The 120 volt stuff is ALL circuit breakers in the inside breaker panel. The 120 volts to the refrigerator only supplies power for the AC heating elements. Everything else in the refrigerator is done by 12 volts DC and propane.
The 12 volt DC stuff is the smaller box with the automotive-type plug-in fuses. The 12 volt fuse for the refrigerator (this runs the logic control circuit board, propane gas control and ignitor, and the refrigerator interior and status lights, along with all the refrigerator fans. This fuse also runs the range top lights and fan, in my rig.
I had a very maddening intermittent blowing of this 12 volt refrigerator power fuse a long time ago that I finally found the intermittent shorting (usually during road vibrations) of the red power wire to the refrigerator outside 12 volt terminal strip. The wire was routed TIGHTLY around the metal (12 volt grounded) base of the refrigerator to where the red insulation of the wire (out of sight inside the radius of the wire bend) had rubbed and chafed against the grounded metal base to where it intermittently shorted and blew the fuse. I would arrive at my destination with the refrigerator fuse blown, the refrigerator not working, and inserting a new fuse seemed to solve the problem.