Not a happy camper. We picked up our Bighorn in November and set it in my driveway and noticed right away the jack on the off side of the door had a problem losing pressure. Took it back to the dealer they kept it for 3 days and said there wasn't a problem. Took it out over the holidays and the same thing. That is the side with the 3 slideouts and can't keep it level. After we got back we took it to another dealership. They changed that jack out and something about the valve. We are on spring break now and we have the same problem, tired of sleeping on my head. Need some suggestions, is it me or is it the jack.
Bighorn Hydraulic Jacks
- Thread starter TheRameys
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi TheRameys,
Is this an auto-leveling system or is it front hydraulic jacks only? The reason I ask is that the operation and function is different. If you have front hydraulic jacks only, side-to-side leveling is done with the wheels, using blocks if needed. The front jacks provide front-to-rear leveling. I believe the fluid that extends the jacks is shared by both jacks and equalizes between the two jacks.
So if the rear of the coach is level left-to-right, the front should be level left-to-right. I'd suggest finding a level concrete location. Use a carpenter's level to check that the floor is level inside at both the rear of the coach and at the front of the coach. Try first with the trailer still sitting on the truck. Then unhitch and set up as normal to see if it stays level left-to-right.
If you're not level when hooked to the truck, try measuring the distance from bottom of the slides to concrete with slides in and again with them out. Maybe you have sag in the suspension.
Now if you have auto-leveling, each jack is probably independent and you may need a zero-calibration for it to auto-level correctly.
Is this an auto-leveling system or is it front hydraulic jacks only? The reason I ask is that the operation and function is different. If you have front hydraulic jacks only, side-to-side leveling is done with the wheels, using blocks if needed. The front jacks provide front-to-rear leveling. I believe the fluid that extends the jacks is shared by both jacks and equalizes between the two jacks.
So if the rear of the coach is level left-to-right, the front should be level left-to-right. I'd suggest finding a level concrete location. Use a carpenter's level to check that the floor is level inside at both the rear of the coach and at the front of the coach. Try first with the trailer still sitting on the truck. Then unhitch and set up as normal to see if it stays level left-to-right.
If you're not level when hooked to the truck, try measuring the distance from bottom of the slides to concrete with slides in and again with them out. Maybe you have sag in the suspension.
Now if you have auto-leveling, each jack is probably independent and you may need a zero-calibration for it to auto-level correctly.
We just have the front hydraulic jacks. When I set it up in my driveway it's just a little bit off but, after a day or so it starts going down on the off door side which is where the three slides are. I talked to Lippert and the lady there was talking about a cylinder bypass test. We have had it set up since Monday and the same thing is happening, feels like we are sleeping on our heads. It's been in the shop more then we have had it and they won't even make a payment on it.
danemayer
Well-known member
Since the 2nd dealer changed the front jack, the cause of the problem may be elsewhere. Why don't you set aside for the moment the idea that the cause of the problem is in the front jacks. If the cause is elsewhere, insisting on fixing the front jacks will just add to your frustration. Focus on the symptom and see if you can narrow down the possible causes.
If you leave it hitched to the truck and run the slides out, and let it sit, do you have the same problem? If it happens when the jacks are not supporting the rig, that would eliminate the front jacks from the equation.
Have you eliminated the possibility that the problem is in the rear of the coach?
1. Level it again.
2. Take a carpenter's level and check the floor, inside, at the rear to see if the floor is level, left-to-right.
3. Check the floor at the middle of the coach.
3. Check the floor at the front of the coach.
If it's not level, at the rear, keep going until it is level. If the middle and front are level, wait until it starts doing down on the off-door side.
4. Use the carpenter's level to recheck the rear, middle and front.
If the rear is still level, but the front is no longer level, there's something going on at the front.
If the rear is no longer level, there's something going on at the rear.
If you do these simple things, you should be able to come to a high degree of confidence as to whether there actually is a problem with the front jacks.
pegmikef
Well-known member
When we were thinking of fivers both the Big Country and Big Horn had hydraulic front jacks, but the level up system was an option (don't remember if even electric rear jacks was an option). We decided to stay with TTs because of the smaller profile and the type of camping we like.
Niles
Well-known member
It sounds to me like he has just front hydraulic, it also sounds like he has a check valve that is not working. It is letting the jack bleed off over a period of time. I'm not sure just how lipperts system works, we have the bigfoot, if there is no sign of leakage it has to be bleeding back into the reservoir, I would suggest leveling the unit, check your level of fulid, mark it, and then see if it gains fulid when it seeps down. That will tell you if it is seeping back into the reservoir, and maybe someone can pin point what is happening. Good luck!!
rgwilliams69
Well-known member
Might need the factory to weigh in on this observation. I have a Cyclone 4100 and I think my front hydraulic jacks are the same as the OP's. However I have observed operation (at least to this point) that the hydraulic systems does not equally distribute the hydraulic fluid between them, rather that one extends first to initial resistance, then the other extends to initial resistance, then they both extend equally until you are at the height you want. When I finish I might have a 1 inch or more distance variation in extension between the two jacks, but the side to side level (at least on the front) is fine because it raises it up level after initial resistance on both legs. For this reason I never have to block one or the other if the front is not on level ground. Granted this will not level the whole coach, but once I level the wheels at the middle the front just takes care of itself.
Sorry for the long story for a short question, but needed to illustrate: Once the hydraulic motor is disengaged, and I assume the solenoid for the jacks closes, can the fluid still flow between the jacks in front? I assume there is just a single solenoid for the front jacks (to separate them from the slides) and that after that solenoid closes off the loop for both of them? Or are there two separate loops for each jack? Knowing this answer could help the OP isolate where his fluid is going to allow the jack to retract. Fluid dynamics anyone?
Sorry for the long story for a short question, but needed to illustrate: Once the hydraulic motor is disengaged, and I assume the solenoid for the jacks closes, can the fluid still flow between the jacks in front? I assume there is just a single solenoid for the front jacks (to separate them from the slides) and that after that solenoid closes off the loop for both of them? Or are there two separate loops for each jack? Knowing this answer could help the OP isolate where his fluid is going to allow the jack to retract. Fluid dynamics anyone?
jimtoo
Moderator
OK,, here is my take. 3 slides on OD side means he most likely has a Big Horn 3455, 3610 or 3670. Regardless of which or what model, even one with two slides, if the kitchen is on that side and when backing in or pulling in that side should be a little higher than the other side. So use boards or blocks under the tires to get it a little higher, about 1/2 to 1 inch. The OP has front hydraulic jacks only (see post #4 above) and they raise equal amounts of weights, even thou one may go down faster than the other till it contacts the ground. So raise the front and disconnect from tow vehicle, lower front to where it is just a little bit on the high side, not a whole bubble or even half a bubble, just a little off. Extend rear stabilizing jacks and put some weight on them, don't try to pickup the rear, just make the motor change sounds like it is working.. but not stalling out. Then check level and you will be really close front to rear. Then when you extend the slides, the OD side with the 3 slides or 2 slides and kitchen will most likely pull that side down a little and make it level.
Jim M
Jim M
yepuhuh
Well-known member
I had a similar problem in that when I would raise the front jacks, my slides would extend. It was under warranty and the dealership told me there was trash in the hydraulics and they cleaned and replaced the fluid and I have not had this issue since. Was told if there is a flake of anything that gets in the check valve it can impact the hydraulics. After that, and once I get the coach level and the slides extended I turn the manual valves off so no fluid goes anywhere. No problems since I started doing that .Also if the front in on a downhill slope and you are raising it, best to turn off the solenoids to the slides so that the front jacks can lift the weight.
The front landing gear share one valve. When that valve is 'off', no oil can flow in or out of the cylinders. If the valve leaks, I would expect both legs to lower. I'm not sure if the cylinders can swap oil when the valve is closed, i.e. one cylinder goes up while the other one goes down. The head ends are connected together and the rod ends are connected together, that's why they move at different times depending on which is loaded first. The cylinder closest to the pump comes down first because the hose to that cylinder is shorter and gives less resistance to the initial oil flow.
Ok thanks for all the replies, when we get back home tomorrow I will set it up in my driveway and put some 2 X 6's under the od tires and take some measurements. I don't know what my model number is. The kitchen slide is on the door side and master bedroom, living room and back bedroom are on the od side. I think the rear jacks are electric. To add to the frustration we now have a leak and I think it's from the front black tank.
Sterlingsilver
Member
This is an easy fix. Level up your rig and put adjustable auto jack stands under the front frame on each side. You wouldn't leave your car up on only a car hydraulic jack. The technology just isn't good enough yet to leave an object sit on a hydraulic jack of any kind for long periods of time. There is always some seepage and the constant high pressure will eventually cause leaks at the seals. This also stops frame popping. The hydraulic system is great because it's fast and makes setup easy. I've been through all of this.
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