Leaking waste water.

I have a new 2013 Greystone 32 RES. Everytime I unscrew the waste pipe cap I get flooded with black tank waste, not a lot but enough that it is very unpleasant. The dump valve is closed and the waste tank if it has anything at all in it is is very little. I even have this happen after I flush out the black tank, I will empty the black tank, then the grey tanks and then flush the black tank for several minutes, the next time I go to connect the sewer pipe, I remove the cap and get crap water on my hands again. Does anyone else have this issue?

Robert Keller
 

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Administrator
Staff member
Robstacy, welcome to the forum. There is a lot of useful information here and plenty of great people to help out.
Your problem is not uncommon. There could be a few reasons why you are getting some black water leakage.
If you don't flush the black tank before closing the valve you risk jamming some TP in the seal. This would not allow the valve to close completely.
There may also be some construction debris in there as well.
One thing that many people, including myself, do is to add a Valterra spin on valve to the waste pipe.
You would then be able to connect your hose before opening the new valve and no more messy shoes.
Here is a link to what I am talking about.

Peace
Dave
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
My solution, rather than leave the large twist-on valve in place, is to replace the sewer cap with one that has the small hose fitting on it. To that, I attached a small in-line hose valve and cap it. When I need to hook up, a small container under the valve takes care of any liquid that may have accumulated in the piping. I know my valves don't leak (yet), but there is always going to be some residual liquid in piping after you dump and close the cap.
 

Kbvols

Well-known member
I'll echo Dave the twist on valve by Valterra works great. I believe the model is T 58 is around $25. I bought one at CW.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
If it's only a little, rather than a leak, you may just have a little fluid staying in the horizontal section of pipe. When you travel, it works its way to the end of the pipe where it waits for you to get your shoes into the right position.

Whatever the cause might be, the Valterra Gate valve will save you a lot of aggravation.
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
Same thing happened to me the first time I used it. A twist on valve is the first thing I bought for it. Works great if one of the other valves gets stuck open for any reason also. Should be standard equipment...Don
 

rick_debbie_gallant

Well-known member
When we did our PDI the person doing it highly recommended the valvtec swivel valve. Glad we listened to him.


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wyleyrabbit

Well-known member
I couldn't agree more. I consider the Valterra twist-on valve a must have. Ours is always on, and now we never have the problem with stinky mystery water leaking on to anything. I don't open that valve until we have our Sewer Solution connected up on both ends. No mess, no stench. Best $25 you'll spend.
 

Birchwood

Well-known member
This is common ,attach your sewer hose first ,hold the opening end of the sewer hose under the valve outlet,
and remove the waste pipe cap.I have never removed the sewer cap without some drainage occuring.Also,you
can also hold a pail under the outlet to capture the drainage.
 

TandT

Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
Gaffer:282744 said:
Get the twist on valve.

I agree 100%. We have all been through this.

The valve at the cap eliminates just about any chance of a spill. Trace
 
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rick_debbie_gallant

Well-known member
This is common ,attach your sewer hose first ,hold the opening end of the sewer hose under the valve outlet,
and remove the waste pipe cap.I have never removed the sewer cap without some drainage occuring.Also,you
can also hold a pail under the outlet to capture the drainage.

Sorry birch-wood but my DW would not help me while I held the stinky slinky and she removed the sewer cap.

The valvtec is the only way to go.


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olcoon

Well-known member
I had the same problem, bought the Valterra twist-on valve & the problem ended. One thing I learned on here is to have the pull handle slanted towards the rear to keep it from coming come loose & losing it on the road. I went one step further & used Gorilla Tape, and taped on for some insurance.
 

Garypowell

Well-known member
I used the same valve solution. But eventually you'll want to solve the cause of the leakage. If you are handy you can drop the belly where the lines come out and trace the lines to figure out the errant valve. I scratched my head for a while since everthing is so tight under there. But eventually came upon the idea of simply cutting the valve out of the line. I left enough room to use a rubber connector from the plumbing dept. once out I found the thing that was keeping the valve from closing and removed. Slipped on the rubber collars put the valve back in line moved the collars in place and tightened down the hose clamps.

I still used the valve even after fixed. I sold that unit but with the collar it would be easy to fix again.
 

olcoon

Well-known member
Shortly after we got out Elk Ridge, I'd have about 2 1/2 gal come out when I'd remove the cap to drain the tanks. After a few trips back to the dealer they finally got it fixed. Then 2 summers ago the black tank wouldn't drain. We were work camping at the time, & couldn't really tear into it. After trying a lot of different things, & finally got it draining. When we got home, I found out that when they cut the hole in the tank to install the drain, the plug from the hole that was left the in the tank was stuck in the valve, and wouldn't allow the valve to close 100%. Had to buy a new valve & cable as apparently they just don't sell the valve. Installed it & life was good...for a while. It started leaking at the valve, & it seemed like no matter what I did it would be good for a while but start leaking again. Finally figured out that when I would re-install the valve, due to not having much room there, etc. I was messing up the rubber seal. Finally, this last summer with some help from Kevin Wolbeck, got it fixed. Pretty simple fix, cut a short section out of the drain pipe, & put a thick rubber sleeve on the outside. This allowed me to get the valve installed without problems, then put the drain pipe in both ends of the sleeve. Haven't had a leak since.
 

TandT

Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
I used the same valve solution. But eventually you'll want to solve the cause of the leakage.

In my case the problem is not leakage.

The fact is that waste water simply sits in the pipe because the remote valves are quite a distance back from the end cap.

Unless the rig is drastically sloped towards the end cap, you will almost always end up with some residue left in the drain pipe.

The spin on valve has been the logical fix for that problem. IMHO Trace
 
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