50 Amp 12,000 Watt Booster with Advanced Surge Protection vs. EMS-PT50X Portable EMS-PT50X RV Surge Protector

[BrianBP]

I need help making a decision on which EMS to purchase. I would like to choose one or the other and not choose both. Please give me your thoughts on:

Hughes autofomer 50 Amp 12,000 Watt Booster with Advanced Surge Protection vs. Progressive industries EMS-PT50X Portable EMS-PT50X RV Surge Protector.


Looking over the posts it seems that progressive industries is more popular.

Looking forward to comments.

Thanks

 

[LBR]

You may have a plethora of comments steering you to the PI, not the portable style, but rather the HW series.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Brian,

The Hughes Booster has additional capability at a higher price point. If pedestal voltage drops below 105V, the Hughes Booster will adjust the voltage coming out of the Booster up 10% so you can safely run all your A/C units and other appliances. The Progressive doesn't have this capability. When voltage drops below 105V, it shuts off power to protect the coach.

If you camp in hot, humid locations in the summer, the Hughes may be worth the extra money. When everyone turns on 2 or 3 air conditioners, in many locations, voltage drops.

 

[wdk450]

Hi Brian,

The Hughes Booster has additional capability at a higher price point. If pedestal voltage drops below 105V, the Hughes Booster will adjust the voltage coming out of the Booster up 10% so you can safely run all your A/C units and other appliances. The Progressive doesn't have this capability. When voltage drops below 105V, it shuts off power to protect the coach.

If you camp in hot, humid locations in the summer, the Hughes may be worth the extra money. When everyone turns on 2 or 3 air conditioners, in many locations, voltage drops.

Just be aware that watts is watts. If you have less voltage available, more current will be drawn from the shorepower outlet to supply the needed watts. Watts = Amps x Voltage. Assume the power drawn number (watts) to be a constant. This probably isn't an issue with RV 50 amp service (RV standard is 2 phases of 50 amps - i.e. 100 amps total) versus regular RV 30 amp (single phase - 30 amps total) service.

I have stayed at certain RV parks that say they don't allow the use of autoformers (but then have an ad for the autoformer distributer) in their park map handout/rules.

 

[Dawnnira]

I'm a fan of the Hughes autoformer had it now 6 years hardwired in, if you use it or any other HW unit- depending on your RV I have it sitting behind the wall right behind my dishwasher closet upon entry into the rv. Install a sacrificial Intermatic Spike box, I positioned everything facing our closet and cut a 12x12 clear plexiglass so you can see the status lights by opening our entry closet. We have stayed in a campground in a storm that got hit with some kind of lightning strike or something to wear it burned out my plug in but the Intermatic save the entire rig, like Dan said...cost more but worth it to me

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[BrianBP]

Just be aware that watts is watts. If you have less voltage available, more current will be drawn from the shorepower outlet to supply the needed watts. Watts = Amps x Voltage. Assume the power drawn number (watts) to be a constant. This probably isn't an issue with RV 50 amp service (RV standard is 2 phases of 50 amps - i.e. 100 amps total) versus regular RV 30 amp (single phase - 30 amps total) service.

I have stayed at certain RV parks that say they don't allow the use of autoformers (but then have an ad for the autoformer distributer) in their park map handout/rules.

From the Hughes website: https://hughesautoformers.com/autoformer-university/how-does-it-work/

[h=2]How Does It Work?[/h]At first we are tempted to say very ‘well’. But this may not be the answer you are looking for!
Autoformers are used in industries to stabilize voltage and lower the operating cost of equipment. The Autoformer has 5 windings: 2 primary and 3 secondary. All models have surge and spike protection. When the unit is in Automatic and the park or input voltage is 116 volts or below, the output is 10% over the input. When the input is over 118 volts, the output is 2% over the input.
The Autoformer DOES NOT take power from the park.
It does not affect the park or input voltage, or make electricity.
What it is doing is changing the voltage – amperage relationship, lowering the amperage and raising the voltage. Since appliances run better on higher voltage, lower amperage, less overall power is used from the park, and better service is enjoyed from your RV
An Autoformer running at full output (50amps) will use 1 amp, but will cause appliances to cycle more often and run cooler. This will use less total power from the park.
Enjoy Your Autoformer Knowing You Are Doing Your Part For The Environment.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks everyone for your input.

I have decided to go with the Huges Autoformer. If I have any problems, I will surely post about it.

 

[porthole]

I have a Progressive HW50 EMS
I have a Hughes 50 amp Autoformer

They are not the same thing. If I could only have one it would be the Progressive EMS
The progressive protects against multiple power issues:

Product Features:
• Over/Under voltage Protection
• Open Ground, Open Neutral & Reverse Polarity Detection
• Open Ground, Open Neutral & Reverse Polarity Protection
• Accidental 240V Protection
• Miswired Pedestal Indication
• Surge Failure Indicator
• Amperage Meter Display
• Previous Error Code
• A/C Frequency Protection
• Time Delay (136 seconds)
• Adjustable Time Delay
• Thermally Protected
• Built-in Scrolling Digital Display
• Remote Display
• Field Servicable
• UL Certified and Canadian Approved
• Lifetime Warranty


I use the Progressive every time I plug in (it is hardwired)
I Use the Autoformer only when I think there is a problem.

And there are times I think the Autoformer may not be working as well as advertised.

 

[wdk450]

I had a situation on 30 amp RV power one time that my Progressive hardwired system detected, and other RV's in the same campground loop with the same faulty electrical feed had NO IDEA WAS HAPPENING. My EMS tripped off with a code saying "Reversed Polarity" a couple of days after I had arrived at the park. I got my DVM out and measured 240 volts to ground on the NEUTRAL connection and 120 volts to ground on the HOT connection on my and the other outlets in the loop. This was on a summer holiday weekend, the park maintenance couldn't fix it and had to call in the power company electricians who arrived on monday. Problem was faulty ground and neutral bonding in the loop area power transformer/field panel. This bad voltage would come and go. If not for my Progressive EMS the campground and other RVers probably would not have learned of it for a while.

 

[SNOKING]

I agree that the PI should be on all 50amp installation. Closer to the panel the better, that is why I installed the HW version. It protects you from a lost neutral in the power reel, cord and park wiring. Loose neutral and you fry all ac items with 240 volts. Chris

 

[BrianBP]

I had a situation on 30 amp RV power one time that my Progressive hardwired system detected, and other RV's in the same campground loop with the same faulty electrical feed had NO IDEA WAS HAPPENING. My EMS tripped off with a code saying "Reversed Polarity" a couple of days after I had arrived at the park. I got my DVM out and measured 240 volts to ground on the NEUTRAL connection and 120 volts to ground on the HOT connection on my and the other outlets in the loop. This was on a summer holiday weekend, the park maintenance couldn't fix it and had to call in the power company electricians who arrived on monday. Problem was faulty ground and neutral bonding in the loop area power transformer/field panel. This bad voltage would come and go. If not for my Progressive EMS the campground and other RVers probably would not have learned of it for a while.

Bill,

From the manual: . Turn on the park circuit breaker and check that the amber diagnosticlight is on. If it’s not, do not use this power source. Instead, report itto the park authorities so they can inspect it.3. If the amber light is on, you now know the power is safe to use. Turnpark power off again and plug your RV into the Autoformer

I then called and talked to one of the engineers. The key to the autoformer is checking those lights before plugging in the coach.

You are exactly right though that the autformer will not disconnect like the progressive does.

Thanks
Brian

 

[SNOKING]

Huges is redefining what I learn about electricity in the USCG.

 

[wdk450]

Bill,

From the manual: . Turn on the park circuit breaker and check that the amber diagnosticlight is on. If it’s not, do not use this power source. Instead, report itto the park authorities so they can inspect it.3. If the amber light is on, you now know the power is safe to use. Turnpark power off again and plug your RV into the Autoformer

I then called and talked to one of the engineers. The key to the autoformer is checking those lights before plugging in the coach.

You are exactly right though that the autformer will not disconnect like the progressive does.

Thanks
Brian

Brian:
This amber check light sounds like it will do the job, but the situation I described came and went repeatedly days after I had initially hooked up. I don't know that the autoformer would have let you know of the problem.

 

[BrianBP]

Brian:
This amber check light sounds like it will do the job, but the situation I described came and went repeatedly days after I had initially hooked up. I don't know that the autoformer would have let you know of the problem.

Bill,
Whoa! I did not think about it coming and going. I was just thinking that if the post is OK when initially plugged into then it would be OK from then on. Thanks so much for giving me the detail on this. I am definitely re-thinking having the Autoformer as a stand alone. I really did not want to, but I can see the utility of having both the autoformer and the Progressive.

Seems expensive till I think about being in the middle of Alaska with a fried electrical system.

- - - Updated - - -

Hi Brian,

The Hughes Booster has additional capability at a higher price point. If pedestal voltage drops below 105V, the Hughes Booster will adjust the voltage coming out of the Booster up 10% so you can safely run all your A/C units and other appliances. The Progressive doesn't have this capability. When voltage drops below 105V, it shuts off power to protect the coach.

If you camp in hot, humid locations in the summer, the Hughes may be worth the extra money. When everyone turns on 2 or 3 air conditioners, in many locations, voltage drops.

Dan,
Do you use the autofomer alone, or do you additional have a progressive?
Thanks
Brian

 

[danemayer]

- - -

Dan,
Do you use the autofomer alone, or do you additional have a progressive?
Thanks
Brian

Brian,

I have a portable Progressive unit. If I were doing summer camping in high temp/high humidity locations, I'd consider an autoformer. But most of the time I'm in the mid 70s with stable power.