A Good Reminder of the Value of a Progressive EMS

[jmgratz]

Right on ... I like the portable one because I can put it on the pedestal before I even pull in the campsite to check it out. If it is not right I can move to another site or even another campground. It has saved us numerous times.

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

I am wondering if there is a simple plug in line tester for a 50 amp service to check all the stuff for you if you have the hard wired unit. Kind of like the simple 15 amp plug in things but with a few more tests. I guess one could buy the portable surge protector to use for the check, but I dont have the extra bucks to spend. Anyone know of anything like that?

 

[kakampers]

I am wondering if there is a simple plug in line tester for a 50 amp service to check all the stuff for you if you have the hard wired unit. Kind of like the simple 15 amp plug in things but with a few more tests. I guess one could buy the portable surge protector to use for the check, but I dont have the extra bucks to spend. Anyone know of anything like that?

We just plug in before even unhooking...then if our 50 amp, hardwired Progressive tells us there is a problem with the pedestal, we move to another site....

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

We just plug in before even unhooking...then if our 50 amp, hardwired Progressive tells us there is a problem with the pedestal, we move to another site....

good idea there. however with my driving skills it usually takes a few tries to back in. guess I had better get better! but then would a simple voltmeter work I wonder? at least it would give the voltage

 

[donr827]

Right on ... I like the portable one because I can put it on the pedestal before I even pull in the campsite to check it out. If it is not right I can move to another site or even another campground. It has saved us numerous times.

Ditto for me. We have also used the same one on two different 5th wheels.
Don

 

[jmgratz]

The simple voltmeter will tell you if the voltage is high or low but it will not tell you of an open ground or high or low frequency. The EMS will do all of that.

 

[EandJ]

I am leaning toward the portable 30 amp version. Only concern is it walking away. Has anybody figured out a way to secure it to the pedestal? A lock or bicycle cable of some sort? Just thinking out loud here.

 

[GOTTOYS]

I am leaning toward the portable 30 amp version. Only concern is it walking away. Has anybody figured out a way to secure it to the pedestal? A lock or bicycle cable of some sort? Just thinking out loud here.

Progressive units have a tab on them with a hole for a padlock. You can wrap a chain around the post and padlock it. Actually you can forget the tab and just use a long shank padlock around the electrical cable and attach a chain that way also...Don

 

[EandJ]

Progressive units have a tab on them with a hole for a padlock. You can wrap a chain around the post and padlock it. Actually you can forget the tab and just use a long shank padlock around the electrical cable and attach a chain that way also...Don

Thank you for the answer. That settles it for me - going with the portable unit.

 

[For20hunter]

The problem is that it is just a plastic composite material, I believe, so that would just keep an honest man honest.

 

[Silverado23]

The progressive hardwired units are repairable in the field as everything is modular. The portable units would need to be sent off for repairs. Having the hardwired units also make it less tempting to plug-in without protection. Nothing like a fried RV with a good EMS sitting around in the storage compartment unused..

 

[iowaone]

Good point Silverado 23!

 

[TXBobcat]

WellI have a different take on surge protectors. I have a portable Surge Guard. If I went back when I purchased it I would have probably purchased a Progressive. Not because I have had a serious problem with the Surge Guard. Mine was making a rattling noise and I wanted to get it replaced. Called Surge Guard. The would give me a discount on a new one but not replace it for free. I heard from another that had a Progressive and theirs was replace with out any question.

If you use a portable and lock it down, then the person that is going to steal it can pull it off the pedestal, pull it off your trailer and be gone. If you lock it down to the pedistal all it takes is a good cable cutter to cut the cable and take off with the whole thing. They are not worried if it works, just the copper. I do not lock mine. Since we have been fulltiming we have never lost one or heard of someone loosing one.

As for an internal or external I would rather the surge protector distroy itself on the outside of my trailer rather than on the inside. If it caught fire, I have a problem. If it is just distroyed then I have to climb inside and take it out. As to fixing one. You would need the parts and you would have to rewire the cable back in until you had the parts or a new unit sent to you. I do like the ability to place the read out in the coach so it can be viewed when you enter or are inside.

The external I can remove and connect back into the power source if it were a temporary problem. I can also go to the nearest RV Parts and get me another, plug it in and I am done...

Surge Guard external now has readouts on the body of the suppresor. Having to keep up with Progressive. Competition is great.

This is what we do. Hope my thoughts are helpful

BC

 

[Silverado23]

The progressive ems hardwired surge protectors are designed to be able to be bypassed with a flip of the switch. Their techs can also instruct you how to manually override the relay if even the relay were to fail so there is not really a need to rewire the cable back in the event of a failure. If your surge protector did stop functioning because of a power issue, are you really going to bypass the ems and allow bad power into your RV risk damaging your appliances and electronics.

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Very happy with the hard wired progressive. Lifetime warranty.
One very cold day here a couple months ago most of my neighbors turned on their electric fireplaces. I had this thin trip about 15 times because of low power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[rgwilliams69]

I am thinking about installing the on-board one for my 4100 King. Quick question though - if there are power problems in a CG that damage your rig is the campground liable? Anyone ever run into a situation like that? Also do extended warranty or insurance (like with a brick and mortar house) cover damage? We had a tree trimming company drop a high voltage line across our TV cable line a few years back and fried dang near everything in the house. But insurance covered it. I'm wondering if that same situation had happened at a campground what the outcome would be.

Thanks!

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Even if the campground were responsible and liable, I would not the hassle of having to replace "stuff" even at someone else's expense, be it campground or insurance. And if my insurance were to cover the damage done I would still have to pay a deductible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[jmgratz]

I am thinking about installing the on-board one for my 4100 King. Quick question though - if there are power problems in a CG that damage your rig is the campground liable? Anyone ever run into a situation like that? Also do extended warranty or insurance (like with a brick and mortar house) cover damage? We had a tree trimming company drop a high voltage line across our TV cable line a few years back and fried dang near everything in the house. But insurance covered it. I'm wondering if that same situation had happened at a campground what the outcome would be.

Thanks!

We had a problem where there was a surge in the middle of the night that destroyed our Microwave/Convection oven, converter, Television, clock radio and bedroom TV. We did not put on our EMS as we had camped at this campground before and 'trusted' the power. The campground knew there was an issue and would not do anything to help with the replacements. Luckily my warranties and insurance paid for all of the replacements so I was only out $75 for a deductible. It was not worth the cost of a Lawyer to force the campground to pay. I now always use the Progressive EMS even if we are positive of the power because the campground do not control the power company and their feed to the campground.

 

[Silverado23]

Here is a link to an electrical protection equipment manufacterer in the UK that offers an explanation of power issues and their effect on equipment.http://www.ashleyedison.com/voltage-power-problems.htm

 

[danemayer]

if there are power problems in a CG that damage your rig is the campground liable?

I doubt you could easily prove the campground was at fault. For many problems, there's probably no way after the fact to tell exactly what happened, much less who's at fault. In the unlikely event that the campground paid, you would likely get the actual cash (depreciated) value rather than replacement cost. That would be an unpleasant outcome.

Add up all the lost money and aggravation, loss of use, ruined trip and $400 for an EMS sounds better and better.

We all worry about surges, but there are many other electrical problems that can occur and may be even more likely to cause damage.

Here's what the Progressive EMS does for you:

High/Low Voltage Protection:

Whenever AC power falls below 104 volts, or rises above 132 volts, the EMS automatically shuts down power to the RV. The EMS will monitor the power and once the AC power rises above 104 volts, or below the 132 volt level, the time delay indicator flashes for the preset time and then automatically restores power to the RV.

Time Delay for A/C Compressor:

If the AC power is interrupted, or the EMS detects a fault condition, the built-in time delay is activated. There is 136-second (02:16) time delay.

5-Mode Surge Protection:

This feature provides full surge protection L-N, L-N, L-G, L-L and N-G. Total Joule rating is 3,580, 88,000A surge current. Response time of <1 nano second.

Surge Indicator:

In the event of a power surge, and the surge protector circuit is damaged within the EMS, L-N or L-G, the digital display error code will read E-10. This indicates the EMS needs to be serviced.

Reverse Polarity Protection:

If AC power is a reverse polarity condition, the EMS will not allow power to the RV and the error code will read E-1.

Open Neutral Protection:

If AC power has an open neutral condition, the display will not light, and the EMS will not allow power to the RV.

Open Ground Protection:

If AC power has an open ground condition, the EMS will read an error code of E-2 and power will not be allowed to the RV.

AC Frequency Protection:

If AC power frequency deviates +/- 9 hertz from 60 cycles per second, the EMS will shut down power. An error code of E-7 will be displayed when the frequency is high; and an error code will be displayed when frequency is low.

Accidental 240V Protection:

If 240 volts is detected when plugging into AC power, the EMS will NOT allow power to the RV. If this condition occurs while power is applied to the RV, the EMS shuts off power instantly. The display will read the voltage and E-3 for the error. (NEVER BYPASS THE EMS WHEN THIS OCCURS.)