Interior Light not working
- Thread starter jhm21849
- Start date
wdk450
Well-known member
I had the actual door switch go intermittent on me. I sprayed it with Caig Cramolyn DeOxIt electrical contact cleaner/restorer a couple of years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.
On Edit: For all the other potential posters, this is the little light in the REFRIGERATOR (RM1350) NOT a ceiling light.
On Edit: For all the other potential posters, this is the little light in the REFRIGERATOR (RM1350) NOT a ceiling light.
Last edited:
Fox
Well-known member
Last year (in my prior 08 Jayco) I had an overhead light in one slide become intermittent/ finally go out. Once I removed it from the ceiling I found evidence of water intrusion where the return/ground wire was all cruddy; not enough hardware slack to clean it up so I put it back in the ceiling - planning to simply replace the light ... which I never did. Then earlier this month the other slides matching light went out.
Tired of minor nickle and dime'ing we traded for our Bighorn. I did disclose this (and several other minor probs - to the dealer).
Tired of minor nickle and dime'ing we traded for our Bighorn. I did disclose this (and several other minor probs - to the dealer).
danemayer
Well-known member
The light is powered through a relay on the back of the refrigerator. The relay power goes through a blade type fuse on the back of the refrigerator.
Wiring diagram with markup is attached.
Attachments
wdk450
Well-known member
Good guess, but if the connection came off of the 12 volt fuse in the fuse panel (or anything was wrong with the 12 volt DC circuit to the refrig), there would be no status lights on the refrigerator eyebrow control panel display, and the refrigerator would not work at all with no 12 volt DC "logic" power to the refrigerator circuit board.
wdk450
Well-known member
Dan:
The way I read that schematic, power (+12 v) from the circuit board comes on wire #1 to the lamp, goes through the lamp to the switch, and the bottom of the switch is tied to the common ground point (12 volt return) through wire #3. This is all of the lamp circuit.
The nearby relay is not involved in the lamp circuit. The relay switches a 120 volt water solenoid that seems to be involved in the icemaker.
Best Regards,
danemayer
Well-known member
Bill,
Some years back I had a problem with the light not working. The water/ice maker was also not working. The relay wasn't firing and the cause of both was a loose fuse.
The light is a bit of a puzzle in that it seems to involve p5, p6, and p7 connections in the diagram. When the door is closed there's a path to ground through the door switches. When the door is open, the ground path for the light seems to be the board connection. There's also a Fuse (F3) on the board to the upper right of the light, which may be involved as well as it may be the power source for p5.
I admit it's hard to figure out the circuit. But my money is on one of the fuses.
wdk450
Well-known member
Is there +12 VDC on either of the switch electrical terminals? There is +12 VDC coming off of the circuit board pin J2 to the lamp, and the switches provide a path to ground. With the lamp not lighting (and a good lamp) there should be +12 volts on both ends of the lamp. If you pull out the lamp, there should be +12 volts DC to one end of the lamp. Note which end this is, put the lamp back in, and connect a grounded wire to the OTHER end of the lamp - the lamp should light. If so, this tells you there is a problem with the ground connection circuit through the switches.
See: Page 23 of this manual for the schematic: https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Service Manual, RM1350.pdf
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