Manual Crank Rod Incorrect?

These post were moved to start a new thread in the Bighorn area. Originally were posted in the Big Country ask the factory. His problem is the crank handle does not fit correctly.

Jim M

bwwalczak said:

Thank you for the post. Everyone on this forum is very helpful.

Each model we assemble has a crank for manual operation for the front and rear jacks.

The correct size is a 1/4" hex key if you are going to use a socket.

You will find the manual front jack overide in the hydraulic compartment, same as the battery, on the door side, just forward of the main compartment. You will find a small hole aprox 3" in the wall just above the hydraulic fluid tank.

Regarding the hydraulic overide, you can find the access in the main compartment, going right into the hydraulic pump (in the compartment above we just mentioned).

We are using the best components available, so you should not expect any failures, however, we leave these access points available just in case.

I hope this helps answer your questions. Thanks.

Click to expand...

But in my case, as I found out today, it does not fit anything. Mine is the same diameter as the rod for the front jack override and has nothing but a narrow slot on the end of it. No way to engage the override. It fits into the sleeve on the rear jacks, but it won't slip over the pin inside. And I don't want to try hammering it in. And what am I supposed to use to get the spare tire down? It's the same diameter as the front jack override. Is there supposed to be an adapter of some kind with the rod? If not, all I've got a black metal back scratcher. I've made this known to my dealer, as well.

The same crank is used for the Front landing gear, the rear stabilizer jacks, and the spare tire. Sometimes there is a paint / powder coat build up from our frame supplier that prevents the crank from engaging 100%. Sounds like the shaft needs cleaned. Note the hex key is for the hydraulic pump override.

Does this answer help?

bwwalczak said:

The same crank is used for the Front landing gear, the rear stabilizer jacks, and the spare tire. Sometimes there is a paint / powder coat build up from our frame supplier that prevents the crank from engaging 100%. Sounds like the shaft needs cleaned. Note the hex key is for the hydraulic pump override.

Does this answer help?

Click to expand...

Bryan,
I figured the crank rod was for all three. And as I mentioned, it will not work with any of them. The end of the rod is the same diameter as the front jack shaft and the spare tire carrier, so there is no way it's going to fit over, under, or through anything. As for the rear jacks, it fits into the sleeve, but even with force, it will not engage the pin. I believe the slot is too small.

It's drizzling, but I'll head over to the storage yard and try to get some photos.

John

Bryan,
As promised, photos. For reference, the rod is 1/2" diameter and the slot at the end is 3/8" deep and just shy of 3/16" wide. It is also not entirely centered on the diameter, which may explain why it won't engage the rear jack pin. As you can see in the photos, the front jack rod is also 1/2" diameter and the pins are set back 1 1/4" from the end. The spare tire fitting is also 1/2" in diameter.