6 Point Auto-Leveling - how the jacks work

I had an interesting discussion with one of the Lippert Tech Support people this morning. In asking a few questions about 6 point auto-leveling, he told me that the middle and rear jacks on each side are slaved together. That is, when you extend the doorside jacks, the middle and rear jacks act as a single unit, both lifting. Prior to this call, my understanding was that the rear jacks lifted and then the middle jacks extended to act as stabilizers.

Can someone with a 6 point system confirm this?

Thats the way it works Dan. 6 point work as 3 pair of jacks left right and front.

Agreed. That's how it works.

danemayer said:

I had an interesting discussion with one of the Lippert Tech Support people this morning. In asking a few questions about 6 point auto-leveling, he told me that the middle and rear jacks on each side are slaved together. That is, when you extend the doorside jacks, the middle and rear jacks act as a single unit, both lifting. Prior to this call, my understanding was that the rear jacks lifted and then the middle jacks extended to act as stabilizers.

Can someone with a 6 point system confirm this?

Click to expand...

Dan, as stated, both the middle and rear jacks move as one on each side. I don't know enough yet to fully discuss the in's and out's. I have only had my unit for two weeks and it was sitting in Camping World's back lot for one of those weeks. I picked it up this AM and parked it under the shelter due to rain coming in. I am reading and re-reading my Lippert components, Inc. Towable RV Component Manual which gives good information regarding this subject starting on page 18. This manual can be downloaded from the following site.

http://www.primetimerv.com/download/ComponentManuals/Chassis-Lippert-MasterComponentManual.pdf

I will know more after I go through the leveling procedure a few times.

Curt

The fronts are separate so left / right leveling can occur.


---
One day I'll put something clever in here.

My fronts work together only one switch to control both of them.

jnbhobe said:

My fronts work together only one switch to control both of them.

Click to expand...

But the level-up controls them separately. Otherwise left/right leveling would be frame-bendingly difficult.


---
One day I'll put something clever in here.

Left and right front legs are plumbed together the fluid will move back and forth thru the hoses but preasure is only applyed when the lt. gray wire to the soloniod is activated. Your rig will level front to back first, then the low side, then the high side, then it will check front to rear and side to side again till its right and then signal it is done.

I was told that the level-up with automatic leveling could not figure out on it's own when the unit was level. It was specifically stated to me that you had to keep using levels wherever (floor, stove, reefer shelves, etc) until you had it as level as you wanted it, then you had to press "FRONT" button 10 times and the "REAR" button 10 times then press "ENTER". After that, it would remember that setting, but at times, you would have to place something under one or more jacks, like a 2" x 8" x 12" oak board or more.

Reading the Lippert manual, it says that the unit will auto level but that you must start with the front jacks extended above level. What I don't understand is if the unit does auto level, why should you have to go through the "ZERO SETTING THE CONTROL" to get "ZERO POINT STABILITY SUCCESSFULLY SET" message. Do you have to go through this procedure every time the unit is auto-leveled? The manual is not clear on this.

Curt

Curt, the only time you will need to calibrate the system is when it is new or if the brain looses it's mind.
Oh, and you don't have to use any blocking under the jacks.
As far as the front jacks being extended above level, this should occur automatically when you unhitch. The first move the auto level will make will be to lower the front.

Peace
Dave

Does anyone know what type of warranty we get with the 6 point level up system and how long it is for. thanks Charlie and Maggie Brown

Curt_Hinson said:

I was told that the level-up with automatic leveling could not figure out on it's own when the unit was level. It was specifically stated to me that you had to keep using levels wherever (floor, stove, reefer shelves, etc) until you had it as level as you wanted it, then you had to press "FRONT" button 10 times and the "REAR" button 10 times then press "ENTER". After that, it would remember that setting, but at times, you would have to place something under one or more jacks, like a 2" x 8" x 12" oak board or more.

Reading the Lippert manual, it says that the unit will auto level but that you must start with the front jacks extended above level. What I don't understand is if the unit does auto level, why should you have to go through the "ZERO SETTING THE CONTROL" to get "ZERO POINT STABILITY SUCCESSFULLY SET" message. Do you have to go through this procedure every time the unit is auto-leveled? The manual is not clear on this.

Curt

Click to expand...

Curtis,

Normally, you shouldn't have to use the zero calibrate procedure. It should come already calibrated. But sometimes things aren't perfect and you (or your dealer) need to go through the calibration. You shouldn't need to calibrate the unit on a regular basis. I had ours recalibrated when it was new because it was slightly off level. It's been the same for nearly three years. That's how it's supposed to work, except that it should have been right when I got it.

You should be able to auto-level and you shouldn't need to use boards or blocks to get the unit level. The main reason you might want blocks or boards is if you need additional lift, beyond the normal extension of the jacks. I had an infield site at the Goshen Rally in 2011 that was so steep that I needed an extra foot under the front jacks. They're also handy if you're lifting to change a tire.

danemayer said:

They're also handy if you're lifting to change a tire. Everything I read says that this shouldn't be done. I thought that was why I bought the unit with the leveling jacks, to facilitate changing tires. LOL

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Since the gentlemen at Camping world did the "zero setting of the control" a couple of times, I guess I will have to have it calibrated.

I am glad to know I'm not the only one that doesn't quite understand the leveing system. I have manage to get it to work a few times. To me it's more than just pushing the button, standing back and watching it do it's job.

KRCyclone said:

I am glad to know I'm not the only one that doesn't quite understand the leveing system. I have manage to get it to work a few times. To me it's more than just pushing the button, standing back and watching it do it's job.

Click to expand...

When all things are working as they should - that's all you should have to do. Push the magic button, stand back and smile.

Of course, there are sites where you just won't have enough jack stroke length to level and the system may try or may tell you right away that it can't level out.

I'd say, 95% of my levelings are auto with no problem. When it's so unlevel that it can't even try, I use blocking then use enter manual mode to attempt to level.

It's a great system. I've had it on several coaches.

Maybe "auto level" is a bit of a misnomer. Think of it as an "Auto set back to what you want your trailer leveled at" system.

Example 1 (From Bob T, the designer) his idea of level is when he cracks an egg that it stays in the center of the pan.
Example 2 (me) my idea of level is when the AC condensate drains of the left side of the trailer.

Once you have "your" idea of level then you do the recalibration.

Front jacks as Jon mentioned are tied together and "float" (when raising and lowering) Rear jacks are tied together by side, eg left side middle and rear synced and right side middle and rear are synced.

If you lower your left or right side (or all four with the rear button) the jacks will extend with the jack encountering the least resistance moving first. As each jack extends and hits the ground the next least resistance jack extends until all the jacks are grounded.

once all the jacks are grounded you can keep extending to raise the trailer. It is easier on the system if you alternate between left and right while lifting.

All the jacks can operate when auto leveling.

Example, if you are level with all jacks grounded and raise the front (using keypad, not separate front switch) the front jacks will extend, the rear jacks will retract and the center jacks will extend at a rate less then the front.

It may be possible to see all 6 jacks move in different directions at different rates as the system levels from lets say, left rear corner up - right front corner down.

The system is designed to never stress the frame by twisting.

My tire change demonstration offer may not have come off the way I was expecting. I had explained to 8-10 people how to change a tire using the jacks. And a couple asked if I would demonstrate. It is simple enough, but there are a few tricks that can help. I was thinking a demo may help some understand the system.

And a side note, you don't always have to use auto level. There are times the auto feature may not be desirable, like when the door side is lower then the ODS. Auto leveling in this situation will exaggerate the height when leveling do to the system always grounding the left side jacks first (ground then extend about 1-2").

When the door side is low I extend the right side to level the trailer then the left side to just hitting the ground to steady the rig.

When in the manual mode, as you operate the jacks, the display will show you how far out of level you are. Left or right side when using the rear jacks and front to rear when using the front jacks.

It seems like a few of you have a pretty good handle on how this system works.

I have run into a problem a couple of times with my 4 point system when using the "manual mode". I have a new unit that will be delivered in about 3 weeks that will have the 6 point system.
My problem has occured when I am doing an overnight stay at a campground and I don't unhitch from the truck because I will be leaving real early the next morning. My refrigerator will stop cooling. It seems that the coach has to be at a certain level to have the ammonia be functional.
Naturally the frig will work fine when using the auto-level after unhiching, but I would like to know, "if" the coach had to be one way or the other for the frig to work while hitched, what should it be.... nose up or nose down, also, does left to right have any effect on the frig working.

I realize I'm jumping between the frig and the leveling on this post, I hope I'm in the right place.

Thank you
Dick

If your refrigerator stops cooling you must be way off level. You might want to try to manually get at least close to level.
Or...because you have the awesome convenience of having the auto level, you can unhitch or hitch up in about a minute. Why not unhitch for the night.

Peace
Dave

Rodbuster said:

It seems like a few of you have a pretty good handle on how this system works.

I have run into a problem a couple of times with my 4 point system when using the "manual mode". I have a new unit that will be delivered in about 3 weeks that will have the 6 point system.
My problem has occured when I am doing an overnight stay at a campground and I don't unhitch from the truck because I will be leaving real early the next morning. My refrigerator will stop cooling. It seems that the coach has to be at a certain level to have the ammonia be functional.
Naturally the frig will work fine when using the auto-level after unhiching, but I would like to know, "if" the coach had to be one way or the other for the frig to work while hitched, what should it be.... nose up or nose down, also, does left to right have any effect on the frig working.

I realize I'm jumping between the frig and the leveling on this post, I hope I'm in the right place.

Thank you
Dick

Click to expand...

Dick,

If you're off-level either direction, the gravity feed cooling system doesn't flow and some of the chemicals will crystallize in the tubes creating a permanent blockage. You're lucky it started cooling again. Fixing a blockage requires a new cooling unit - close to the cost of a new frig.

Hello porthole,

Your knowledge is extremely helpful in assisting me to understand the operation of the 6 point system.. I am involved now in repairing a leaking valve on what I call the "manifold" assembly. I totally concur with the "unique" situation when the door side is low when starting to level.....using manual mode does permit the trailer to become level at a lower stance since the left side jacks operate first in the auto mode.

terms og levelBack to my job at hand....replacing the leaking valve. It is leaking around the threads where it screws into the manifold. Have you (or anyone on this thread) had any experience in this area? My question is what would cause this failure as my unit hadn't been moved in a couple of months. The Lippert representative (extremely helpful) said it was probably a failed o-ring. I will know hopefully next week when I get the new one and replace it.

One other question....does the system rely on a "sensor" to know where it is in space? If so where is it located?

Great forum!


Quinton Miller

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk