And so it begins

porthole · Mar 31, 2015

Replaced the low profile, round seat, poor flushing, leaking ball valve, leaking water valve (only under higher pressures) toilet with a full height, elongated seat Dometic 320.

Would have been a 10 minute job had the water lines been on the same side. And surprisingly the larger toilet had fewer screws holding it down, only using the two flange bolts.

And of course now my custom made litter box no longer fits.

I also did not re-install the Blue streak thing, and most likely will not later.

edit: 1st and 3rd pictures are old toilet.

boatto5er · Mar 31, 2015

I really wanted to say, "It looks like you did a CRAPPY job". But alas, as usual, great install. Thinking about also doing this. No leaks, but I hate feeling like I'm sitting on the floor.

porthole · Mar 31, 2015

18" height alone is a good reason Gus. This bowl has a much better rim flush then the OEM toilet had.

http://www2.dometic.com/cc57f50b-fdc7-49e3-a0e3-1aff76a95624.fodoc

$215 and free shipping, no tax. Got it in a 4-5 days.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271810206349

I may move the water line over from the bottom next time I have an opportunity to open up the basement wall. But for now the litter box will just not be up against the back wall. Who knows, that could change after the first trip.

porthole · Apr 13, 2015

Was tired of the too low and squeaky, plasticky looking bathroom faucet. Finally replaced it with a taller brushed nickel version that just happened to be on sale at camping world.

porthole · Apr 13, 2015

Microwave would slide back and off the bracket that it sits on on the really big bumps.
Tried with varying amounts of foam pool noodles cut to length and jammed in between the top of the micro and the unit.
That worked for all but het most demanding roads.

It fell out once again on the trip to Myrtle Beach.
This time it got screws through the bracket into the feet.
The bracket was a little flimsy up front as well, so that got two extra screws.

Wk15 · Apr 19, 2015

porthole said:
Something that has been on my list of things to do since day one. Had one on our 2003 Sunnybrook TT. I know landmarks use to come with them as well.

Toilet spray nozzle.

There are 2 ways to do this. The sprayer is available form Dometic. There is a different valve at the top of the bowl that feeds the hose. That version is after the foot operated valve, so the nozzle only gets pressure when the foot pedal is depressed.

I decided to plumb it in before the foot valve.

Used a Pex Tee 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/8, 3 clamps, a Home Depot kitchen universal sprayer and hose. The hose end opposite of the nozzle is a straight 3/8 which nothing in the plumbing dept matched up to any fittings, so the simple way was cut the fitting off and just clamp it to the tee.

All parts under $20, 15 minutes to install and test.

Thought about adding a 1/4 turn valve, but will wait and see how this works out.

I did this mod this weekend for both of my bathrooms. Love it. Thank You.

Jimsryker · May 3, 2015

porthole said:
4 eye bolts, two lengths of chain and I have a rear patio

Duane, I have been wanting to do this very thing but seem to recall folks advising against it. I see this original post was from 2010, so I have to ask how it's held up? For us, it would almost always be two adults max, so I find it hard to believe it would be an issue for a door rated for at least 2000+ lbs. I envision mimicking the "package" cables and door hardware. I'll weld my own if need be. Can you let me/us know how it's held up and changes if any you would make? Thanks so much.

Jim
2013 3010 Cyclone

porthole · May 4, 2015

Jimsryker said:
Duane, I have been wanting to do this very thing but seem to recall folks advising against it. I see this original post was from 2010, so I have to ask how it's held up? For us, it would almost always be two adults max, so I find it hard to believe it would be an issue for a door rated for at least 2000+ lbs. I envision mimicking the "package" cables and door hardware. I'll weld my own if need be. Can you let me/us know how it's held up and changes if any you would make? Thanks so much.

Jim
2013 3010 Cyclone

Who advised against it? Same people that advise lifting a trailer with LevelUp?

When I originally did this, I put a 2x4 on end, on blocks under the ramp. I moved it around until I found the location with the door showing the least amount of flex while walking all across it.
IIRC, the ramps what are equipped with the factory option (which came out after my original posting) are 3K rated ramps. I think they were beefed up with the addition of the fencing.

But, to be clear on my use, we hardly ever use it. On the east coast there are just not that many campgrounds that have the room or the reason. By reason I mean something to look at. We have been backed up to a river a couple of times and while I deployed the patio feature, i didn't care for the "being up on a pedestal" feeling we had. So it was on the ground with the chairs and the fire. Same reasoning why we have no interest in the side patio option.

And, if you don't have shade or an awning, the black ramp gets unbearably hot.

As to how I have it done, don't think I would change anything, other then the upper attaching points on the inner frame, but it works well as is. I use chains with hooks that are set for the length I need.

BTW, the most I have had on my ramp is a 900 pound bike or the electric cart. The ramp flexes some with either, so I doubt i would ever try 2000 pounds.

porthole · May 4, 2015

Also - which ramp do you have?
We have a first year 3010 which has the 7' door. Newer, full height 3010's have an 8' door. That could make a difference.

TX_Clay · May 4, 2015

Interesting in the use factor of the rear door as a patio. We really wanted the railings and setup for our rear door when we were working out the deal for our 2015 CY3010. But it was a little over $1000 for the awning, rails and cabling. Got to thinking of all the places that we had been with our previous TH and could only recall one time we could have used it. We opted not to get it and have not regretted that decision so far.

Jimsryker · May 5, 2015

porthole said:
Also - which ramp do you have?
We have a first year 3010 which has the 7' door. Newer, full height 3010's have an 8' door. That could make a difference.

I got a 2013 Cyclone and I believe it's 8 foot. We do an annual beach trip where the beaver tail faces straight out to the pacific for the sunsets. In fact, that was where I first saw this. Some folks sitting out, watching the sun go down for happy hour. It looked pretty cool I have to admit. I've seen posts here suggesting that the frame at the attachment point would pull away or that the legs on your chairs will punch through the door. None of our chairs have straight legs like that, and while I don't have anything close to 2000 lbs., I do recall thinking it could handle a razor no problem. I rode my Can-Am DS650X up it and it weighs in at 600 dry and I'm 250. Christine is only a buck .30 so together we'd be about 380. I still think it could handle it.

I plan to check the local lot to see if they have one to compare. For me, the questions are the attachment points. On the door and the frame. The flat stock metal that traverses the two top corners is where I recall they attached to. A hole through that and hooks through the hole. I like the chain option as you could choose the link to level it just right. I'll measure my door and update you. I had hoped to have something for our Moab Rally but no time left. Definitely the beach trip however. Good points about the deck getting hot.... Did think of that. Thank you Duane! Always a wealth of info sir!

Jimsryker · May 5, 2015

TX_Clay said:
Interesting in the use factor of the rear door as a patio. We really wanted the railings and setup for our rear door when we were working out the deal for our 2015 CY3010. But it was a little over $1000 for the awning, rails and cabling. Got to thinking of all the places that we had been with our previous TH and could only recall one time we could have used it. We opted not to get it and have not regretted that decision so far.

I was a bit put off with the option as well. Did not see myself hassling with the rails 90% of the time. My only concern with just a patio is safety. If we don't pay attention, you could step off and hurt yourself. I like it's simplicity with just the chains but we'd have to not have too happy of a happy hour!

Cjackg · May 6, 2015

TX_Clay said:
Interesting in the use factor of the rear door as a patio. We really wanted the railings and setup for our rear door when we were working out the deal for our 2015 CY3010. But it was a little over $1000 for the awning, rails and cabling. Got to thinking of all the places that we had been with our previous TH and could only recall one time we could have used it. We opted not to get it and have not regretted that decision so far.

When we were ordering our 2015 Cyclone 3110, we went through the same process but decided to take a chance and get the patio option along with the rear awning and the 4-season wall... As you can see below, we have sure enjoyed it to the max during our first year...

Jimsryker · May 7, 2015

Can I impose on anybody with the patio option to take photos of the hard points? Where the cable connects to the chassis and the door? Maybe include the location in inches from the top of the door and in from the side? Any info needed to replicate it. Thank you.

Cjackg · May 7, 2015

Jimsryker said:
Can I impose on anybody with the patio option to take photos of the hard points? Where the cable connects to the chassis and the door? Maybe include the location in inches from the top of the door and in from the side? Any info needed to replicate it. Thank you.

Below are a couple of file pictures for perspective... but, I would check closely and maybe call Heartland about the structural issues as I seem to remember that the stronger door framing was only used if the Cyclone was factory ordered with the Patio option...

Jimsryker · May 8, 2015

Cjackg said:
Below are a couple of file pictures for perspective... but, I would check closely and maybe call Heartland about the structural issues as I seem to remember that the stronger door framing was only used if the Cyclone was factory ordered with the Patio option.

Thank you Cjack. I have seen this recommendation before. I'll have to find out for certain. Duane has done this as well as others so I gotta think it would work but I'll still look into it.

Click to expand...

porthole · Jun 8, 2015

I use a 1" propane adapter coming right off the main tank for the grill. Typically use two lengths of 12' grill hose extensions as well. I don't like leaving the hoses attached as I just don't trust them to not leak, so I was always connecting, disconnecting the hose whenever we used the grill.
Added two 1" propane bottle fittings, a 90 and a 1/4" ball valve to solve this.

porthole · Jun 25, 2015

Winegard Trav'ler SAT antenna installed while at Goshen.

porthole · Jun 25, 2015

Thanks to Linda and Mark Comer, we have a remembrance to our past Goldens.
This is on the main slide. Still wondering why we didn't do it on the bedroom slide, which would have been more visible.

porthole · Jun 25, 2015

Dog mod - I like clean and fresh water for the pups, especially in the hot weather. It was becoming a bit of a pain reaching under the trailer for the low point drains. These are pressurized and work great for rinsing.
I added a 90 degree brass PEX fitting and some hose and extended the hot drain out to the side of the trailer. Much easier access now.

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