This last week I replaced the Anderson KantLeak selector valve. It was hard to turn and filling my freshwater tank. Then two days later we had a leak from around my freshwater pump. So, I replaced the pump and screen. Now we have lots of air in the lines. If I turn off the pump or the city water, there is enough air in the line that water will continue to come out for 5-10 seconds. What is the best way to bleed all the air out of the system on a Torque M-290? we are currently living in it while looking for a new house so down time in the RV to fix something is not an option.
Air in lines after pump and valve replacement.
- Thread starter RRRep
- Start date
LBR
Well-known member
First Question...did you buy it new or used?
If you have H&C hookups for a washer/dryer, put a garden hose on each to bleed air from lines unless you have a washer hooked up already.
Don't forget the H&C outdoor shower/hose hookup for bleeding off air. Also, if you have another C water hookup (usually on the DS) for a hose, make sure to bleed it also.
Several answers for you.
1. I bought the Torque used in January.
2. I bought the new Anderson KantLeak valve new from Amazon.
3. I bought the pump and screen new from Campworld yesterday.
I have no washer connections. I did try to use the outside shower to bleed of air but that did not help.
Inside I only have the toilet, shower, bathroom sink and kitchen sink for water connections.
does it matter is you run the water fast of slow to get the air out?
1. I bought the Torque used in January.
2. I bought the new Anderson KantLeak valve new from Amazon.
3. I bought the pump and screen new from Campworld yesterday.
I have no washer connections. I did try to use the outside shower to bleed of air but that did not help.
Inside I only have the toilet, shower, bathroom sink and kitchen sink for water connections.
does it matter is you run the water fast of slow to get the air out?
david-steph2018
Well-known member
Go to the faucet farthest downstream and turn it on. Then you will need to work back towards the water inlet point.
If you have recently drained and refilled the HW tank then you may have a lot of air coming from that. Generally it will be only on the HW side however. You may want to insure that you HW bypass valves are in the correct position if the RV has recently been winterized.
wdk450
Well-known member
Have you tried running all water lines one at a time starting from the lowest in elevation to the highest in elevation (Shower?)??
Are all of your water connections tight and leak free, especially on the low pressure (fill ) side of the pump and valve, so that new air is not being sucked into the system??? Do your problems mainly happen on Tank pump or on shore source water?
Are all of your water connections tight and leak free, especially on the low pressure (fill ) side of the pump and valve, so that new air is not being sucked into the system??? Do your problems mainly happen on Tank pump or on shore source water?
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