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Ive seen many aluminum wheels that leak... you can buy crack detector fluid at a welding store and check to see if its a crack or just a pin hole.... pinholes can be repaired with silicone on the inside of the wheel, or by welding on the inside of the wheel.... and if cracked it should be...

try closing the valves on the manifold, and if one of them still comes out, its THAT cylinder that is the problem.... but otherwise it may be a piece of debris in the relief valve.. which the relief valve CAN fail as well as a cylinder can... but the shut off valves will be the best...

the problem people are encountering is that with the integrated trailer brake controllers in modern tow vehicles, if it sees a problem in the trailer brake system, it will cut the power temporarily as it notifies the driver that there is a problem.... in the mean time, there are no brakes on the...

there is no chemical other than paint to get them the color you want.... all the plastic lights, stove vent exit, ac covers, plumbing vent caps and all other plastic parts on the outside of the rv will yellow in time also, but by painting them when they're new, they stay white and dont get...

it sounds as if you need a thermostat wired to the motherboard to reverse those wires when you want it to get colder........:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::cool:

if there isnt any distinguishing features on your RV, then its just another rv similar to all the rest on the market... and as it sets there, priced at you would LIKE to get for it, its just getting older, more weathered and less valuable every day... so a lower price may be the only incentive...

the voltage will decrease as you get closer to the axles.. this is normal, as the brakes work by applying voltage and current to the brake coils, which are GROUNDED and become MAGNETS.... so depending on how many coils there are and the wire size and length of run from the tow vehicle, will...

everything concerning the problem should be found in behind the stereo head unit..... depending on the option package, it may or may not have zone switches to control different speaker zones, but they should be marked... sometimes the switches may mounted into the bottom side of the upper...

the slide seals may need to be replaced if its leaking, but dont overlook the possibility of leaking around the window frame, or at one or more of the screw heads on the sealing flange at the outer corners of the slide-out..... the screws are a common source of leakage, but a layer of eternabond...

for anyone who has a rig with hydraulic issues..... if there are continual problems with the hydraulic system, the relief valve setting should be checked, as too much pressure can cause repeated/continual and unnecessary leaks and hose failures..... the relief valve only needs to be set high...

not a 3750, but I've done it to my 3055.... and added a 3rd axle.

I believe you are correct, but fridge manufactures still offer the 12v/battery operation for those that want it.... I have no idea what heartland may offer as options in their various units, but the 3 way fridge has never been a good option in an RV...

if the system is equipped with a holding valve, it probably has a small piece of debris keeping it from closing all the way.... it only takes a piece about a quarter the size of a small grain of sand...

make sure its set to either AC, or automatic.... because if your fridge has the "battery/12v" option, and if you happen to be running it in this mode, its a very power hungry mode that is intended for short term special purpose use, such as when you NEED to have the fridge RUNNING as you are...

the galley sink in our bighorn came loose also.... it was held in with some type of sealant that was definitely not epoxy, neither was it silicone, but it was very much like cured liquid nails... it didnt have clips below to hold it, but did have some wood strips attached at the corners in a...

yes... if you dont use an inverter the batteries can be disconnected at ANY time.... while the rv is plugged into shore power, the converter will take care of the DC loads.... ALL you need to do is remove the wires from the NEG posts, as this will break the circuit while leaving no wires loose...

its NOT a felony if you remove the emissions package from your vehicle..... it IS a FELONY if you pay someone to delete it for you, OR, if they pay you to delete theirs.... it IS illegal to remove it from a vehicle used on public highways, but its not a felony.... following is the last line...

check to make sure there isnt a leak in the air intake system...... if the system leaks and doesnt allow the boost required, it can cause loss of power and lots of black smoke..... this is the most common problem when the black smoke is excessive when tuned to the low and tow settings

there are no issues with normal towing, but if the trailer being towed is un-level or looks like its unbalanced and not fitted to the tow vehicle properly, or if the trailer has a noticeable amount of sway, then they may pull one in for a safety check and check weigh you... this procedure isnt...

you have to look at the upper end of the jacks... some are mounted as high as the structure will let them be mounted, but if there are no obstructions, you should be able to reposition the jacks on the mounting base....

You need it IN THE CARB as well as the CRANKCASE or it will never work.... the carb shouldnt be removed... you are only making more work than the simple easy process that it is...

if the valves have gummed up stems, they will only be loose when warm and running.... when the engine is shut off, they will seat themselves... its the sluggishness caused by the carbon build up that doesnt allow the valves to close all the way FAST enough, while the engine is running.... once...

im guessing the engine has excessive carbon deposit on the valve stems, which can cause the valves to be sluggish in closing, and can cause odd and varying symptoms..... one of which is the carb spitting back without the engine actually back-firing, and another is the engine seeming to lug down...

there may be small wires on the light fixture, but the wiring installed by the manufacture for the electrical runs are all fairly standard size... if you ave any doubts, you could pull a fixture and see what its wired to....

anything that fills all the small voids, keeping the moisture out of the connection, will work well.... I use silicone grease, which is the same di-electric grease, but without being so expensive due to being name branded..... silicone/dielectric grease is the only grease that is actually...

yes, you can tow a side-by-side, that is loaded on a trailer (in some states).... tongue weight is the critical factor, so make sure the trailer is balanced to limit the tongue weight... and I would limit the weight of the load being towed to no more than 1500lbs... less is better.

the battery is damaged, and not taking a charge.... the converter is working when plugged in, supplying power for all loads, but it cant charge a failed battery, so when its disconnected from shore power, the battery has nothing feeding it, and as its a bad battery, it has nothing in reserve...

what does switching to setting 1 on the fridge do for you?..... are you running a residential fridge?... RV refrigerators operate on propane, but the control board uses a wee bit of energy to sense and operate the fuel valve and ignitior.... and changing the setting does hardly nothing to...

if you have the ability to know how to replace the cables, then it should be a simple task for you to get access into the area.... replacing and tensioning the cables can be a PITA, and if you dont get it right the first time, its likely that after just a few cycles, you will be replacing them...

we need more information...... is it hydraulic or electric?.... does the motor run but the unit doesnt move?.... or, is the motor not even trying, no clicking or movement at all?.... are you plugged into shore power?.... is the battery ran down too far to supply the current needed to run the...

djpjkglg1199, this is an old thread you are attempting to revive..... you can start a new one of your own and more people will see it and offer their support. but for your needs, use no less than a 50watt panel and an MPPT controller, MINIMUM..... and use an ACR unit to charge boat banks at the...

as the system works when plugged into shore power indicates that the 12v house circuits and converter is working as it should.... and it also shows that your battery circuit has failed... there are only 2 wires that could cause this, which is the positive and the negative battery wires...

how many batts do you have?.... its unlikely that 2 batteries would have gone bad at the same time, but one could have been failing long before, and now the other one has failed... its much more likely that you have corrosion on a battery terminal, or other connection... ...do you know...

you didnt say so, but you alluded to it when you asked if the blocker plate could have been left off to heat the underbelly.... if the furnace WAS in the underbelly, this may have be the case.... otherwise there is no way for the air to get from an open furnace manifold port to anywhere other...

yes... but make sure its up and pinned/locked, and sitting slightly on the locks to releave some of the tension off the lift straps, when you travel.... if anyone is going to occupy one of the bunks, it needs to be fully down and not being held suspended by the lifting straps...

no... its not normal for the furnace to be installed in the underbelly, so they will route a 2" duct down in to the area of the tanks.... if the blocker plate isnt installed, you are just blowing heat into a space that is getting many times hotter than the living space of your coach is...

use the RATING on the TIRE.... the paperwork or tag with the tire pressures that is found on the coach will be indicating the specs for the tires that were OEM on the trailer as it was delivered new... it may have different tires on it now... ALWAYS use the pressure ratings on the tire itself...

if you were to take mylar FOIL duct sealing tape and tape up all the adaptors and blocker plates so that they dont allow any air to escape thru the cracks, it makes for a 20-30% increase in heating efficieny by the furnace, as will minimize air pressure loss so it is able to blow ALL the heated...

its because you have an EPA certified tank cap... which doesnt allow the tank to vent to atmosphere... loosening the cap should prevent the "oil canning" effect from expansion/contraction...