black valve not closing all the way

[BouseBill]

It's been several months now and I've tried all the "fixes" I can find concerning the black tank valve not closing all the way. For the past few flushes it's been hit and miss as to whether any water is going to come out with the "other stuff", sometime it works and holds water and other times it does not

It's time to admit there is nothing left but replacing the valve so I opened up the underside today and here is the situation on the 2015 Big Horn 3570RS
The Valterra 3" valve looks to be sandwiched between the sewer pipe? and if I remove the four corner bolts and nuts the valve comes out and you slip the new one into position? I'm just thinking it couldn't be that easy.

Any and all advise is greatly appreciated on how to go about this correctly other than calling an on site repair guy LOL and which brand would be a better replacement?

 

[richheck]

Basically you are correct in your assumption, best to drain tank as well as possible then park rig with the valve/outlet higher than the other side to allow any left over matter to run to the low side of the tank. Saves having that matter running out when the valve is removed. You mentioned Valterra 3", I would replace with same.

 

[rxbristol]

If you replace the valve, it would be nice if you document your experience with lots of pictures. I also had problems of the black tank valve not closing all the time and starting using liquid laundry soap down the toilet to act as a surfactant which seems to help lube the valve and I've not had anymore problems.

 

[CDN]

Hello,

I replaced the valve on my old trailer, 4 bolts. I dump some vegtable oil down the tank when winterizing to lube the valves and then the RV antifreeze used for winterizing sits on top of the oil. It mixes but the valve gets lubed.

 

[Gary521]

It is that easy! You can also just get the rubber seals for the existing valve which would be even easier.

 

[Roller4tan]

Only concern is making sure the seals don't get pinched during reassembly because it will leak.

 

[BouseBill]

Gary521, I think I may try that, just replacing the seals sounds like a good idea. I did notice Heartland did not install the cable IAW the instructions on the Valterra web site. It was connected to the UDC cabinet, then left to go its own way down to the tank, not connected/secured anywhere in between.

 

[avvidclif]

Meanwhile back at the ranch pick up one of these valves. https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58...qid=1503268570&sr=8-1&keywords=rv+sewer+valve

That way there are no surprises when the cover is removed. I had a valve with some TP stuck in it causing it to leak and used one until I could get it fixed. I still carry it, just in case.

 

[BouseBill]

Oh yeah, been using a twist on valve for years But being full-timers we leave the gray tanks open to preclude any overfills using the shower and washer/dryer so it's kinda hard to tell if the black tank was holding water or not.

 

[avvidclif]

I use it so I don't get a surprise when we get to a camping spot. In other words only when moving.

 

[Gary521]

Not sure if my memory is serving me well but I think there are two different seals you can get. Double Check.

- - - Updated - - -

This explains it all: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toD1epBKjnc

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Basically you are correct in your assumption, best to drain tank as well as possible then park rig with the valve/outlet higher than the other side to allow any left over matter to run to the low side of the tank. Saves having that matter running out when the valve is removed. You mentioned Valterra 3", I would replace with same.

I'll add to what Rich is saying here. You can use the level-up in manual mode and tilt the curb side high to drain the tank, then drop and lift the off curb side to do the repairs.

 

[BouseBill]

Yes on the level-up, I can raise the passenger side of the tank high enough to get it drained then raise the drivers side to move any left-over fluid back away from the valve....after flushing multiple times LOL

Appears to be Bladex valves for a cable installation, will double check with the parts department at our local shop though

 

[MP_CS]

My black valve on my sundance used to do the same thing, what was going on was the top part of the valve that clamps onto the cable, the cable would slip inside the plastic knurls which in turn only allowed the valve to partially open. I tried tightening the screws but that made it very difficult to even move. I ultimately changed out the entire valve and that fixed it. Just remove the four machine screws and the valve will kinda slip out, the rubber gaskets do protrude from the body alittle so its not qiute as easy as sliding out and right back in but just be carefull with those gaskets and its not to bad.