And so it begins

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

OEFVET said:

Duane,

How is the wifi range extender working? I am very interested in this mod.

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Works great in my driveway, at least the inside router does. As of now I still have the roof top router not broadcasting, although it is receiving the house's wifi signal.

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BLHFUN said:

Yes please. I'll take two! Any chance you can get a little more granular on the Parts when you take the Video? We drive at night as well.. This is an excellent idea.

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Sorry Bart - I originally started playing with this a couple years ago, has been sitting in my tool box. And I did not take pictures before the shrink wrap.
But I will look to see if I kept the notes in my tool box.

This might have been the thread from where i got the idea.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=91691

Since I started this I have found plenty of 12 volt timers, although nothing I tried was suitable for what I wanted.
The setup above works pretty good as it comes on with the directionals and off when I turn them off after a 2 second delay.

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

OEFVET said:

Duane,

How is the wifi range extender working? I am very interested in this mod.

Click to expand...

Update Chris.

I just switched my laptop over to the Cyclone wifi network.

My laptop, which I use as a desktop when home sits in my office and is connected directly to the house's router.
The laptop wifi page shows 8 connections, 7 of which are originating in our house and 3 of which are 5 ghz connections.
Our house is a 2200 square foot ranch plus an attached garage. My office is one of the far bedrooms. So the wifi signal from the trailer's inside router is traveling 100+ feet through the house and garage (with double skinned 2" aluminum doors).

The signal is as strong as every other connection in the house.

The control panel for the trailer router currently shows 13 wifi networks, but none are 5G as the router is 2.4 ghz only. So in essence, the Cyclone router is seeing 8 more connections then my lap top does in the office.

Switching to see the roof top router's control panel, which is where i am picking up the house wifi signal, the router currently sees 31 networks in my neighborhood, non of which are 5G for the same above reason.

So, at first glance I would have to say it is doing it's job.

The upcoming trip will be a good test.

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

Duane,

as they say Great minds think Alike! I too just installed the Wifi Ranger, but I opted for the version that mounts to the Bat-wing ( since I still have one ) and I ran the network cable down the same hole as the coax for the TV. now of course to do that I needed to cut the plug off the end of the cable. I then fished the network cable in the ceiling over to the existing holes in the ceiling behind the entertainment center and then fed the cable into the distribution area behind the TV. I terminated the severed cable in a network jack and use a short patch cable to connect to the internal router. I surprised my self and was able to get that all done in a matter of 4 hours.

I went from picking up just 6 wifi signals to seeing over 40 ( most are very weak ) but visible to the wifiRanger.

This will be a huge improvement over my standard operation, and nearly as important as the extra range is the stable network to allow for my wifi printer to not have to be connected to another host network at every campground I get to.

The other feature I can not wait to test is the auto switching - the campground I stay at in DC has several different AP SSIDs that sometimes gets overloaded so I have had to manually switch to another - this should do that for me.

See you in 3 weeks

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=442485&viewfull=1#post442485

porthole said:

Years ago we had an aerial truck, an Oskosh Snorkel, that had a side light mounted over the rear tandems that only came on with the right or left turn signals. It was great for seeing the tire location relative to obstructions.

One night an inattentive car driver took out the light on the right side. The township management thought the best use of the insurance money was to put it in the general fund and not repair the fire truck.

I have missed that light for 20 years .....

Always thought it would be really helpful on the Cyclone, since we do travel at night. The last 2 miles to our house have several turns that would really benefit from an "over the wheel light" at night.

I tried a couple different eBay timers with no luck.

This control was made up from ideas on the 12 volt forum.

Underneath all the shrink tubing is a standard automotive type relay, a diode, some resistors and a couple of capacitors.

The control is fed B+ from the side marker light, so it will only activate if I have the lights on.

The signal to activate is received from the right side turn signal light I added some time ago.

If the side lights are on and the turn signal activated, 12 volts is sent to the relay and capacitors. The capacitors store energy for a brief amount of time (based on the load they are supplying e.g. the LED).

The capacitors activate the relay, which in turns activates the light.

Each time the turn signal blinks it recharges the capacitor, kind of like a titled cup under a faucet. Water is always running out, but the faucet keeps it flowing.
Once the turn signal feed stops the capacitors bleed off and the light goes out.

It took a bit of trial and error to get the right size capacitors, resistors and diodes as well as a light that was bright enough but did not drain the storage to quickly.
The LED is a marine grade ($$$) very bright item.

Testing works pretty good, the light stays on for about 1-2 seconds after the signal goes out.
I'll try and do a video when we hook up for a trip this week.

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I added a video. The effect isn't what what the eye sees and my first road test at night was interrupted by a wheel failure.

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

Another back burner project.
Our dinette has the drawers on slides, and the drawers are almost the full length of the bench. I kept a plastic bin in the drawer that was almost the right size to slide on the sides, but not quite.
Two pieces of 1/2" marine Starboard and the bin slides nice and easy now, and has about 3" underneath for not often needed items.

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

Didn't do anything new, just making a post so my thread does not get locked.

Yesterday I went to do my monthly plug in the trailer and check everything. Batteries are stone dead. I guess they have run their course at 5 years..........

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

I left my batteries in the RV and turned them off. I guess I guess I should go t take them out and put them on the charger.

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

porthole said:

Didn't do anything new, just making a post so my thread so my not get locked.

Yesterday I went to do my monthly plug in the trailer and check everything. Batteries are stone dead. I guess they have run their course at 5 years..........

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I'd say 5 years is good for seasonal use !


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Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

travelin2 said:

I'd say 5 years is good for seasonal use !


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Yeah, probably so. Today I will see if leaving the charger on over night gives them enough juice to do the generator check.

I knew last season they were starting to get a bit weak, so I was kind of expecting it. Although I most likely will not be putting the 6 volt AGM's I put in originally. The price has more then tripled.

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

So, mod to come shortly. Our main AC died last fall, it was running but I didn't hear the compressor really loading up. Pulled the shroud and found the pan full of oil.
Just ordered a new style Dometic Brisk Air II, another heat strip and the Comfort Control Center II T-stat.

Looks like I finally get my digital t-stat

I got tired of hooking this filter up every time we connected to city water. And with the heavy chlorine in the water at the Lancaster campout, and seeing what Kevin did with his Cyclone, I finally boxed in the left side of the basement wall and made a door to access the plumbing.

Originally Posted by porthole
Water filter snaps on to to machine screws

https://heartlandowners.org/show...l=1#post247364

I used the existing panel for the door, had a stainless piano hinge sitting in the basement, picked up a marine cabin door latch and went to work.
The right side basement wall panel had to be shortened about 3/4" as well.
I got a double filter assembly off of evilbay for $47, with one set of filters (and they don't fit exactly right). Bunch of PEX fittings and some new PEX line too.
The filler panel was painted satin black until I get some carpet that matches.

The extra vertical line by the UDC is for a pressure gauge when they show up from Amazon.

Hopefully this works as well as it looks.

Finished up my water filters and added inlet & outlet filter pressure gauges.

Gauges I ordered were not exactly what I received, but they are in just the same. At least they read almost the same when no water is flowing. The gauges are not even because they are in existing locations that already had some type of hole through the wall. The chrome handles are drain valves for the gauge lines (low points).

My one line between the two 1/4 turn valves ended up being a little too long and initially did not bother me, but the more that I look at the ........

Looks good Duane

good mod. I think you'll like the hinged panel especially if you are in there a lot. Not so much if you have to keep moving everything though.

Looking good Duane!

I'm using 3 gauges (incoming, post filters, post pump). I used 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/4" branch Tees to feed the gauges. Mounted them in my UDC. Thanks for sharing your mod.

Nice looking mod Duane. We were thinking of doing this when I had the basement walls off but we just do not use the city water inlet that much. Too many boon docking NASCAR trips. I do like the finished product a lot.

Re: And so it begins - mods to personalize the rig

porthole said:

So, mod to come shortly. Our main AC died last fall, it was running but I didn't hear the compressor really loading up. Pulled the shroud and found the pan full of oil.
Just ordered a new style Dometic Brisk Air II, another heat strip and the Comfort Control Center II T-stat.

Looks like I finally get my digital t-stat

View attachment 44653

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Have you determined what is required to install the CCII thermostat. I don't care for the single zone LCD stat and will be switching to something different soon.

Bones said:

good mod. I think you'll like the hinged panel especially if you are in there a lot. Not so much if you have to keep moving everything though.

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It will be OK. Been thinking of doing it for several years. I don't go in much because it was a pain to take the panel off. Now I would probably just take a look once a month or so.

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Local box stores only had the 1/2 3/8 1/2 tees. Thought about it. The 1/4" PEX is real flexible.
I looked at the same gauges you have, but decided to go with rear intake and 1.5" gauges.
Curious to see how consistent these are.

Previously I had bought 5 gauges, 3 from one vendor and 2 from another. All the same gauges and all read different.
Bought 3 this time. Pre and post filter and one for the hydrant pressure reducer.

Where is the third drain?

jbeletti said:

Looking good Duane!

I'm using 3 gauges (incoming, post filters, post pump). I used 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/4" branch Tees to feed the gauges. Mounted them in my UDC. Thanks for sharing your mod.

View attachment 44763

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Hey John, I use the house water all the time, so this was just a matter of time.
Still going to Dover?

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CarterKraft said:

Have you determined what is required to install the CCII thermostat. I don't care for the single zone LCD stat and will be switching to something different soon.

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No, don't have it yet, didn't even get a delivery date yet.

porthole said:

...Where is the third drain?...

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They're actually water test ports. A couple days into each camping location, I run a couple of cups of water out each valve, one at a time, then fill a cup with an inch of water and test TDS (total dissolved solids) and pH. I take a picture of the readings, then repeat with the other valve. Then I record my readings, with date and location in a spreadsheet Michael Kidd and I share on Google Docs.

Soon, I'll stop taking TDS readings with my hand tester and use the inline testing I have installed. Just need to get in there with a label maker and mark my meters as to at what point they are testing! I bought two, dual channel meters. Overkill but they were cheap. Once I start using them and trusting them, I will just take a pH reading in the kitchen at the tap, a few days into camping (to make sure I turn the water tank over at least once).

I test for a couple reasons...

1. To know that my RO system is still functioning
2. To know that my pH is still in an acceptable range (7 to 8)

Finished up my water filters and added inlet & outlet filter pressure gauges.

Gauges I ordered were not exactly what I received, but they are in just the same. At least they read almost the same when no water is flowing. The gauges are not even because they are in existing locations that already had some type of hole through the wall. The chrome handles are drain valves for the gauge lines (low points).

My one line between the two 1/4 turn valves ended up being a little too long and initially did not bother me, but the more that I look at the ........

Half trailer mod, half trailer repair.

While we were at the Dover race, my new Brisk Air II Dometic AC unit, ducted grill kit, heat strip and CCC2 t-stat was delivered.
I managed to get the rooftop unit replaced before leaving for the PA rally and "attempted" to finish the install.
Turns out the CCC2 multi zone thermostat requires a specific additional controller, no matter what the people at PPL RV parts tell you.

That controller was delivered to the PA Rally campground and I was able to finish the job before two days of rain. The modification part is going to the digital thermostat. If you have heat strips the $20 digital thermostat mod does not work.

The new AC is well insulated with form fitting styrofoam covers.
#1 top insulation cover off
#2 new heat strip
#3 Heat strip is mounted to the evaporator, so all air always blows over the heat strip
#4 New style controller mounts up here instead of just above the ducted grill

#5 The insulation almost snaps on, an interference fit
#6 Wires are no longer buried under the covers, they get taped in place here
#7 & 8 the Brisk Air II is 4-6 inches shorter and looks higher, will have to do a new trailer height measurement now.

#9 Old AC and thermostat had a 6 wire cable connecting them. Wires under screws at the t-stat and butt connectors up in the roof unit.
#10 The CCC2 t-stat uses a 4 wire phone wire. I picked up a double phone jack wall plate locally and used those for the new interface. The new T-stat also requires a much bigger hole for the mounting plate
#11 Up and running


This thermostat adds several options over the single zone version, even if only using as a single zone. The two main features are an "auto mode" that will switch between AC and heat as needed, although it takes the furnace as priority then the heat strip and a 3 speed fan mode, that also works in an auto mode.

The 3 speeds seem to be a high, higher and highest. It certainly does not come down to an "idle speed"
Noise seems to be a bit more then our original unit, even at the lowest speed. But, the trailer doesn't rumble anymore when the compressor kicks in.

The heat strip worked great for the remainder of the rally weekend.