Superglide hitches are heavy
- Thread starter porthole
- Start date
bill40
Well-known member
Great Job Duane,
When we had our superglide 25k I used a block and tackle and made a dolly out of 3/4 ply and some 2x4's and heavey duty casters, lift her out and roller in the corner till the next trip. Was very old school compared to your nice and neat setup. Thanks for the pictures.
When we had our superglide 25k I used a block and tackle and made a dolly out of 3/4 ply and some 2x4's and heavey duty casters, lift her out and roller in the corner till the next trip. Was very old school compared to your nice and neat setup. Thanks for the pictures.
nemo45
Well-known member
I bought my superslide used, but it came with a cable with loops one each end. I put the cable loops on the pins that hold the top plate on for lifting and use an elec. winch to lift it out in my daughter's garage. We're full timers don't haave a garage of our own. Frankly, I use my kid's old radio flyer wagaon to put the hitch on and roll it around. I probably should build a dolly because the wagon is old enough to be an antique. I'm sure we bought it in the early 70's.
truknutt
Committed Member
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truknutt
Committed Member
Well if I had one of those toys (on the list) I wouldn't need the garage hoist
Tractor would be far easier as the GMC just barely fits in the garage.
But the hoist works well enough, I pulled my fiberglass tonneau cover off the other day - no drama, always good.
Yeah baby, my bucket's teeth would have a field day with a fiberglass tonneau!! CHOMP, CHOMP, CHOMP!!!
P.S. It's only a toy if you never use it!! DW had a quick change of attitude when she realized how many shovels of mulch or crushed stone that little toy's bucket will gather at ONE time while she sits behind the wheel!!!
Larryheadhunter
X-Rookies Still Luving it
Hi Duane,
I have the same superglide 18K Pullrite and its so heavy I just leave it in my trunk bed. LOL
Saves money and my back. The worst part of the hitch is when u hitch up you have to hit it right on or you won't be able to hitch up. I know this as Pullrite Customer Service informed me you can only be off by a couple of degrees. They also suggested to put weight on the front jacks, slightly lifting up your truck, pull the pin, and then lift up your front jacks to separate from the capture plate. I learned that the hard way when I unhitched, moved forward and the rig came with me. UGH!
I have the same superglide 18K Pullrite and its so heavy I just leave it in my trunk bed. LOL
Saves money and my back. The worst part of the hitch is when u hitch up you have to hit it right on or you won't be able to hitch up. I know this as Pullrite Customer Service informed me you can only be off by a couple of degrees. They also suggested to put weight on the front jacks, slightly lifting up your truck, pull the pin, and then lift up your front jacks to separate from the capture plate. I learned that the hard way when I unhitched, moved forward and the rig came with me. UGH!
porthole
Retired
I have hitched - unhitched about a dozen times so far. Easy enough it seems.
Hitching up the hardest part is seeing the saddle. I now use a magnet (like the mechanic's pick up tool).
I can see the pinbox but not the saddle because of a toolbox.
After lining up the saddle I set the trailer height to be near the bottom of the saddle "ramp". This is the PullRite recommendation to prevent "high hooking".
I put the magent on the front of the saddle, centered, then just back in.
The magnet just "rotates" down out of the way. Works great.
For unhitching I back in against the chocks and set the brakes. Release the pin and then raise the trialer till I just see the saddle start to come free of the hitch. I then set it back down so it just sets in the "U" shaped support.
Move forward and all is good.
Hitching up the hardest part is seeing the saddle. I now use a magnet (like the mechanic's pick up tool).
I can see the pinbox but not the saddle because of a toolbox.
After lining up the saddle I set the trailer height to be near the bottom of the saddle "ramp". This is the PullRite recommendation to prevent "high hooking".
I put the magent on the front of the saddle, centered, then just back in.
The magnet just "rotates" down out of the way. Works great.
For unhitching I back in against the chocks and set the brakes. Release the pin and then raise the trialer till I just see the saddle start to come free of the hitch. I then set it back down so it just sets in the "U" shaped support.
Move forward and all is good.
Larryheadhunter
X-Rookies Still Luving it
Hi porthole,
When you are unhitching, you might want to drop your hydraulic or electric front jacks about halfway, pull the pin on your jacks to drop the legs (I always have a
4" x 10" x 18" long piece of wood under each jack), put some reasonable weight on them, enough to lift the truck slightly, then pull the handle to unhitch. This comes straight from a Pullrite technician. Once you pull the handle successfully, then raise the trailer until u see the ramp saddle separate slightly, then pull your truck forward. once you remove the 7 way electric cord, and emergency brake switch or you may be sorry LOL. Just me and the Pullrite technician's 2 cents. I have done this about 100 times. It's sometime very difficult to pull the hitch handle if you don't place weight on the front jacks. If you still have trouble, making sure your emergency brakes and trailer brakes are on, put the truck in neutral, and rock. Sometimes that releases the pressure against the hitch from the pin cushion.
If you have an auto slider, don't forget to spray slip plate dry graphite on the top and inner part of the slide and use white lithium grease on the pin cushion neck and the saddle ramp.
When you are unhitching, you might want to drop your hydraulic or electric front jacks about halfway, pull the pin on your jacks to drop the legs (I always have a
4" x 10" x 18" long piece of wood under each jack), put some reasonable weight on them, enough to lift the truck slightly, then pull the handle to unhitch. This comes straight from a Pullrite technician. Once you pull the handle successfully, then raise the trailer until u see the ramp saddle separate slightly, then pull your truck forward. once you remove the 7 way electric cord, and emergency brake switch or you may be sorry LOL. Just me and the Pullrite technician's 2 cents. I have done this about 100 times. It's sometime very difficult to pull the hitch handle if you don't place weight on the front jacks. If you still have trouble, making sure your emergency brakes and trailer brakes are on, put the truck in neutral, and rock. Sometimes that releases the pressure against the hitch from the pin cushion.
If you have an auto slider, don't forget to spray slip plate dry graphite on the top and inner part of the slide and use white lithium grease on the pin cushion neck and the saddle ramp.
That looks awesome Duane! Is your angle iron spanned across multiple joists or are you bolted into the same two joists?
porthole
Retired
5 rafters.
I have since added 1/2" wood spacers between the angle and the ceiling, to allow the hoist to slide left to right. Although, as mentioned in the other thread, I no longer use it for removing the hitch from the truck, as the the DRW will not fit in the garage.
JWalker
Northeast Region Director-Retired
I think it's time for a bigger garage!!
RollingHome
Well-known member
Dwane, I purchased a boom type jib crane with a 1/4" cable hoist which bolts to a 1/2" steel plate that is welded onto a 2" square solid steel bar which pins into the hitch receiver. The jib rotates. I can lift heavy "things" out of the bed, rotate the load and lower the load to ground level. I believe HF sells the a jib hoist combo, if not Northern Tool may. I made the 2" square bar long enough to allow the tail gate to be down when I do this. I like your idea too, easy and simple.
porthole
Retired
where is that this thread is useless without pictures" icon when you need it?
I have thought about the mini crane, have yet to find one that is cheap enough to make it worthwhile.
One model I saw had a plate you bolted into the rear corner of the bed, not really interested in doing that though.
I have thought about the mini crane, have yet to find one that is cheap enough to make it worthwhile.
One model I saw had a plate you bolted into the rear corner of the bed, not really interested in doing that though.
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RollingHome
Well-known member
Duane, OK, so I'm a). Lazy, b). Can't find my camera c). It's a PITA attaching pics d). All the above and... the correct answer is "d" BUT, here's a hot link for ya, HF has what you need for under $ 130.00
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-capacity-pickup-truck-crane-with-cable-winch-37555.html
Actually, if I had your credit card, I'd get it for ya from HF because that's the kinda guy I am.
Duane I had a Amish fab shop make up the 1/2 pad the hoist sits on (which slides into the hitch). They charged me about $ 50.00 a year ago, works great. Just use your imagination, if it doesn't work you did something wrong. Seriously, as long as you don't try to lift too much you should be fine. Use a solid 2" square steel extension, heavy but strong. Tell the fab shop what you're trying to do and I'm sure they will suggest something too. When you're all done post some pics on here so I know what we did.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-capacity-pickup-truck-crane-with-cable-winch-37555.html
Actually, if I had your credit card, I'd get it for ya from HF because that's the kinda guy I am.
Duane I had a Amish fab shop make up the 1/2 pad the hoist sits on (which slides into the hitch). They charged me about $ 50.00 a year ago, works great. Just use your imagination, if it doesn't work you did something wrong. Seriously, as long as you don't try to lift too much you should be fine. Use a solid 2" square steel extension, heavy but strong. Tell the fab shop what you're trying to do and I'm sure they will suggest something too. When you're all done post some pics on here so I know what we did.
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