Accidentally plugged into 220V Nothing works properly

wdk450 said:

You need to take measurements with an AC voltmeter and logically work your way from the outside shore power electrical outlet to the non-working devices looking for voltage present or voltage not present. There are many different configurations of RV trailer AC wiring. Do the AC power first. DC (battery) power working/not working should have no effect on AC power working. Remember that BOTH hot and neutral on a 120 volt circuit should be conducting to get a current flow. I would be checking both ends of the shore cable for voltage, then jump to the breaker panel. Take off the front cover of the panel, and you should see the 4 large wires coming in from the shore power cord (there is a receptacle and a power transfer relay generally between the shore plug and the breaker panel). There should be a large cable with 4 large wires connecting to the breaker panel - a ground wire, a neutral wire, and 2 hot phase wires. Measure from each of the hot phases to the neutral to check for voltage. You may have to remove a couple of branch breakers (choose 2 side-by-side to be sure you can access both phases) With the mains ON check both of the hot contacts for the removed breakers to see if the mains are conducting.

I am assuming that you have a 50 amp RV plug originally installed on your trailer and are using a 30 amp male plug to 50 amp female socket adapter. This adapter connects the 2 50 amp hot wires together in parallel so that what is normally 2 different 50 amp phases with a 50 amp supply, is now a SHARED 120 volt 30 amp service. Once you get the AC branches working, you then get to check EVERYTHING with AC power to see if it still works.

DC not charging the battery may be just fuses blown on the inverter/converter which is usually in the crawl space, but you also could have blown out this expensive high-end device.

Good luck!!!

Click to expand...

danemayer said:

Bill,

It sounds like you may have fried your Power Converter. Its function is to convert 120V AC shore power to 12V DC. The 12V DC supplies power to the fuse box and also to charge the battery.

The fact that after manually charging the battery your interior lights and thermostat, etc. all work says that the path from battery through buss bar to the Power Converter and fuse box is ok. Just not getting 12V DC out of the converter.

You can find out more about the RV electrical by consulting our owner-written Electrical User Guide in this folder.

It's usually not too difficult to replace the Power Converter, but the specific part, and the location, varies depending on what trailer you have.

You'll need to be alert for other components that may have suffered damage from the 220V experience. Sometimes damage may not show up immediately.

Click to expand...

BillBoothOutdoors said:

I really appreciate your input and advice. I will follow your steps and hope for the best on the appliances. What happened was I had a 50amp 220V circuit for a previous RV and I just assumed this new one was 30amp 220v so i just installed a new breaker and recp. lesson learned... never assume! thanks again

Click to expand...

wdk450 said:

Did your trailer come with a 50 amp plug (4 prongs in a diamond pattern) or a 30 amp plug (3 prongs, 2 at 45 degree angle from vertical)? What Heartland Brand/Model/year do you have? Knowing this info will help other forum members help you.

Click to expand...

'Lil Guy' said:

Listen to Dan. Sounds like you've lost your converter. We lost ours twice(self induced) and were able to operate using shore power and a battery charger while waiting on our new converter. Save yourself some money and order it from the supplier who makes it. Good luck.

Click to expand...

CoveredWagon said:

None of the Rvs that I know of use 220 volts. The 50 amp systems use two separate 110 circuits.

Click to expand...