Thanks, Dan
There is a sticker on the entry door that says the "unit has been winterized". That valve may still be open from when we bought the rig in March of last year. This is the first time I have wanted to winterize the unit myself. Is the valve that may be open at the pump? If so...
I have a 2017 Elkridge 30RLT 5th wheel, and I have two questions:
1. I turned the pump on for the fresh water pump at the control panel, tank has 1/2 tank of water, and pump will run (I can hear it running) but nothing comes out of the faucets. Is there a valve somewhere that is closed in...
Dan,
So I called the factory and asked how far back the rear module was located from the axle, after telling the guy my exact year and model, so I could judge how far back to cut the hole in the coroplast. He said it depended on what configuration I had. . . . What??? Do they not put the...
Speaking of 6 Point Level Up Control. . . does the unit lose its 'zero calibration' if the battery is disconnected? Mine worked fine, and then I disconnected the battery for RV storage. When we took it out this weekend, after re-connecting the battery, when we got to the RV site I hit the...
I already did that. Frig is 1" away from wall. Install sheet says 2" is needed, so that's not it. I think Heartland decided to change brands and somebody didn't look at size and fit of Haier model or size of opening. . . . . there still needs to be a fix for the problem. That little "shelf"...
I have a Haier 15 cu ft. residential frig in my 2017 Elkridge 30rlt. It seems to be too large for the opening. The front leveling feet "hang off" the platform and the freezer door hits the drawer pull on the island drawer, and it dented the freezer door. I had to put a spacer under the leveling...
The front storage compartment where the batteries and hydraulic pump are located. Open the hatch and look straight up. The module is bolted to the cross member.
Update: The level controller that was hanging down with only one side fastened is fixed. Added a screw to other side. That fixed it. Zeroed the unit and it works perfectly now.
Thanks, for the help.
Randy
Perfect. Thanks.
Oh, and where is the remote one in the back located? I might as well check that one too while I'm crawling around under there. Under the carriage, or inside the RV?
I have a new Elkridge 5th wheel and the automatic leveler is sporatic on leveling. Is the "brains" module (about 5" square and 1" thick) located in the front compartment with the battery, on the roof of the compartment? I think mine is, and it is fastened to the roof with only one screw on one...
Bingo! I believe it IS on the suction side of the pump. Thanks for your help. I just noticed it today when I was seeing if "they" had the bypass valves correct from delivery. FYI: Why do they make it so darn hard to get to the water heater bypass valves. They are behind the wall. . . ...
Hate to hijack a thread, but I just looked at my new 30rlt set up and noticed there is a line with a valve on it and about 18" of open end hose on it. It looks like the same thing in the middle of this picture. What is that hose/valve for?
Randy
I just took delivery on my 2017 Elkridge 30rlt. This is our second RV, first being a Sundance bumper pull. It had the by-pass valves for winterizing the water heater. They are exposed under the pass-thru. I can not see any valves on the Elkridge. Does it have a by-pass system like the Sundance...
I just took delivery on my 2017 Elkridge 30RLT Tuesday, and I noticed a red light at one of the 15 amp fuse locations. I haven't had a chance to check it out fully. Does it just mean that fuse is blown?
Well, I tried to post but it didn't work. . . . I called factory. Seems my RV should not have an outside seal, only a 'wiper type' for the slide. Like a windshield wiper for a car. Evidently, someone added some seals to the outside flange and made a "southern engineered" seal that didn't...
My slide out leaks some when it rains. It gets on the floor inside, so, I checked all caulk around windows and trim outside and the only thing left is the seals for the slide out. The bottom is a ribbed 'D' seal with 5 ribs, and the sides and top are a short 'H' seal turned sideways, about...
Well, I can tell you it's an Accu-slide system. The adjustment procedure is in the Owners Manual Section of this forum. But, to get to the mechanism, along the top of the valence are a row of "buttons" about the size of your fingernail. They are really two piece covers that if you pop the top...
I thought about a SS fab piece, I was hoping PPL or somebody had a trim piece to take care of it. I may just get my buddy to fab a filler piece.
Thanks anyway,
The Sundance that I recently purchased has a cook top that I am going to replace. The hole in the counter is larger than any of the cook tops I have found. I have tried to find a commercially available spacer, but can't find one. What do we use as a spacer that will match the counter and not...
Whew!! It took about 4 hours to figure out how to get to the mechanism. But, once I got access it was pretty straight forward. Now my slide is nice and tight and works perfect.
Thanks, Dan
I emailed them this AM with my vin# and question. I just figured it would be easier to ask someone here. Surely someone here has had to adjust the cables. LOL
Thanks, Jim
I can fix the cables, I just need to know how to get to them. . . . . it looks like if the valence can be removed then the motor and cable assembly is accessable. I may ask the factory.
I recently bought a 2009 Sundance 280xlt and the cables for the slide out have too much slack. With the slide out "in" I can look on top at the end of the slide out and see the cables and motor. However, I can not figure out how to get too them. It looks like if I remove the "valence" on top...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.