Kitchen Receptacles NOT working

JoeAmy

Member
Woke up to the coffee maker not working, NOT good! Kitchen receptacles are not working, and the very generic usb manual referred me to try and find a GFI. Only one I found was in the bathroom and it was not tripped, but I reset it anyway and kitchen receptacles are still not working. Is there another GFI receptacle I'm missing somewhere or something else I should be checking? Thank you, Joe
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi JoeAmy,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.

It might help to know what year/model/floor plan you have (ex: 2016 Bighorn 3610RE).

Look around the kitchen for other outlets that might be GFCI. If none, also check the main circuit breaker panel. If a breaker in the panel has tripped, it may be hard to see. Flip each breaker off and back on.
 

dlw930

Well-known member
If the GFCI isn't tripped, a breaker at the main panel is most likely tripped. Reset it as danemayer suggests. If a breaker tripped, that circuit is probably overloaded. If it trips again, check for electric heaters, toasters, electric skillets, etc that might be drawing high current and unplug/turn off as necessary. Gotta have coffee!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
If the breaker is not tripped, check the outlets for power at the GFCI outlet (using a light or anything portable that you can plug into it).

Though unlikely, it has happened before, the GFCI outlet could be defective in that it's not passing power to the downstream outlets.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
My kitchen plugs are controlled by the GFCI in the bathroom of all places...

Ron - on the 5th wheels, putting the GFCI receptacle in the bathroom is pretty standard with Heartland. Most find it pretty accessible in the event of servicing.

In your kitchen, your microwave will be on a circuit separate from the GFCI circuit. All those on an island with a sink will be on the GFCI.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
On our previous Heartland Trail Runner and current Heartland Prowler the kitchens were hooked up to the bathroom GFI.

We've tripped it a few times (coffee maker and hair dryer or curling iron at the same time will do it).
 

Apropdoc

Utah Chapter Leaders-retired
On my 2017 30RKDD NT, the primary GFCI is next to the LP detector. It controls the kitchen and the bath. Just a suggestion, Lowe's and Home Depot both sell GFCI outlet testers that are great for testing GFCI circuits. It gives an immediate indication of a bad GFCI.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Just for a bit of information there is both a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (outlet) on the GFI circuit AND a regular 15 amp circuit breaker. The GFI is supposed to be an electrical shock prevention device, detecting an imbalance in current between the GFI circuit hot and neutral wiring. An imbalance is ASSUMED to be electricity shocking someone, and an internal relay in the outlet immediately shuts off the current. The GFI circuit breaker is a normal circuit breaker that detects branch current draws in excess of 15 amps which can cause wiring heating and a fire danger.
 

travlingman

Well-known member
Is it only the receptacles in the kitchen not working? Have you checked the other receptacles on the GFCI? Ours quit in the kitchen and outside, but worked in bathroom. Finally found that a wire had arced in the receptacle by outside baggage door.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
I had three outlets go out. It took a bit of time opening the outlets and looking at the connections. The fault was in a working outlet. The junction to the non working outlets in the chain was open. The connections are insulation displacement. The first wire was not pushed all the way down and by the time the third wire was barely connected and eventually popped off. Here is a picture of the problem I found. Both the black HOT and the safety ground was open. Hopefully you don't have the case one like this down. You may also want to check the junction box under the slide to make sure the connections are not loose as well.

Open Ground.jpg
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
I had three outlets go out. It took a bit of time opening the outlets and looking at the connections. The fault was in a working outlet. The junction to the non working outlets in the chain was open. The connections are insulation displacement. The first wire was not pushed all the way down and by the time the third wire was barely connected and eventually popped off. Here is a picture of the problem I found. Both the black HOT and the safety ground was open. Hopefully you don't have the case one like this down. You may also want to check the junction box under the slide to make sure the connections are not loose as well.


Perhaps I am looking at this the wrong way...or I don't know what I'm looking at...???

Where is the specific problem? It is big picture, but I can't figure out what I'm really looking at.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Perhaps I am looking at this the wrong way...or I don't know what I'm looking at...???

Where is the specific problem? It is big picture, but I can't figure out what I'm really looking at.

Marc is showing the inside of a typical RV AC Receptacle. They use an IDC (info) to connect the AC conductors to the receptacle. Sometimes, the Romex is not prepared properly and the IDC misses its mark causing a poorly made connection.
 
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