Sounds like you tripped a GFCI outlet. Check for a reset button on one of you outlets close to your wet locations. I.e. Next to kitchen sink or in the bathroom.
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I had heard of these problems with the new Wallys. I hooked it up in the sticks and bricks on our main sat. It took a while for all the down load to complete then took it out to the RV with the tailgater. Took less than half the time and works fine.
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We have a 2011 sundance and our converter is mounted under the steps. For access to it I had to remove the basement wall.
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I don't believe so. I have not found a gauge that monitors the temp of the turbo. I did find a gauge that monitors the pressure of the turbo.
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I shaved about 2 1/2 inches off all around mine with my rotor tool. No longer hits my tail gate when I have to use the slider on my hitch or the bed rails when I have to make a sharp turn.
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On my 2016 ram 2500 the owners manual states a cool down period is required depending on how hard the engine has worked. Up to five minutes.
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We had the same issue. We blocked off the vent which made the thermostat work correctly but since heat rises, our bedroom was always warmer and uncomfortable for sleeping. I finally unhooked the vent in the basement, bought an adjustable louvered round vent, attached it to the duct, and use it...
I believe they are working on the trinity lane bridge this weekend. They didn't say which direction would be affected.
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On today news they we saying there will be road construction on 65 for the next 14 weekends while bridge repair is being done. The report said they will try to keep two lanes open but still to expect delays.
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Why can't someone come up with an electronic ignitor like what's on our water heaters our our gas oven in the stick and brick?
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