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Thread: Replace corrugated chassis skin

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    Senior Member carl.swoyer's Avatar
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    Replace corrugated chassis skin

    While on my three months and 8500 miles of traveling....?? I have a hole !!
    Didn't recall running over anything, but it is in fact a hole that filled with highway water.

    I plan to go with 4' x 8' 13mm corrugated panels.

    Has anyone else done this?

    What did you use for the 8' seam?

    While in the belly I'm going to attempt to better insulate.

    And any suggestions for a place to purchase the corrugated panels?

    Thanks for the input.

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

  2. Print this Post   #2
    Moderator danemayer's Avatar
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    Carl,

    I've gotten coroplast from Heartland in the past. You might be able to get some from a local dealer. Or the dealer might be able to identify their supplier, who could be local.

    I'd suggest 1x4 or 1x6 pressure treated lumber positioned inside the frame members. You may have to round the corners to get it to slide into place. Align the rear section of coroplast so the edge is flush with the wood and screw it into place. Overlap the front section of coroplast the width of the wood and screw it into place. Flashing tape the joint for overkill.

    If the section you're replacing is near your holding tank gate valves, you might consider installing Zippered Flap Traps. With the coroplast down, you'll know exactly how to position the Flap Traps for easy access to lubricate and maintain the gate valves. Best if they're installed on fresh coroplast and I would run Flashing Tape around the perimeter of the trap as well.


    Dan and Ann Mayer & fur baby Callie the Rally Dog
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  3. Print this Post   #3
    Senior Member carl.swoyer's Avatar
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    Quote Originally Posted by danemayer View Post
    Carl,

    I've gotten coroplast from Heartland in the past. You might be able to get some from a local dealer. Or the dealer might be able to identify their supplier, who could be local.

    I'd suggest 1x4 or 1x6 pressure treated lumber positioned inside the frame members. You may have to round the corners to get it to slide into place. Align the rear section of coroplast so the edge is flush with the wood and screw it into place. Overlap the front section of coroplast the width of the wood and screw it into place. Flashing tape the joint for overkill.

    If the section you're replacing is near your holding tank gate valves, you might consider installing Zippered Flap Traps. With the coroplast down, you'll know exactly how to position the Flap Traps for easy access to lubricate and maintain the gate valves. Best if they're installed on fresh coroplast and I would run Flashing Tape around the perimeter of the trap as well.
    Thanks Dane,
    Got a price from a dealer today 650.00 to r&r. But that doesn't include new interior support and new insulation.
    Just have to decide if I want to crawl in the sand to do it myself. Any idea how long it will take to get the r&r done by myself? They said the new coroplast is $1.69 lf

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

  4. Print this Post   #4
    Moderator danemayer's Avatar
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    If you're replacing the front, drop-frame section only, you can drop the entire section pretty quickly. Cut a couple of planks. Re-install in sections. Maybe 1/2 day if you don't do other work while the underbelly is open.
    The rear section is probably another 1/2 day. You don't want to try removing the forward most part of that section as it's trapped - leave 6-12" for overlap of new sections. How much to leave depends on where your plumbing is located. If you leave too much, it'll be difficult to get to the valve for Gray #2. You also probably want to stay in front of the axles unless that's a problem area, as you'd have to do some cutout work.

    While the underbelly is open, if you ever plan on cold weather use, that would be the time to add heat tape and insulation to the water feed line from the fresh tank to the pump, and to the kitchen hot and cold lines.

    Be prepared for some of the self-tapping screws to shear the heads off when removing. Have some spares (sorry I don't remember the size). You'll need some good 1/8" bits (or maybe a bit larger) if you need to put in new screws. I've never had much success getting self-tapping screws to go through the frame without a pilot hole.

    I found an impact wrench does a much better job than a hand held socket wrench.


    Dan and Ann Mayer & fur baby Callie the Rally Dog
    2011 Landmark Rushmore
    • MorRyde 8K Independent Suspension
    • 8K Kodiak Disc Brakes
    • RV Comfort Systems Cheap Heat
    • MorRyde 33x90 Sliding Cargo Tray
    • Torklift Glowstep Revolution Aluminum Steps & Dirt Destroyer

    2014 RAM 3500 Laramie
    • Cummins 6.7 Diesel, AISIN Transmission
    • 4x4, Long box, Crew Cab, DRW 3.73
    • Hensley BD3 TrailerSaver Hitch
    • Garmin RV760 GPS


    Is club membership right for you? Click here to learn more

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  5. Print this Post   #5
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    Try a local printer for you coroplast supply. They use it for signs....might be limited to white but whose looking
    Gary Powell

    2013 Bighorn 3010 RE
    2015 Chevrolet 3500 SRW Diesel


  6. Print this Post   #6
    Senior Member carl.swoyer's Avatar
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    Quote Originally Posted by danemayer View Post
    If you're replacing the front, drop-frame section only, you can drop the entire section pretty quickly. Cut a couple of planks. Re-install in sections. Maybe 1/2 day if you don't do other work while the underbelly is open.
    The rear section is probably another 1/2 day. You don't want to try removing the forward most part of that section as it's trapped - leave 6-12" for overlap of new sections. How much to leave depends on where your plumbing is located. If you leave too much, it'll be difficult to get to the valve for Gray #2. You also probably want to stay in front of the axles unless that's a problem area, as you'd have to do some cutout work.

    While the underbelly is open, if you ever plan on cold weather use, that would be the time to add heat tape and insulation to the water feed line from the fresh tank to the pump, and to the kitchen hot and cold lines.

    Be prepared for some of the self-tapping screws to shear the heads off when removing. Have some spares (sorry I don't remember the size). You'll need some good 1/8" bits (or maybe a bit larger) if you need to put in new screws. I've never had much success getting self-tapping screws to go through the frame without a pilot hole.

    I found an impact wrench does a much better job than a hand held socket wrench.
    Thanks for your input

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

  7. Print this Post   #7
    Senior Member pegmikef's Avatar
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    I had to pull the front down to replace a hydraulic line. Coming down was easy as I only had to make a couple of cuts (I used special tape to reseal the cuts), but going back up not so easy. The way I did it was propped up one end (I used two or three card board boxes) then worked it a section at a time starting near the propped up end. I used my roll around floor jack with an eight foot 1 x 6 to hold up the section I was working on. After a couple of sections, it is pretty easy as I used the same holes (I bought all new bolts) and an electric impact wrench. As Dan said 3 or 4 bolts broke and I found it easier to grind them flush to the beam and drill them out. After the prep it took less than an hour to install the front section.
    Last edited by pegmikef; 08-28-2019 at 04:08 PM.
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  8. Print this Post   #8
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    One tip to prevent broken bolts is to use an impact drill instead of a normal drill (or hand tools). I replaced the entire length of my coroplast (the 22 feet behind the drop frame) a year or so ago and didn't break a single bolt removing or replacing them. It was definitely a two person job. It's not perfect, but it works.





    Since it was a bit saggy behind the axles, I braced it with a couple pieces of steel L-shaped material from Lowe's, just to keep things neat.

    Malcolm Talley
    2016 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 | 2015 Big Country 3650RL | 2012 Ford Escape Limited
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  9. Print this Post   #9
    Senior Member carl.swoyer's Avatar
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    Quote Originally Posted by MCTalley View Post
    One tip to prevent broken bolts is to use an impact drill instead of a normal drill (or hand tools). I replaced the entire length of my coroplast (the 22 feet behind the drop frame) a year or so ago and didn't break a single bolt removing or replacing them. It was definitely a two person job. It's not perfect, but it works.





    Since it was a bit saggy behind the axles, I braced it with a couple pieces of steel L-shaped material from Lowe's, just to keep things neat.

    Mctalley,
    How did you get the coroplast over the Axel?

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

  10. Print this Post   #10
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    Re: Replace corrugated chassis skin

    Quote Originally Posted by carl.swoyer View Post
    Mctalley,
    How did you get the coroplast over the Axel?

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
    Curled it up and slid it through, then uncurled it. Cutting around the various suspension mounting points proved to be the most time-consuming part. Actually, getting the hard LP gas line loose from the frame so I could get the coroplast under it on the off-door side was probably the most difficult.
    Malcolm Talley
    2016 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 | 2015 Big Country 3650RL | 2012 Ford Escape Limited
    Full-time since September, 2012
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