Project LM 365

It's behind the wall in the basement and it's working good so is that IR right ? maybe that's RF I don't know. LOL
You can go WiFi to and run it from your phone
They said I needed another piece to do it and it needs constant WiFi. He didn't recommend it on an RV. More for at home use

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I was just able to get a better view of the picture and it is RF for the RGBW remote. Nice. That means it will work through the wall and with a door closed. That was the trouble I was having with mine is that you have to find that perfect spot to aim the remote to change the lights. Then again I don't keep changing them. I set them for the night and leave em alone.

Ya the one I took of was like that. You had to aim it at that little sensor.


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This is a repair Mod
As most of you know I take my control switch panel out all of the time so naturally my screw holes have opened up bigger than the screws. So I took two pieces of 1"x3/8" scrap wood and stuck some two-sided adhesive tape on it and stuck it in behind the screw holes then pre drilled the holes with a small bit to make it easier to start the screws.
Problem solved and when they ware out you can just move the block up or down.









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Nice mod Jerrod. I did the same thing earlier but I used small screws to hold the wood.

Dave it was a challenge trying to get the first screw to start without pushing the wood in a small flat head screw would of been a good option.

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jesstalkn said:

Dave it was a challenge trying to get the first screw to start without pushing the wood in a small flat head screw would of been a good option.

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Click to expand...

Take pan head screws. Make sure you recess the hole a bit so the screws sit a little below or close to flush, then the panel will go right on top. It may be out just a hair from the screw heads but the backing board wont go anywhere.

You could cut the screw heads off, glue them in place, and use velcro to secure the panel instead!

It's fixed good for now Erika but Velcro is a good option too.


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Jerrod, as much as you go into that panel, these are what you need. Going back to my car racing days. Dzus Fastners. Half a turn on each and the panel is off.

Good idea Steve. Mine is kinda tucked in behind the hinge so it's kinda tight.

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Well I started this morning with a few projects on my list.
First one was to remove the unused 15' foot piece of 1/2" gas line that run under the RV all the way down to behind the Axles. It was a factory prep for gas stove option. We have the Induction cook top so no need for the rusty gas line. I removed the line at the T for the heater and W/H. And I installed a 18" black pipe and reused the same cap that was already on the end of the run before. Now if ever need to tap into it I can easily.








Next the propane line going to the Generator (Installed at the dealer) was about 10' long when it only needed to be 48". So out with the big rolled up mess and in with the perfectly sized 48" line. Now It won't bug me anymore.











I also Installed the new ball valve in the line going over to the other tank.

Looks good Jerrod. I wonder why they use iron pipe and not the newer yellow flexible stuff

I had about 25' of it under there. Now I'm down to about 10'

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Bones said:

Looks good Jerrod. I wonder why they use iron pipe and not the newer yellow flexible stuff

Click to expand...

The yellow flex pipe cannot be run exposed it would need to be in a cover. It is also expensive and needs special tools to work with. The black pipe is cheap.

I think the iron pipe is specified in the RVIA code.

Another Mod off my list.
The macerator pump 12V wiring project.
I have had these parts on my work bench for some time now and decided to tackle it today.
The macerator pump runs off 12v. The batteries are a long ways away from the sewer dump tube. So I wanted to hard wire a plug back to that area. I used 10-gauge 2 wire and put it into a loom. I then fished it out of the battery compartment up into the underbelly and back to the backside of the drop frame.
Drilled a 1/2 hole, installed a rubber grommet, and stuck the wires through. Soldered the terminals on to the wire and popped them into the plug.











I wired it into the spare breaker on the bus bar.
While I was doing that something didn't seem right on how it was weird from the battery. And after finding the schematic sheet on the forum I proved my theory. When they did my solar and inverter at the dealer he put it back together wrong. All good now..... It wasn't a big deal but the master switch was just cutting power the the pickup charge wire not the bus bar. Also the small wire was running the coach and the big cable was going to the breaker from the pickup.



And finally the cap for the plug. I made it out of a large inline fuse cover I had in my box of goodies. I had two of them. I think they were from my ARB air compressor in my Jeep.
I wanted to be able to fasten it to the RV, so it doesn't get lost, so I cut the fuse base with my band saw. (I sound like Bob Vila) I always watch those shows and said "who has all of those tools in there shop"
And after many years of collecting them I have a lot of them.
Anyway final product came out better than planned.








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Very nice! I love it when you find other stuff to fix "while you're in there".


Carleen
2011 Ford F-350 6.7
2011 Big Horn 3585RL

Thanks

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I ran a little test while I was filling my tank for our next trip.
Using the outside shower hose to try and flush my black tank.
I have done this before in a pinch, like rest area dump stations with no hose bib.
Hooked to my house I'm getting about 48psi.
Then turned both hot and cold valves on all the way and I'm getting about 15psi. Not much. Although it would help you clean out some of it in a pinch don't know that it would do a very good job.
I then hooked my flush hose and opened it up.
45psi now that will flush a tank. Some parks with higher pressure I'll feel comfortable pushing it up to 60psi no problem.





Direct flush hose from house



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