Air Bags- For A Different Reason

westxsrt10

Perfict Senior Member
Question. How did you raise your Sundance? Since it sits 2" higher and that raises the center of gravity, did you notice any towing changes?

I looked at the suspension on our 5er and there does not seem to be any adjustments on the shackles.

I placed a 2" square tubing block 1/4" thick wall between the axle and leaf spring. (DYI) The blocks are pinned in the center, bought longer u-bolts @ Summit. I also bought taller wheels and tires to raise it another inch. My overall height is still only 12', it pulls no differiant than stock ( maybe better because the RV's axle weight is more balanced and level with the road.
 

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JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
"Flipping the axles" is one method.

Are your axles currently sitting on top of the springs?
Moving them to the bottom will raise the trailer by that difference, probably 3-4".

But doing so you open your self up to other problems, mainly the additional stress on all the suspension components, especially the shackles and where they mount to the frame.

I took a look under the trailer today. The leaf springs are already on top of the axles, so "flipping the axles" is not an option.


On my 04.5 2500 and on my current 3500 DRW I had the blocks removed and placed on the under side of the springs. That way the same shackles work. I have never had any issues with over 200,000 km on both trucks. You can go to the Dodge Cummins Forum and do a search on lowering your rear end and find a very good write up.

My concern about removing the blocks is that the truck will now sit low in the rear, once the pin weight is applied. I guess I need to put a tape measure to the the truck, when the trailer is hooked up. By removing the blocks, did this level your Dodge?
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
I placed a 2" square tubing block between the axle and leaf spring. The blocks are pinned in the center, bought longer u-bolts @ Summit. I also bought taller wheels and tires to raise it another inch. My overall height is still only 12', it pulls no differiant than stock ( maybe better because the RV's axle weight is more balanced and level with the road.

This looks like a simple and cost effective way to gain 2" What is the thickness of the square tubing? Did you do this yourself?

Thanks
 

Sandpirate69

Well-known member
Can you explain that?
Absolutely, An air-ride suspension without heavy duty shocks will bounce. When I say air-suspension, I mean taking off your complete leaf packs. I have a couple of friends who have full air-ride suspensions (front & rear) on Dodge & Fords and their trucks bounce going down the road. I don't mean bounce to where you're jumping in the seat but you will feel a spring like effect inside the cab. They have now installed expensive double & triple inverted shocks to remove 90% of the bounce. If I get a chance I will post the pics. These trucks are lifted and by no means would they be able to tow comfortable. Nothing against air-bags, I have a set.
 

porthole

Retired
Absolutely, An air-ride suspension without heavy duty shocks will bounce. When I say air-suspension, I mean taking off your complete leaf packs. I have a couple of friends who have full air-ride suspensions (front & rear) on Dodge & Fords and their trucks bounce going down the road. I don't mean bounce to where you're jumping in the seat but you will feel a spring like effect inside the cab. They have now installed expensive double & triple inverted shocks to remove 90% of the bounce. If I get a chance I will post the pics. These trucks are lifted and by no means would they be able to tow comfortable. Nothing against air-bags, I have a set.

Your talking about a different animal here. Just using SD's for example, I am still amazed at the number of people that spend 45-65K on a "diesel" truck and then lift it anywhere from 6-12 inches over stock, add tires that are grossly over sized and then expect anything but less then perfect ride.
You cannot add over-sized tires and lift without "shocking" correctly. The un-sprung weight difference alone will cause the issues you are referring too. Besides, after doing all that work the diesel just becomes "bling"

Two of the air ride kits I have looked at include shocks that match application. One kit has shocks that adjust the damping in relation to the air in the system.
Air ride gives you the advantage of adjusting the ride height to the load. Something normal springs cannot do.

There is a reason many OTR trucks and trailers have air ride.
 

PUG

Pug
Looking at your photos, I can't see why you can't adjust the hitch a down say an inch. Seldom do you get in a twist that would neeed more clearance. My Cyclone had less clearance from trl to bed rails than yours does. Another idea is to raise trl axles where the trl sits up higher.
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
Looking at your photos, I can't see why you can't adjust the hitch a down say an inch. Seldom do you get in a twist that would neeed more clearance. My Cyclone had less clearance from trl to bed rails than yours does. Another idea is to raise trl axles where the trl sits up higher.

I might try adjusting the Reese hitch down an inch, or what ever the next adjustment on the hitch gives me. I do have some twisting when I back into our home campground. Most of the sites are on a slope and when backing in, I do have clearance issues.

I'm getting the truck inspected here soon and I'm going to see if they can pull the blocks in the rear. Hopefully that will get things level.
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
Jamie, Are you able to raise the king pin box on your 5vr ? If you can that will lower the nose of the 5vr. Most king pin boxes have multiple bolt holes that allow adjustment as stated. Just be sure you still have side clearance when you make tight turns so the king pin box does not contact the TV bed rails. If you are not sure, take it to a competant shop that you are positive can answer or do the job. I would not change truck geometry to level your rig, in MO.
 
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