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Lickitysplit
01-18-2008, 03:38 PM
I am going to winterize my 3400RL this evening for the first time. It's supossed to get in the low teens again here in AR tonight.

Can I use a 7 gallon airtank to air the water system up and then open the water faucets in the 5er to force the water out of the lines?

My plan is to drain the HW tank and reinstall the plug. Install the air hose adapter at the fresh water port, then air the water system up to 20 psi. Then go in the coach and open the faucets one at a time to purge the water out of the lines. After this is complete I will remove the anode rod from the HW tank and close the HW heater bypass and continue with the advised winterizing process.

Will this plan work?? If you have any feedback, please let me know.

Thanks, Jeff:)

cdbMidland
01-18-2008, 03:48 PM
Jeff, I didn't use air through the hot water heater, but rather used air with the bypass valves turned on to avoid the hot water heater. Don't forgot both sides of the outside shower spray, and if your slides are out, or can be out, and you have the plumbing for the washer/dryer, blow that out as well (I haven't for the past three years, with no effect, but maybe there is another valve somewhere that prevents water from going into that line, unless needed).

After using the air, I still went with the propylene glycol - its relatively cheap insurance, and with the air blowing out the lines first, you shouldn't need too much (maybe a couple of gallons). Make sure the pink stuff is in the p-traps for the drains as well.

Once you are through, then reinstall the anode rod in the hot water heater.

Goldenwingers
01-18-2008, 04:30 PM
Using an air tank you have no way to control the pressure. I have done it with an air tank by having the wife open water valves in the trailer then I would crack the air valve untill she got air but never put the full pressure of the tank on the system unless you have a regulator. If you do set it for about 20 lbs and begin draining the lines.

Don

Lickitysplit
01-18-2008, 05:01 PM
Guys, Thanks for the responses. I figured with the water heater empty and the bypass valve open I would be pretty much using the hot water tank as an air tank. Since the HW tank is a 12 gallon tank and my air tank is 7 gallons I didn't think there would be any way to over pressurize the system. I will just air it up and check it with a guage to verify that I don't over pressurize it. I think it will work won't it ??

Don, if I had the 5er at the house it would be very easy as I could just blow it out with my compressor.

cdbmidland, On my 3400RL it has a cold and a hot water low point drain under the toilet room which is right next to the closet where the washer and dryer plumbing is located. Opening these drains should take care of the water in those lines I think ??

Ideas always welcome here!!

Jeff:)

BluegrassMan
01-19-2008, 12:13 AM
Guys:

I have used air in the past to winterize, then I stopped. I was told be a RV technician that just about all trailers have inconsistancies in the plumbing of the lines, that water could lay there and if the conditions were "right", the air could go over and past the water. Everything's fine till it freezes and expands, then you could pop a line, probably somewhere hard to find or get to.

Thus, I ALWAYS use anti-freeze from then on. The Landmarks have a winterizing system built in and that makes it MUCH easier.

Goldenwingers
01-19-2008, 11:14 AM
Don't trust the low point drains to get all the water out of every valve in the trailer, the toilet valve for one. I have never used just air pressure either but do blow out what water I can and then put antifreeze in the system this way there is less water in the system to dilute the antifreeze.

Just my way of doing it.
Don

katkens
01-19-2008, 11:39 AM
Don't trust the low point drains to get all the water out of every valve in the trailer, the toilet valve for one. I have never used just air pressure either but do blow out what water I can and then put antifreeze in the system this way there is less water in the system to dilute the antifreeze.

Just my way of doing it.
Don

I do as Don does and blow mine out, then follow with antifreeze. It might be a little overkill but it satisfies what little mind I have left.:) I have a few friends that only use air and haven't had problems...but...I fill better doing the double wammy.....Ken

Lickitysplit
01-19-2008, 04:30 PM
My 3400RL also has the winterizing kit including the hot water heater bypass. It seems like a very nice system.

The temperature got down to 9 degrees F last night in NW AR. I went over to my storage building this morning. I had placed a temp. guage there last night just to see how cold it gets in this very insulated building. To my surprise it was 42 degrees in the building. Thats a 33 degree deference !! Wow, was I surprised. I guess what I am trying to say is, it would have to get very cold for the 5er to freeze up in this storage building or many, many cold nights in a row. Might not ever have to winterize just keep a watchful eye on the temp. forecasts. We like to use it occasionally in the winter on the nice weekends.

Still can't find the fresh water tank drain. I have been under the entire rig. On the door side there is a hot and a cold low point drain and on the ODS there is a cold drain. I don't think my rig has the quick drain system and my owners manual doesn't seem to be very accurate for my 2009 model.

I guess I will contact the factory to see if I can get a schematic of the water system.

Jeff