Anode or custom drain plug on Suburban Hot Water Heater?

wb2nco

Member
My 2011 T22 Focus is in storage so I cannot verfiy- I owned a Jayco prior to our Northtrail T22. The Jayco used an Atwood Hot water heater (aluminum tank) and I presume that now I have a Suburban hot water heater (steel tank) in our NorthTrail T22. When we purchased the trailer new last year (2013) and decided to remove the original anode rod and go for a custom installed open close stainless drain line with a handy shut off valve. It makes it easy to drain the water entirely out of the tank before traveling or placing in storage.

After further research I see that Suburban HWH is a steel tank and are prone to more corrosion over time. Although I have faithfully drained the tank after every time we camped with my mod, I am concerned that I should place the original anode back in. Does it matter as long as I drain the tank? This last year I have noticed that there is a little brownish colored water comes out when I begin to drain it and then goes clear. Should I put the original anode back in since it is a Suburban tank?
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
X2. After using our BH 100 days over the past year running water from 40-50 sources thru the WH pretty much ate up the anode rod. Replaced it when I drained the tank after end of last extended trip earlier this month.


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danemayer

Well-known member
The amount of damage to your tank is unknown; maybe nothing, maybe a lot. If the tank has been damaged, a minor leak could show up without any warning. Even a minor leak can over time cause extensive damage to the wood under the water heater and sometimes in surrounding areas.

You might want to periodically inspect the underbelly and the area under the water heater for signs of water leaks.
 

Ks.Kev

Well-known member
I have a 2013 Northtrail 22FBS (bought new last October) and The hot water heater DOES NOT have the Anode rod in it! All it has is a plastic bolt that screws in the drain. I thought this was odd..... RV's that I had before always had the anode rod in it. SO, I'm thinking maybe it was a cost cutting measure and the manufacturer left it out! Anybody else have this plastic plug in theirs? Anyway, I will go down to the local RV store and buy a anode rod and put it in there just to be on the safe side........ better safe than sorry!!!!
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
I have a 2013 Northtrail 22FBS (bought new last October) and The hot water heater DOES NOT have the Anode rod in it! All it has is a plastic bolt that screws in the drain. I thought this was odd..... RV's that I had before always had the anode rod in it. SO, I'm thinking maybe it was a cost cutting measure and the manufacturer left it out! Anybody else have this plastic plug in theirs? Anyway, I will go down to the local RV store and buy a anode rod and put it in there just to be on the safe side........ better safe than sorry!!!!

I'd be willing to bet you have a Atwood Water Heater and no need for the anode rod.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
If it has one in, keep it in and replace it annually or as needed. If it DOES NOT have one DO NOT PUT ONE IN. The two metals (tank and rod) will weld the rod in over time and you will not get it out again.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I have a 2013 Northtrail 22FBS (bought new last October) and The hot water heater DOES NOT have the Anode rod in it! All it has is a plastic bolt that screws in the drain. I thought this was odd..... RV's that I had before always had the anode rod in it. SO, I'm thinking maybe it was a cost cutting measure and the manufacturer left it out! Anybody else have this plastic plug in theirs? Anyway, I will go down to the local RV store and buy a anode rod and put it in there just to be on the safe side........ better safe than sorry!!!!
Suburban Water Heaters use an anode rod. Atwood Water Heaters have a different tank design and do not use anode rods.
 

Lou_and_Bette

Well-known member
You just got to love this forum...I don't need to know everything about my rig, I have 1000's of experts to give me the best advice and direction to keep me going down the road efficiently and safely
 

mayflower

Member
The water heater in our 2014 Bighorn is a Suburban. The WH plug and anode rod threads are rusted. How do you deal with this? This trailer is new and I don't care for the rust. I'm thinking this will only get worse with use. Should I take it back to the dealer for a new hot water heater???
 

danemayer

Well-known member
The water heater in our 2014 Bighorn is a Suburban. The WH plug and anode rod threads are rusted. How do you deal with this? This trailer is new and I don't care for the rust. I'm thinking this will only get worse with use. Should I take it back to the dealer for a new hot water heater???
Seems like it would be a lot easier to clean the threads and wrap with teflon tape so removal is easy. I've been doing that for 4 years and I'm sure many others do the same.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
If the rust really bothers you, get a Dremel tool and a small wire wheel brush and clean it. Then use the teflon tape. But the rust will eventually return since it's plain, unplated steel exposed to hot water on one end and the elements on the other.


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TandT

Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
I always use this instead of teflon tape. (RECTORSEAL5) It is deemed safe for potable water applications.

IMHO it is much easier to use and actually facilitates easier installation of threaded objects. Trace
 

Westwind

Well-known member
We winter in Florida for 4 months in a resort that has well water, we use two carbon household filters and a water softener before our water hits the hot water tank which is a Suburban. I flush (highly recommended) my tank when I return home and change out the Anode Rod, my estimate was that we used 85% of the rode in 4 months which surprised me. I now carry a spare and replace one every camping season.
Since we do travel and hit different water types I would recommend checking it every 4 to6 months. This year it really wore down quicker then I thought it would.
 

SeattleLion

Well-known member
Seems like it would be a lot easier to clean the threads and wrap with teflon tape so removal is easy. I've been doing that for 4 years and I'm sure many others do the same.

Bear in mind that teflon tape is an insulator and may affect the electrolytic action needed to prevent tank damage. I suggest you clean the threads with steel wool and a bit of oil and then put a new rod in. If you think that seepage into the threads is causing the rust, then instead of teflon tape, use a liquid pipe compound (available in plumbing supply stores). I use one that has teflon in it. the advantage is that the compound only goes into gaps in the threads. There is metal-to-metal contact on the threads themselves.
 
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