View Full Version : Toilet overflow

11-08-2011, 06:34 AM

Has anyone ever encountered their toilet overflowing all over the camper floor? We were camping and last used the toilet at 8:50pm. My wife checked all the tank levels before going to bed at that time. None were more than 1/3 full. I awoke at 1:00am to find the toilet had overflowed and drenched out slides with water. And it was soaked badly!!!! When taken to the dealer they said they could find no problem and blamed a piece of toilet paper as the cause. With the way camper toilet paper dissolves so quickly we ahve a very hard time believing this. They made us pay for the trim work that was ruined also.

Anyone have any suggestions or has this happened to anyone else? This is extremely upsetting to us especially since it is a brand new camper and being our first trip with it.

11-08-2011, 08:12 AM
Only when I connected the water to the black tank flusher and forgot about it. For others, when they connected to the water to the black tank flusher, thinking it was the fresh water connection - and left it there until it showed a sign :)

Was the water that leaked onto the floor, mostly clear? My guess is that the flush valve stuck partly open, filling the bowl and running over until you found it. then you hit the pedal to make it go down and unstuck it.

After all of this, was your black tank full?


11-08-2011, 08:12 AM
Hello Yarlettmatt and welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of useful information here.
Was the water that overflowed clean water or black water from the tank?
I have heard of a couple of overflows, but usually it is from a person leaving the tank flusher running while being distracted, Then it is the water from the tank that overflows. Not a pretty sight.
Because you did not mention a stinky mess I am guessing that was not what happened to you.
If there was an overflow, the water had to come from somewhere and that would have to be the toilet valve. If there was a piece of TP stuck in there then the water would be leaking out of the bowl into the tank.
The toilet instructions say to let the foot lever snap up into place. I was never comfortable just letting it snap up but always let it come up rapidly.
If I were in your shoes I would hook up my water supply and somehow mark the water level in the bowl and monitor it. It could have a faulty valve.
And because I was not there, I gotta ask. Was the bowl actually full and overflowing or did you just find water all over. Maybe one of the fittings or the valve itself are leaking and causing the mess.
Just a couple of things to consider.


11-08-2011, 08:18 AM
Don't know if this is the same problem as yours, but this DID happen to us. The water supply valve had gone bad and was allowing water into the bowl. Ours is a Sealand 210 and was less then 2 years old when it happened. We now carry an extra valve with us, however, will not stop from overflowing should valve go bad. At first thought the foot lever was stuck allowing valve to stay partially open, but soon learned otherwise. Our unit was only 2 years old at the time. In 10 years of owning our previous rig, this never happened, was a Thetford brand, however. Believe some of the newer toilets have an overflow port, however, this could lead to a different problem with holding tank becoming full and overflowing - much bigger mess...

11-08-2011, 11:01 AM
I don't think the Sealand 210 has an overflow other than onto the floor. If you've pulled the bowl seals out, you will see why (no opening for the water to run into the drain). Although I have not had this type of leak, I have had to replace the seals already. Not a big job, but I think a future "mod" might be to install a shut-off valve in the supply line to the toilet, just like in a sticks 'n' bricks. That way if there is a problem with the flush valve, I can isolate it and still have water in the rig until it's fixed. If I get real frisky, I might put shut-offs on all faucet supply lines.

I gotta think, though, with only four hours of it running unchecked, you must have had a pretty good flow for it to flood the interior as you say. Glad I'm a light sleeper (unless adult beverages have been somehow involved :o).

11-08-2011, 09:56 PM
Which seals are those that you replace John? The ones at the floor or the ones at the sliding disk under the bowl? Just wondering what I have to watch out for and why? Tom

11-09-2011, 12:19 AM
I have changed the ball seal twice already in 2 years and now buy them in sets of 3's because the last 2 times they leaked for months before changing it. Takes me 10 minutes and don't bother shutting the water anymore.

Tried everything to repair the leak and later found out the seal gets realy sticky and rough and no way will it seal. it also stretches and will not set on the ball.

P.S. Never had one issue with the previous trailer closet in 15 years.

11-09-2011, 12:28 AM
When we arrived at our destination on our shakedown trip, the bathroom floor was all wet. Checked the toilet and the bowl was about a quarter full. The valve let too much water in the bowl and it sloshed out on the way. Used it a lot during our stay and the water level went down and stayed down. Did check the level after the last use when we left and the water level was down where it should be. Guess the valve was a bit stiff and loosened up with use. Been fine ever since.

11-09-2011, 09:20 AM
Which seals are those that you replace John? The ones at the floor or the ones at the sliding disk under the bowl? Just wondering what I have to watch out for and why? Tom

The seals at the ball valve at the bottom of the bowl are the ones usually replaced. I suppose you can leave the water on, but that requires you to leave the line attached at the back of the toilet bowl. That restricts how far you can move it out of the way and having to set it on something so the line doesn't get kinked. Drain the bowl, remove the large screw clamp joining the upper and lower halves of the toilet, and lift the top part off. The seals are now exposed on top of the ball valve. Good idea to clean any crud off the ball edges while you're there. When reattaching the parts, I found it pays to put the screw clamp across the gap at the rear of the toilet, or it may leak due to incomplete compression around the rest of it.