on that. I already have 2/0 welding cable run from the starter to the rear bumper, protected with a 250 amp fuse. I picked the starter lug as that was the easiest way to tap both batteries. This cable terminates at the rear bumper with a "lift truck connector". We call them industrial battery connectors. They are used a lot at the shore, winches, battery chargers, fork lifts, golf carts etc.

You can find them at McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/
Connectors http://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-connectors/=i5hust

For the most part all of our trucks, trailers, winches use the 175 amp connectors. Even though they are speced for only up to 1/0 wire, we force the 2/0 in.

When I actually do it there will be more 2/0 run from the batteries to the pin box.