Dahillbilly
Well-known member
what's the cure for replacing the screws holding the awing rail to the RV, majority of mine are just spinning in the holes. Surprised it hasn't pulled away from the RV.
awning rail screws
- Thread starter Dahillbilly
- Start date
Bogie
Well-known member
Robert,
I looked for slightly heavier stainless steel screws with course threads. Shot a little silicone in the hole before putting the new one in. All were screwed in by hand only to insure they weren't over torqued. I only changed the the screws that were a problem. Fortunately only a few.
I looked for slightly heavier stainless steel screws with course threads. Shot a little silicone in the hole before putting the new one in. All were screwed in by hand only to insure they weren't over torqued. I only changed the the screws that were a problem. Fortunately only a few.
Dahillbilly
Well-known member
was installed at the factory one would think they would know where to mount it. But thanks for your reply
wdk450
Well-known member
What about injecting some expanding urethane glue (Gorilla glue) into the screw holes (with a spritz of water before to help activate the expanding urethane), letting stuff set at least overnight (2 days better) then running the screws back into the "repaired" screw hole??? Probably best to drill small pilot holes in the dried urethane glue plug, even if the screws are self tapping. You will probably have to trim the excess expanded urethane glue on the tops of the screw holes with a sharp knife.
LBR
Well-known member
Our CY is designed where the front awning had to be mounted about 6" lower than the rear awning because of roof taper and bedroom window placement. Unfortunately the screws were factory mounted thru just the exterior wall without any tooth into anything substantial like the rear awning was.
3 years ago, I had to figure out how to battle this same issue. I pulled it loose and suspended it in place with the arms, cleaned the wall and mounting plate up, then used the correct size of plastic drywall inserts and the removed screws with a clutched drill. All screws came reasonably tight without spin-outs.
3 years ago, I had to figure out how to battle this same issue. I pulled it loose and suspended it in place with the arms, cleaned the wall and mounting plate up, then used the correct size of plastic drywall inserts and the removed screws with a clutched drill. All screws came reasonably tight without spin-outs.
Routemaster
Well-known member
How about Rivet Nuts
Dahillbilly
Well-known member
I'm afraid that those or pop rivets would crack the exterior wall from the pressure exerted on it.
Dahillbilly
Well-known member
LBR
Well-known member
Correct....I ran the awning out the 6-8" to allow a straight shot into screws with drill. Then I threw 2 long small nylon ropes attached to the arms over the roof and tied off. This keeps the awning in the same place for when all screws are removed, so you can still reach over and under the awning roll the full length.
I didn't want to enlargen the old holes for bigger screws....so the small blue drywall inserts added enough bite to help screws bite hard, but didn't crack the siding any. Set them all in with a small hammer, applied sealing tape full length on the metal, and attached all screws with a very weak drill clutch setting.....followed up by hand for a feel of tightness.
Our awning was compromised by a surprise mini-cyclone...was fully extended on a fairly still morning and the wind closed it almost fully. When the awning struts extended, it went all the way back out HARD and pulled many screws loose.
Dahillbilly
Well-known member
thanks for the reply sounds like a good plan , fall job after camping season is overCorrect....I ran the awning out the 6-8" to allow a straight shot into screws with drill. Then I threw 2 long small nylon ropes attached to the arms over the roof and tied off. This keeps the awning in the same place for when all screws are removed, so you can still reach over and under the awning roll the full length.
I didn't want to enlargen the old holes for bigger screws....so the small blue drywall inserts added enough bite to help screws bite hard, but didn't crack the siding any. Set them all in with a small hammer, applied sealing tape full length on the metal, and attached all screws with a very weak drill clutch setting.....followed up by hand for a feel of tightness.
Our awning was compromised by a surprise mini-cyclone...was fully extended on a fairly still morning and the wind closed it almost fully. When the awning struts extended, it went all the way back out HARD and pulled many screws loose.
Routemaster
Well-known member
I don't know if this has been suggested yet here is another idea what about buying some lengths for example 1"x1/8"thick aluminum bar and finding the studs and attaching that to the wall then fixing the rail to that with 10/32 machine screws?
What do you reckon?
Den
What do you reckon?
Den
LBR
Well-known member
That would work great also...
I have used these when a larger screw will not work. This is what Dometic recommends.
