And so it begins
- Thread starter porthole
- Start date
JWalker
Northeast Region Director-Retired
porthole
Retired
Should have taken a picture of Molly's fur after her "spa day" yesterday. That would answer a few of your Q's
Take most of it off and trade her in!
szewczyk_john
Well-known member
Duane, what do you mean when you say stand alone chair? Did you add it or did it come with your unit? When both boys are with us we resort to bringing in a folding camper chair to use around the galley table to play cards or games, eating, watching tv, etc.
Are those Ekornes chairs in the one picture? My dogs would go crazy if we tried to go to bed without them being in the same room. You called your cyclone's bedroom small with very little walking room before, try with 3 boxers laying around the bed. Now you know why I told you that we climb over the bed, there is no room on the floor!!!
Are those Ekornes chairs in the one picture? My dogs would go crazy if we tried to go to bed without them being in the same room. You called your cyclone's bedroom small with very little walking room before, try with 3 boxers laying around the bed. Now you know why I told you that we climb over the bed, there is no room on the floor!!!
porthole
Retired
I bought two chairs while in Elkhart when picking up the trailer. Also picked up extra fabric to make a sliding door curtain and to recover the two chairs.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=85442&viewfull=1#post85442
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=211688&viewfull=1#post211688
Yes to the Ekornes. And I believe it is obvious they live up to their name "Stressless". They originally were on our boat when we purchased it. I took them off every year when hauled for the winter. Last time they did not make it back to the boat.
If we let those two "angels" sleep in the bedroom, we would be crawling in too.
porthole
Retired
So, for some time I thought it took way to long to lower or raise the rear ramp (with the power option) or the electric jacks.
Solved the jacks by bending a leg sometime ago and just removed the whole assembly.
This week I added a circuit breaker to the equation.
I used a 5 amp marine breaker / switch and a DPDT rocker switch (not a momentary on type). DPDT = double pole double throw. This type of switch is the type used to reverse an action, like your slide and awning switches.
I removed the switch for the jacks and added the circuit breaker and new DPDT switch in it's place.
Now using the DPDT switch for directional control, flipping the breaker on, it activates the ram and runs it to the stop and as the load increases the breaker trips.
The video shows it working.
Two videos, one is for another member to see how the optional ramp lift assist works.
If you notice, you will see as the load increases and then the breaker trips, the load is released just a bit. This helps keep unnecessary pressure on the seals.
5 amp was the lowest breaker available for the on/ off type breaker.
I may experiment with a 3 amp, reset only type to see if 3 amps is sufficient to raise the door.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--ce-world-circuit-breakers--P002413698
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-...set-only-thermal-circuit-breakers--P006557607
Solved the jacks by bending a leg sometime ago and just removed the whole assembly.
This week I added a circuit breaker to the equation.
I used a 5 amp marine breaker / switch and a DPDT rocker switch (not a momentary on type). DPDT = double pole double throw. This type of switch is the type used to reverse an action, like your slide and awning switches.
I removed the switch for the jacks and added the circuit breaker and new DPDT switch in it's place.
Now using the DPDT switch for directional control, flipping the breaker on, it activates the ram and runs it to the stop and as the load increases the breaker trips.
The video shows it working.
Two videos, one is for another member to see how the optional ramp lift assist works.
If you notice, you will see as the load increases and then the breaker trips, the load is released just a bit. This helps keep unnecessary pressure on the seals.
5 amp was the lowest breaker available for the on/ off type breaker.
I may experiment with a 3 amp, reset only type to see if 3 amps is sufficient to raise the door.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--ce-world-circuit-breakers--P002413698
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-...set-only-thermal-circuit-breakers--P006557607
CarterKraft
Well-known member
Good thinking on the circuit breaker. Have you thought about using a contact switch on the door or actuator to break the circuit.
If combined with the breaker you would have double protection against fouling something up.
If combined with the breaker you would have double protection against fouling something up.
porthole
Retired
Sooooo, I finally got tired of twisting and turning and swinging the TV out of it's cave.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=143906&viewfull=1#post143906
Found after 3 attempts, a flat panel mount that would work.
I wanted a wall bracket that was more then the single horizontal bar that many are today.
This bracket fit the bill. I used 3M double stick body side molding tape on the top and bottom cross pieces.
This mount also had a standard profile of 1.9", which is good since the window trim is about 2" thick.
Self tappers were used to secure the bracket to the wall.
Where you see the 5 hex heads, on the inside is an aluminum crossmember.
The small allen head screw is a stopper. Because this TV has a 100 x 100 VESA mount, the support brackets are fairly close (4"), so the TV can slide all but 4" to either end.
Because of the angled roof the mount allowed the TV to be hooked on the rearward portion and slid to center, the stopper keeps it from moving any further in a "quick stop".
The plastic wire mold was attached with 3M double stick.
The hole was made with a spade bit and was considerably larger then the actual wire mold. The TV power cord is a standard computer type.
The trim was easy enough to cut to get a tight fit around the wire mold.
Not shown is the transport strap, which attaches to the silver rings on either end of the bracket.
Note: I believe after January 2010 the area above the window has a backing board for TV mounting.
DVD player and the DirecTV Genie client stay in the cabinet.
We hardly ever use the DVD. But I left the door on the hinge as in the previous post so that it could still be easily used without the left door interfering. The Genie client is RF, so it can remain hidden.
Our trailer also has the security camera, which is the yellow tipped cord visible.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=143906&viewfull=1#post143906
Found after 3 attempts, a flat panel mount that would work.
I wanted a wall bracket that was more then the single horizontal bar that many are today.
This bracket fit the bill. I used 3M double stick body side molding tape on the top and bottom cross pieces.
This mount also had a standard profile of 1.9", which is good since the window trim is about 2" thick.
Self tappers were used to secure the bracket to the wall.
Where you see the 5 hex heads, on the inside is an aluminum crossmember.
The small allen head screw is a stopper. Because this TV has a 100 x 100 VESA mount, the support brackets are fairly close (4"), so the TV can slide all but 4" to either end.
Because of the angled roof the mount allowed the TV to be hooked on the rearward portion and slid to center, the stopper keeps it from moving any further in a "quick stop".
The plastic wire mold was attached with 3M double stick.
The hole was made with a spade bit and was considerably larger then the actual wire mold. The TV power cord is a standard computer type.
The trim was easy enough to cut to get a tight fit around the wire mold.
Not shown is the transport strap, which attaches to the silver rings on either end of the bracket.
Note: I believe after January 2010 the area above the window has a backing board for TV mounting.
DVD player and the DirecTV Genie client stay in the cabinet.
We hardly ever use the DVD. But I left the door on the hinge as in the previous post so that it could still be easily used without the left door interfering. The Genie client is RF, so it can remain hidden.
Our trailer also has the security camera, which is the yellow tipped cord visible.
Attachments
szewczyk_john
Well-known member
Duane, as you know we have the same unit, with mine being badged as a Road Warrior. I have never had a TV hooked up to the bedroom connection or in the garage for that matter, but I really like the idea of using that bedroom cabinet for the TV hookups. We have always used that cabinet for our race scanners, blankets, and towels but that might be changing. What I hate about our entertainment wall is that there is no place for a DVD, Blu Ray, or satellite receiver to fit. We use a folding table set up under the TV for these items. Thinking about your modification to the bedroom cabinet got me thinking about this. We can run the line we use for satellite in from our UDC area to the bedroom cabinet, and then out to any or all TV connections in the unit that we want to use. This would allow us to keep the receiver hidden in the bedroom. My dish network remotes are radio frequency and do not need a clear sight line so it should work thru the cabinet door. This would clean up the living room area for me. Did you modify your door with the bat wing styling? Mine is a regular 2 door cabinet with both doors swinging outward but your bat wing door works better for this mod and also keeps the door out of the middle of the room and away from the sliding doors.
Your 4 wires going to the mount are cable, RCA, HDMI, and power plug correct? So you would only use the cable connection in the ceiling for campground cable or roof antenna, right?
We do not watch that much TV so I might put this one on the back burner for now but you really gave me something to think about with this one. Very well thought out and executed neatly.
Your 4 wires going to the mount are cable, RCA, HDMI, and power plug correct? So you would only use the cable connection in the ceiling for campground cable or roof antenna, right?
We do not watch that much TV so I might put this one on the back burner for now but you really gave me something to think about with this one. Very well thought out and executed neatly.
porthole
Retired
I did have the TV in the garage, but after a year or two of never turning it on I removed it.
My trailer came with the TV in that cabinet from the factory, so it never had shelves and had the backer board. But it was a small 17" model that was included with the security cam package.
The main TV has just enough room for the smaller type DVD player to fit on the shelf. But we hardly ever use this DVD either.
My main DirecTV DVR is behind the TV.
The Direct receiver would not fit in our Bedroom cabinet unless I stood it vertical.
Yes to the door, stainless piano hinge I had in the basement.
Removed the old hinges from the left door, folded the mounting tab over and left them on the face frame.
Added the piano hinge and then moved one of the catches over to just to the right of center at the top. This keeps the center "swing" joint tight to the cabinet when closed.
Moved teh other catch to catch the now left edge of the swing door
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=143906&viewfull=1#post143906
Problem with our trailers is RV'ers do not design or build them, and the builders don't use them, so they never give thought to the uselessness of 7" deep cabinets.
I rewired all the SAT connections.
I don't know how the Dish has to be setup, but for Direct my feed comes into the UDC and then behind the wall is the power supply and splitter (special type needed for Direct).
Feeds go to LR, BR and door side of the basement. Didn't bother with the garage.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=329207&viewfull=1#post329207
Correct.
This TV only has one HDMI input, so to use the DVD would require moving the cable from the Genie client to the DVD
At home, Deb has worn out a couple of the bedroom TV's. Her back doesn't allow sitting, so it is either standing or laying down for the most part.
Besides, aren't TV's supposed to be night lights?
porthole
Retired
Which cabinet?
recumbent615
Founding MA Chapter Leader-retired
I believe you are referring to the household type switch - on the entertainment center ( also where all of the other controls are ). that is the Electric Water heater on the Cyclone.
porthole
Retired
If you are referring to the red switch in this pic, it is the hot water heater 110 volt on off switch.
https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=135047&viewfull=1#post135047
