Bighorn 3260EL Shocks

pjberny5 said:

Have less than 20000 miles on my 2014 3260 Bighorn and noticed two of the shocks are leaking oil. Any recommendations on a replacement shock and are they difficult to replace. I'm pretty handy at fixing a lot of things. I'm an old farm boy.

I assume you will need to replace them all.

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pjberny5 said:

View attachment 45052
Rex. First thanks for the response. Would this be them. This is from shockwarehouse.com - 24-064194 F4-BE3-6419-M0 Bilstein Dexter Trailer Axle

Old Part No: F4-BE3-6419-M0

Also called the Bilstein B6 Series or Bilstein 4600 Series, the Heavy Duty has an extruded metal body, high tech monotube construction and 360 psi gas pressure to prevent aeration and fading, it is the best performing and most durable unit we carry. No other shock can match it.

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rxbristol said:

That looks like the right one--it has the old part number. I purchased mine from this EBay vendor. He seems to have the best prices. I will post pictures next week on how I compress this shock for installation.

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rxbristol said:

You can replace the bad shocks with the same OEM if you're happy with them. Lots have used the Monroe 555001 shocks. I have gone to Bilsteins 24-064194, B6 series, because the Monroes did not hold up over rough roads on my Landmark.

The shocks are very easy to change. Take off the nuts from the shock stems, contract the shock and remove from the suspension--Note how the rubber bushings and the metal stops were arranged. Charge the new shocks (compress and let them rebound a few times). Put on the metal stops and bushings on the new shocks, install the bottom stem, compress the shock and then guide the rebounding upper stem into the hole. Install the remaining bushings, stops and nuts. I recommend locking nylon nuts so the shocks stay in place. If you decide on the Bilsteins, let me know because I have a technique to help compress the upper stem because it does not have anything to grip onto to help in compression like other shocks.

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pjberny5 said:

Rex: If decided to go with the Bilsteins and was wondering on your technique to compress the upper stem.

Thanks in advance.
Paul.

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rxbristol said:

Paul, I will try to explain in the steps below. If they are not totally clear, just let me know and I will try to clarify.

1. Make sure there is no weight on the tires on the side you'll trying to install the shocks. It doesn't have to be off the ground--you're just trying to get some extra room for the shock install--you'll need it.

2. Install the shock into the lower hole. Follow the washer and bushing guide making sure the washers and bushings are correctly in place. You definitely don't want to get the top in only to find out the lower end of the shock needs another washer or bushing.

3. Place the blue rubber piece onto the shock and again, make sure you have the washer and bushings on and in the correct order.

4. Now here is the trick I used since I don't have any special tools or workshop...place the socket--deep well (same size as the shock nut) and ratchet onto the top of the shock. This will allow you to compress the top of the shock straight down, not damage the shock threads AND it gives you the needed leverage.

5. Compress the shock as far as you can, quickly remove the socket/racket wrench and quickly guide the returning shock into the upper hole. Install the final bushings and washer and tighten both nuts. The Bilsteins have nylon lock nuts. Since I did not have the weight off the right side when I first tried to install the shocks I repeated the compression process a couple of times before I realized what was going on. This extra compressing left me sore for the next two days.
.
Remember, you'll need another or longer length bushing for the top of the shock because of the extra shaft length on the Bilstein shocks. Also, you'll need to charge the shock. I used a block of wood to press the upper shock shaft onto so as not to damage the shaft or threads and used my body weight to compress the shock a couple of times. If you don't charge the shock, I would be surprised if you would be able to compress the shock during installation.

What I find interesting is that the OEM shocks can be compressed by a child.

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pjberny5 said:

Curious what you mean by. Remember, you'll need another or longer length bushing for the top of the shock because of the extra shaft length on the Bilstein shocks. (double up on the bushings) Can additional or longer bushings be purchased separately.

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rxbristol said:

The top of the Bilstein shock is a little longer, but the threads don't go all the way down--so, if you don't use two bushings the nut will run out of threads too soon and won't tighten down on the bushing. I found the easiest way to solve the issue is to put two bushings on the top which covers up the un-threaded shaft. I had extra polyurethane bushings that I used. Yes, you'll have to purchase these. I don't recommend you use your old bushings because they are VERY cheap and disintegrate rapidly.

Click to expand...

rxbristol said:

You can replace the bad shocks with the same OEM if you're happy with them. Lots have used the Monroe 555001 shocks. I have gone to Bilsteins 24-064194, B6 series, because the Monroes did not hold up over rough roads on my Landmark.

The shocks are very easy to change. Take off the nuts from the shock stems, contract the shock and remove from the suspension--Note how the rubber bushings and the metal stops were arranged. Charge the new shocks (compress and let them rebound a few times). Put on the metal stops and bushings on the new shocks, install the bottom stem, compress the shock and then guide the rebounding upper stem into the hole. Install the remaining bushings, stops and nuts. I recommend locking nylon nuts so the shocks stay in place. If you decide on the Bilsteins, let me know because I have a technique to help compress the upper stem because it does not have anything to grip onto to help in compression like other shocks.

Click to expand...