Totally new to RVing -- learning, but have some newbie questions.

Howdy all…

Just a little background… I’m looking to purchase a BH 3670RL this spring to live in full time. For the most part, it won’t be gong anywhere unless I don’t like where I’m living, it's in for repairs, I change jobs, or something like that.

I have some newbie questions that I’m going to ball together in one thread:

1—Do I need a deep cycle battery if I’m going to live in my 5th wheel full time? Do you have to have one to complete your 12V system? If I’m plugged into power 100% of the time is that bad for them? In that circumstance, what is the best way to maintain them?

2—I was watching some youtube videos about RVs and they were talking about horrid fumes coming up from the toilet’s black tank. Is that a pretty standard problem? Doesn’t the toilet flap kinda seal things? Do you put any water in the toilet browl when you’re not using it? And if so, wouldn’t that keep it sealed from fumes from the black tank?

3—Speaking of fumes… there’s multiple vids of people emptying their black tank and most of them look like they want to puke when doing it (from the smell). Is it really that bad? Is there any way to make it better, for example, emptying every two or three days?

4—Do you really need the special chemicals and special toilet paper if you empty every two or three days? What’s the best chemicals?

5--I saw this video where you can get a better breather for your black tank vent, on the roof. Link here. They claimed that you didn’t need special chemicals because more oxygen gets to the tank that way. They also claimed it stopped the smells coming up through the toilet. Are these valid claims, or are they just trying to sell ya something that you don’t need?

6—What kind of sewer hose do I need to get to make things easy? I’d imagine that there are better kits out there to make life easier…. Can someone give some suggestions please?

7—Is it OK to leave the sewer hose/waste drain connected all the time? I wouldn’t need to insulate it in the winter, would I? I mean, it’s gong to be empty/drained just sitting there, so there shouldn’t be much, if anything, inside it to freeze. Right?

8—When flushing the black water tank, do you just take the fresh water hose off and connect it to the black water flush connection? Or is the black water flush connection contaminated with bacteria, germs, and parasites that will contaminate your fresh-water hose?

9—How full OR how often should one ideally get their black water tank before flushing (if there is an ideal)? I know you’re not suppose to leave it open all the time.

10—I still have not figured out what SOB stands for. Is it a brand?

11—I was looking into maintenance issues in regards to the fridge, furnace, and water heater, but it is hard to tell HOW MUCH I’ll need to do since (a) I’ll be plugged in all the time (on electric, except for the furnace, I suppose), and (b) using this stuff every day. For example, would I replace the anode rod in the water heater once a year still? And flush/drain it once a year? Or more often since I’m in it full time? That kind of thing… it’s hard to get an idea on maintenance since I’ll be full timing.

12—Since my 5th wheel won’t be moving except every once in a while, would it be best to just take the wheels/tires off? This was mentioned as part of another thread I was on, but there were mixed opinions if it is OK to not move the RV for extended periods of time.


MUCH THANKS for all the help!!!

-Nathan

Hi Natesi, these are my opinion and mine only... I'm sure you will get more.

1—Do I need a deep cycle battery if I’m going to live in my 5th wheel full time? Do you have to have one to complete your 12V system? If I’m plugged into power 100% of the time is that bad for them? In that circumstance, what is the best way to maintain them?

NO. you do not need a deep cycle battery, but I would recommend you check the water level at least every 30 days.

2—I was watching some youtube videos about RVs and they were talking about horrid fumes coming up from the toilet’s black tank. Is that a pretty standard problem? Doesn’t the toilet flap kinda seal things? Do you put any water in the toilet browl when you’re not using it? And if so, wouldn’t that keep it sealed from fumes from the black tank?

With a properly operating toilet you will not get any bad fumes.

3—Speaking of fumes… there’s multiple vids of people emptying their black tank and most of them look like they want to puke when doing it (from the smell). Is it really that bad? Is there any way to make it better, for example, emptying every two or three days?

No, your not going to get a lot of smell. It will smell if you spill some,,, not likely to happen if your careful.

4—Do you really need the special chemicals and special toilet paper if you empty every two or three days? What’s the best chemicals?

We do not use special paper, but we do use Potty Toddy Tablets from Camping World. And there are a lot of others out there that work,, it just so happens we like these, very good, one tablet, no liquid or powder to measure and no smell, or very rarely,,, no more than with any of the others.

5--I saw this video where you can get a better breather for your black tank vent, on the roof. Link here. They claimed that you didn’t need special chemicals because more oxygen gets to the tank that way. They also claimed it stopped the smells coming up through the toilet. Are these valid claims, or are they just trying to sell ya something that you don’t need?

I have never found the need for one, some have.

6—What kind of sewer hose do I need to get to make things easy? I’d imagine that there are better kits out there to make life easier…. Can someone give some suggestions please?

I would buy a good one. Your dealer will give you a starter kit.. but go and buy a good heavy duty hose kit.

7—Is it OK to leave the sewer hose/waste drain connected all the time? I wouldn’t need to insulate it in the winter, would I? I mean, it’s gong to be empty/drained just sitting there, so there shouldn’t be much, if anything, inside it to freeze. Right?

I can see no problem with it.

8—When flushing the black water tank, do you just take the fresh water hose off and connect it to the black water flush connection? Or is the black water flush connection contaminated with bacteria, germs, and parasites that will contaminate your fresh-water hose?

The black water tank flusher has a backflow preventer valve in the line. It is not supposed to let water flow backwards into the water hose or city (park) water system.

9—How full OR how often should one ideally get their black water tank before flushing (if there is an ideal)? I know you’re not suppose to leave it open all the time.

Wait till it is 2/3 to 3/4 full,,, you pot will start burping, then it is time to empty.

10—I still have not figured out what SOB stands for. Is it a brand?

Yep... Some Other Brand....

11—I was looking into maintenance issues in regards to the fridge, furnace, and water heater, but it is hard to tell HOW MUCH I’ll need to do since (a) I’ll be plugged in all the time (on electric, except for the furnace, I suppose), and (b) using this stuff every day. For example, would I replace the anode rod in the water heater once a year still? And flush/drain it once a year? Or more often since I’m in it full time? That kind of thing… it’s hard to get an idea on maintenance since I’ll be full timing.

I would do in it about 6 months to check the anode rod and then kinda make a decision from there. Different waters will use the rod faster, so I would check it in about 6 months and flush the heater... can't hurt anything and you never know what you might get out of your heater.

12—Since my 5th wheel won’t be moving except every once in a while, would it be best to just take the wheels/tires off? This was mentioned as part of another thread I was on, but there were mixed opinions if it is OK to not move the RV for extended periods of time.

Here again.. what is extended time??? lots of opinions here and things to do..

These are my opinions and mine only. I am sure you will get a few more... I would add that I would get a water filtration system and put in line before it gets to the trailer and water heater. Nothing expensive, but some type of filter.

Jim M

sob

Some other brand

As another fulltimer I add my thoughts:

1—Do I need a deep cycle battery if I’m going to live in my 5th wheel full time? Do you have to have one to complete your 12V system? If I’m plugged into power 100% of the time is that bad for them? In that circumstance, what is the best way to maintain them?

We use 2 standard RV/marine 12 batteries, We installe the "Charge wizard module" available from Progressive Dynamics for about $10 and it let you monitor the status of the converter. I check the water every couple months, but have never had to add any water for the last year. The charge wizard has a computerized maintince function to de-sulfate the plates.

2—I was watching some youtube videos about RVs and they were talking about horrid fumes coming up from the toilet’s black tank. Is that a pretty standard problem? Doesn’t the toilet flap kinda seal things? Do you put any water in the toilet browl when you’re not using it? And if so, wouldn’t that keep it sealed from fumes from the black tank?

If the toilet seal is working then there is no odor. We use the orange drop in packets.

3—Speaking of fumes… there’s multiple vids of people emptying their black tank and most of them look like they want to puke when doing it (from the smell). Is it really that bad? Is there any way to make it better, for example, emptying every two or three days?

Again, if work properly there are very few odors or fumes. We only dup the black tank every 7-10 days.

4—Do you really need the special chemicals and special toilet paper if you empty every two or three days? What’s the best chemicals?

We use one Orange Drop in packet with every tank. We also use Charmin Basic toilet paper. one year down and the sensors still work perfect. I have a good routine that takes about 20 minutes to drain and flush the tank, but it works for us.

5--I saw this video where you can get a better breather for your black tank vent, on the roof. Link here. They claimed that you didn’t need special chemicals because more oxygen gets to the tank that way. They also claimed it stopped the smells coming up through the toilet. Are these valid claims, or are they just trying to sell ya something that you don’t need?

Seen them, but have not found a need for one.

6—What kind of sewer hose do I need to get to make things easy? I’d imagine that there are better kits out there to make life easier…. Can someone give some suggestions please?

You get what you pay for, we use the bright red one with the black swivel ends. I really like the hose with the swivel end and O-ring seals at each connection. Most campgorunds are requiring a 4-in-1 elbow adapter to keep everything sealed up real nice.

7—Is it OK to leave the sewer hose/waste drain connected all the time? I wouldn’t need to insulate it in the winter, would I? I mean, it’s gong to be empty/drained just sitting there, so there shouldn’t be much, if anything, inside it to freeze. Right?

Yes, we leave it connected all the time and both grey tanks open all the time, We flood the bath room the second week we had our unit when the washer was running its drain cycle into a closed tank. Lesson learned. It is currently in the 20's and no problem with ice in sewer drain as long as it is sopported and a downhill slpoe all the way to the sewer inlet.

8—When flushing the black water tank, do you just take the fresh water hose off and connect it to the black water flush connection? Or is the black water flush connection contaminated with bacteria, germs, and parasites that will contaminate your fresh-water hose?

I installed a manifold for our water system, so I just turn a valve to start and stop the tank flush, This way I only have to connect one hose each time we setup. The plastic connection wear/strip out with a lot of use, so this reduces how often we have to connect and disconnect hoses.

9—How full OR how often should one ideally get their black water tank before flushing (if there is an ideal)? I know you’re not suppose to leave it open all the time.

The two of us can go 7-10 days between dumps, by the tenth day the is a bit of odor when flushing the toilet and it might burp, so I try to empty once a week on the same day, just for good measure.

10—I still have not figured out what SOB stands for. Is it a brand?

Son of a b**** no really just, some other brand

11—I was looking into maintenance issues in regards to the fridge, furnace, and water heater, but it is hard to tell HOW MUCH I’ll need to do since (a) I’ll be plugged in all the time (on electric, except for the furnace, I suppose), and (b) using this stuff every day. For example, would I replace the anode rod in the water heater once a year still? And flush/drain it once a year? Or more often since I’m in it full time? That kind of thing… it’s hard to get an idea on maintenance since I’ll be full timing.

We replaced the rod after one year, but it was still in pretty good condition, it is recomented that you drain and flush the water heater every three months. Our furnance and fridge have not required any maintance. A lot of the water issues depend on the water supply.

12—Since my 5th wheel won’t be moving except every once in a while, would it be best to just take the wheels/tires off? This was mentioned as part of another thread I was on, but there were mixed opinions if it is OK to not move the RV for extended periods of time.

Many parks, Including the one we are currently at DO NOT allow the trailer to be on jack stands with the wheels off. They do not like the permante resident look that the tireless trailer envokes. We might jack up the wheels and spin them a bit every few months. This is the first Campgroung we will be staying at longer than three months.

Take care and good luck.

I just wanted to add to #6 and #8. Get a clear piece that goes on the trailer end of your drain hose so you can tell when the drainage runs clear and a donut or the screw-in adapter that goes on the other end of your hose so you can make an air tight seal when dumping. I use a Y-fitting with shut offs when I hook up to campground water and run a white hose to the fresh or city water and a different colored hose to the black tank flush. Even at that there is no guarantee that all campground water is fit to drink so we drink bottled water.--Tom

I agree with Tom except Jim B got me to buy a double water filter so that all water going into the rig at all including the fresh water tank has a sediment filter and a charcoal filter from the water filter store online. Replacements can be gotten at Walmart. Quick disconnects are a great addition as well.

Thanks for the input everyone -- some great ideas too!

Does the RV center have the clear pipe and "doughnut" or screw-in adapter that I will need for the drain-hose mod? Or is that

How do you jack up the wheels on a 5th wheel? Like with a normal automotive jack? Or do you use the leveling jacks at each end of the trailer? Guess I should know this in case I ever need to change a flat anyway.

Thanks,

-nathan

We don't full-time, but left ours on a seasonal site from early May to late September. We would go up for a week or two, come home for a few days or so, and go back up. We were hooked up to shore power the entire time and left the refer running even when we were not there. Left the Fantastic Fan set for 85F to keep it from getting too hot in there, too. The sewer hose remained connected all summer, but we shut off the water and depressurized the system (opened a faucet) when we left. Also turned off the water heater (only ran it on electric). The slides had toppers and were left extended, too. As for the tires, we did not remove them and they sat on dirt/sand for the summer. At most, they lost 5 - 7 lbs. pressure over the summer. In our black tank, I put a cup of Calgon powder dissolved in a couple gallons of water after each dumping. Occasionally, I used a bottle of Aqua-Chem because I had two cartons of the stuff before I hit on the Calgon idea. When I had the rig winterized, the anode rod only had minor erosion on it, so it's good for next season. We also have a two-filter water purification system, which remained under the trailer in a plastic tote the whole season, as well. I made a manifold for the UDC, with hookup for city water, black tank flush, and a short utility hose (better than the shower hose). When I washed the trailer, on site, I did connect a gated wye to the CG spigot.

Almost forgot, on the sewer hose, you get what you pay for. Look for one with the thickest vinyl (mils). If you go cheap, you may end up with a nasty lawn sprinkler. Then you'll have the smell you've heard tell about.

Does the RV center have the clear pipe and "doughnut" or screw-in adapter that I will need for the drain-hose mod? Or is that

Camping World and several others have the clear elbows, Any place even Wal-mart should have the 4-in-1 screw in adapters as more and more campgrounds do not allow the simple foam "doughnuts" ant more.

How do you jack up the wheels on a 5th wheel? Like with a normal automotive jack? Or do you use the leveling jacks at each end of the trailer? Guess I should know this in case I ever need to change a flat anyway.

You have to use a large heavy duty automotive jack or drive one wheel up on a large block to life the other tire off the ground. The leveling jack are not to be used to lift the trailer off the ground.

Nathan, NEVER... EVER .....JACK UP YOUR COACH BY THE AXLES. Jack it up by the frame. Get a 12 TN bottle jack and some 2X12 short pieces of lumber to put under the jack. Never jack up the coach without wheel chocks in place. If you are parked on dirt for any length of time, I would put some wood under the tires. I have our BH hooked to 110V all the time. Get GOOD drain hoses, a clear 30* fitting, and water filters. Depending on the water pressure at the camp site, you will need a pressure regulator. I would not run more that 55# into the coach. Check out this web-site. http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/PressureRegulators.htm Bob

For long term, you might want to consider 3" PVC for you sewer drain. Get rubber couplings, 90, 4"-3" reducer.

htneighbors said:

For long term, you might want to consider 3" PVC for you sewer drain. Get rubber couplings, 90, 4"-3" reducer.

Click to expand...

HOLY COW -- sweet setup!

How come there are two inlets into your drain? One is the waste pipe, but what is the other?

Where did you get those stands? What are they?

The skirting looks nice. Is the idea that it pays for itself in heat savings?

I think his rig has two heads. The rubber couplings I believe are made by fernco and are called fernco couplings. Hope this helps.

Yes, I have 2 dump locations. The main one up towards the front and the rear one from the garage. I just connect them together with a rubber "Y". The rubber fittings came from Home Depot. I believe you are correct - FERNCO brand. The stands I'm using are actually made for electrical conduit, underground supports. Left over from a jobsite!

Insurance questions

I'm new to the travellin circle, where is a good place to get insurance for the rig when travellin. Like are there RV groups that do it or do you just stick with your own truck ins. broker?

You can do either. You can get it through Good Sam Club or Progressive is good also. MHO