Recommendations based on this scenario please (water use)

I am a total newbie and also asked this question on another RV site. I have a used 3010TT and going to take it on it's "maiden" voyage next week.


Scenario: Place I'm going to, has a spring fed, NON-potable water source (gravity pressure to main faucet head). I have seen many a camper here using this water as a "city source" over the years.

I was considering doing the same thing and am concerned about low outside temps causing freezing. Is it prudent to also have the fresh water side full (inside tank)?? I am assuming that I can use The "city side" for pressure, then if needed , just turn my water pump on to use my Holding tank?? If this is acceptable, do I need to disconnect the "city side" 1st??

I am also concerned of contaminating my tanks after reading some "disinfecting" threads here..

Any tips please?

If it's marked as non-potable, then I would not introduce it into the rig. Non-potable means you should not be drinking it without treating it first. The fact that other campers are using it as their city water source may mean they like the taste of Kaopectate.

Here's a link to the Heartland owners guide to winter water use. Good luck, but non-potable means don't drink it.

http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/User Guides/Water Systems Winter Usage Guide V1.pdf

You can fill your fresh tank before getting to your destination and use the pump to meet your water needs. You don't need to hook up to city water in order to use the pump. Just remember that the fresh tank has a limited amount of water. Long showers will use it up quickly. And as others have noted, non-potable water should not be used as city water or to fill the fresh tank. It should not be used for anything except flushing the black tank.

Thanks for the reply's!! I had no plans to use it other than for shower, potty and general use, not for consumption, I will carry filtered water this time around for coffee and drinking. Sorry, I should have mentioned that.

More concerned as you put it to "introduce it" to the system. I haven't read that thread yet (thanks for the link), but the rest of my question make sense, using both types of water supply, "city inlet and tank water? is it as simple as flipping on the pump switch?

If you have separate water connections outside for the tank and for city water, it's as simple as turning on the pump. On some newer high-end trailers, there is a 4-way valve with a single water connection, in which case, the 4-way valve gets set to NORMAL when using the pump. Our owner-written Water Systems Guide covers this and a lot of other stuff you may find helpful.

Introducing contaminated water into your plumbing system is a bad idea even if you don't plan to drink the water. You could introduce e Coli and other dangerous bacteria into the pex lines, faucets, water heater, and other areas where it could linger and bite you at a later date.

OK, read through that link, now I'm scared to even put water on board at all!! LOL I have an enclosed belly until it gets to the toy end, I have no clue if its heated or whatever? Not even sure if you'd call it enclosed, looks like just black card board to me? Bought it used from a dealer that took it as trade, so I got a very short "walk through" LOL

danemayer said:

If you have separate water connections outside for the tank and for city water, it's as simple as turning on the pump. On some newer high-end trailers, there is a 4-way valve with a single water connection, in which case, the 4-way valve gets set to NORMAL when using the pump. Our owner-written Water Systems Guide covers this and a lot of other stuff you may find helpful.

Introducing contaminated water into your plumbing system is a bad idea even if you don't plan to drink the water. You could introduce e Coli and other dangerous bacteria into the pex lines, faucets, water heater, and other areas where it could linger and bite you at a later date.

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Thanks a million, that is what I suspected and didn't want to emulate the other "campers" without asking 1st. Mine is a 2008, so I have a city water connection on one side and the water tank fill in the front (door side). Didnt know if adding water treatment was prudent, like used in the Military to purify water in the field/canteen.

Thanks! You guys are great. Now not sure what to do about water if it could freeze. SW Colorado is my destination and it ranges from 15* to 80* this time of year from past experience.

We have never gone through the sanitizing process on our water system so we don't use the water for consumption. What I have been doing when we'll be using the tank is add 2 oz of bleach when I'm filling it (about 100 gallons). The added chlorine should keep any bacteria growth to a minimum so using tank water for none consumption purposes should be safe.

We don't camp in sub freezing temps, so that is not an issue for us.

As to water tanks and usage for us.

We use our fresh water tanks all the time. Last thing I want on the road is two pups with GI issues from strange water.

We (I) sanitize them at least once sometimes twice a season as a PM.

If for some reason I have to add water from any other source other then my house, I will sanitize the tanks again (long trips etc)

We carry 110 gallons of fresh water and use it for everything. Actual drinking, coffee etc comes from the tanks and filtered through a 4 stage under sink filter. The water is filtered before going into the tanks with a sediment filter.

I drain the tanks after every trip, so there is no stagnation going on.

Every source of water has "living stuff" of some sort in it. Some bad, some not so bad. Let water sit too long and it will allow that "stuff" to die off, making the water less palatable and maybe bad for you.

The key to quality, healthy water with on board storage is consistent use and sanitizing.
Even if you never use the on board storage, you should still sanitize the lines occasionally.

We have been doing this since the late 80's, starting with boats.

BTW, the "clorox" formula for approximately 100 gallons of storage is about 1 3/4 cups, not 2 ounces.

You should be able to smell the bleach when running the water, but not be over whelmed by it.
Key is to make sure all of your 100 gallons is treated. Easier said then done.

The mixture should sit in the lines, tanks for at least 4 hours, then dump and refill. Ayn residual chlorine will naturally dissipate.
I have the water heater off when doing this.


NOTE: Dual water tanks have "special needs" to insure that both tanks are sanitized, rinsed.
Don't know if all the newer trailers have been retro fitted, but our 2010 3010 had fresh water tanks that prevented the tanks from being sanitized and flushed properly.

Wow great information!! I will try to flush the tanks this week end with Bleach. Being a used TT, I would feel better starting "fresh" anyway. I am not 100% sure about my tank volumes, but I believe the holding tank is 100-110 from information I have seen on the web. Pretty certian I have to Grey tanks, or at least I have 2 grey drain valves and 1 Black.

Sounds like I would be better off just using the on board tank in the long run.

porthole said:

BTW, the "clorox" formula for approximately 100 gallons of storage is about 1 3/4 cups, not 2 ounces.

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You are correct for sanitizing the system. That concentration must be drained though and not used for any other purpose.