Replace corrugated chassis skin

[carl.swoyer]

While on my three months and 8500 miles of traveling....?? I have a hole !!
Didn't recall running over anything, but it is in fact a hole that filled with highway water.

I plan to go with 4' x 8' 13mm corrugated panels.

Has anyone else done this?

What did you use for the 8' seam?

While in the belly I'm going to attempt to better insulate.

And any suggestions for a place to purchase the corrugated panels?

Thanks for the input.

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[danemayer]

Carl,

I've gotten coroplast from Heartland in the past. You might be able to get some from a local dealer. Or the dealer might be able to identify their supplier, who could be local.

I'd suggest 1x4 or 1x6 pressure treated lumber positioned inside the frame members. You may have to round the corners to get it to slide into place. Align the rear section of coroplast so the edge is flush with the wood and screw it into place. Overlap the front section of coroplast the width of the wood and screw it into place. Flashing tape the joint for overkill.

If the section you're replacing is near your holding tank gate valves, you might consider installing Zippered Flap Traps. With the coroplast down, you'll know exactly how to position the Flap Traps for easy access to lubricate and maintain the gate valves. Best if they're installed on fresh coroplast and I would run Flashing Tape around the perimeter of the trap as well.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Carl,

I've gotten coroplast from Heartland in the past. You might be able to get some from a local dealer. Or the dealer might be able to identify their supplier, who could be local.

I'd suggest 1x4 or 1x6 pressure treated lumber positioned inside the frame members. You may have to round the corners to get it to slide into place. Align the rear section of coroplast so the edge is flush with the wood and screw it into place. Overlap the front section of coroplast the width of the wood and screw it into place. Flashing tape the joint for overkill.

If the section you're replacing is near your holding tank gate valves, you might consider installing Zippered Flap Traps. With the coroplast down, you'll know exactly how to position the Flap Traps for easy access to lubricate and maintain the gate valves. Best if they're installed on fresh coroplast and I would run Flashing Tape around the perimeter of the trap as well.

Thanks Dane,
Got a price from a dealer today 650.00 to r&r. But that doesn't include new interior support and new insulation.
Just have to decide if I want to crawl in the sand to do it myself. Any idea how long it will take to get the r&r done by myself? They said the new coroplast is $1.69 lf

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[danemayer]

If you're replacing the front, drop-frame section only, you can drop the entire section pretty quickly. Cut a couple of planks. Re-install in sections. Maybe 1/2 day if you don't do other work while the underbelly is open.

The rear section is probably another 1/2 day. You don't want to try removing the forward most part of that section as it's trapped - leave 6-12" for overlap of new sections. How much to leave depends on where your plumbing is located. If you leave too much, it'll be difficult to get to the valve for Gray #2. You also probably want to stay in front of the axles unless that's a problem area, as you'd have to do some cutout work.

While the underbelly is open, if you ever plan on cold weather use, that would be the time to add heat tape and insulation to the water feed line from the fresh tank to the pump, and to the kitchen hot and cold lines.

Be prepared for some of the self-tapping screws to shear the heads off when removing. Have some spares (sorry I don't remember the size). You'll need some good 1/8" bits (or maybe a bit larger) if you need to put in new screws. I've never had much success getting self-tapping screws to go through the frame without a pilot hole.

I found an impact wrench does a much better job than a hand held socket wrench.​

 

[Garypowell]

Try a local printer for you coroplast supply. They use it for signs....might be limited to white but whose looking

 

[carl.swoyer]

If you're replacing the front, drop-frame section only, you can drop the entire section pretty quickly. Cut a couple of planks. Re-install in sections. Maybe 1/2 day if you don't do other work while the underbelly is open.

The rear section is probably another 1/2 day. You don't want to try removing the forward most part of that section as it's trapped - leave 6-12" for overlap of new sections. How much to leave depends on where your plumbing is located. If you leave too much, it'll be difficult to get to the valve for Gray #2. You also probably want to stay in front of the axles unless that's a problem area, as you'd have to do some cutout work.

While the underbelly is open, if you ever plan on cold weather use, that would be the time to add heat tape and insulation to the water feed line from the fresh tank to the pump, and to the kitchen hot and cold lines.

Be prepared for some of the self-tapping screws to shear the heads off when removing. Have some spares (sorry I don't remember the size). You'll need some good 1/8" bits (or maybe a bit larger) if you need to put in new screws. I've never had much success getting self-tapping screws to go through the frame without a pilot hole.

I found an impact wrench does a much better job than a hand held socket wrench.​

Thanks for your input

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[pegmikef]

I had to pull the front down to replace a hydraulic line. Coming down was easy as I only had to make a couple of cuts (I used special tape to reseal the cuts), but going back up not so easy. The way I did it was propped up one end (I used two or three card board boxes) then worked it a section at a time starting near the propped up end. I used my roll around floor jack with an eight foot 1 x 6 to hold up the section I was working on. After a couple of sections, it is pretty easy as I used the same holes (I bought all new bolts) and an electric impact wrench. As Dan said 3 or 4 bolts broke and I found it easier to grind them flush to the beam and drill them out. After the prep it took less than an hour to install the front section.

 

[MCTalley]

One tip to prevent broken bolts is to use an impact drill instead of a normal drill (or hand tools). I replaced the entire length of my coroplast (the 22 feet behind the drop frame) a year or so ago and didn't break a single bolt removing or replacing them. It was definitely a two person job. It's not perfect, but it works.

Since it was a bit saggy behind the axles, I braced it with a couple pieces of steel L-shaped material from Lowe's, just to keep things neat.

 

[carl.swoyer]

One tip to prevent broken bolts is to use an impact drill instead of a normal drill (or hand tools). I replaced the entire length of my coroplast (the 22 feet behind the drop frame) a year or so ago and didn't break a single bolt removing or replacing them. It was definitely a two person job. It's not perfect, but it works.

Since it was a bit saggy behind the axles, I braced it with a couple pieces of steel L-shaped material from Lowe's, just to keep things neat.

Mctalley,
How did you get the coroplast over the Axel?

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[MCTalley]

Mctalley,
How did you get the coroplast over the Axel?

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Curled it up and slid it through, then uncurled it. Cutting around the various suspension mounting points proved to be the most time-consuming part. Actually, getting the hard LP gas line loose from the frame so I could get the coroplast under it on the off-door side was probably the most difficult.

 

[TXgearhead]

I had pretty good luck using Fastenal SS self drilling/tapping. Take one to the store for example. Also used a 1/4" Dewalt 20volt impact. I didn't remove/replace, I just added the perforated L material to prevent sagging.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Thanks for everyone's input.
I'll be hopefully finishing this week


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[aatauses]

I have had the front off a few times to work on tanks, but not the rear section. Taking the front off and putting it back on took a few hours. I found it best to be on my back and use legs and arms to get it installed with minimal bulging.
al
currently in MT

 

[danemayer]

Carl,

One more thing. On the front section, when it came time to put it back on, the last time I did it, I used a 2x4 and some spring clamps as a 3rd arm to hold the coroplast in approximate position.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Carl,

One more thing. On the front section, when it came time to put it back on, the last time I did it, I used a 2x4 and some spring clamps as a 3rd arm to hold the coroplast in approximate position.

Dane
What did you pay for the coroplast from heartland?
They just quoted me 9.75 linear foot?
Asked for a discount they said no. Is that what you paid?
Seems expensive

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[danemayer]

Carl,

It's been quite a few years, but $10/ft sounds right.

 

[MCTalley]

Dane
What did you pay for the coroplast from heartland?
They just quoted me 9.75 linear foot?
Asked for a discount they said no. Is that what you paid?
Seems expensive

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Pretty sure that's about what I paid for ours a couple years ago. We bought 22 or 24 feet and I remember it being around $225. We picked it up on the way through, so no shipping charges. I've heard that shipping would run more than the price of the coroplast itself. Not surprising considering the size.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Pretty sure that's about what I paid for ours a couple years ago. We bought 22 or 24 feet and I remember it being around $225. We picked it up on the way through, so no shipping charges. I've heard that shipping would run more than the price of the coroplast itself. Not surprising considering the size.

Well I found some coroplast at Register RV for 1.79 lf. ? I'm going to compare it to the old. Hopefully this will be the same quality. And I need to get my arss in gear as we have Dorian knocking on the door this weekend.


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[carl.swoyer]

Finished!
I installed 1" foiled Styrofoam insulation along the I-beam for the length of the chassis then installed r14 insulation but I suspended it with fencing wire so it doesn't lay on the coreaplasty. I then extended the heat for the belly so it goes down next to the tanks , it was just dropping over where the drop is on the chassis. I did this in the humid 90° weather. So it's done. I also added a couple of 90° support from home Depot. Definitely would be easier with two people.

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Forgot the final product