crazybanshee
Well-known member
Do a search. We used pipe insulation on the rungs. Works great.
Agree 100% that the stock ladder is painful for anyone to use, especially in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom!
After extensive on-line searches for a better made replacement ladder, i came to the conclusion that one didn't exist. The one provided by Heartland seems to be the industry standard, unless you want to switch to some type of step stool version with wider steps, but then it is in the way when opened.
For now, we are using an inexpensive pool "noodle float" with the hollow middle. They come in your choice of colors and are much thicker than the pipe insulation, plus they are usually less expensive.
We cut off a slice of the "noodle" just a bit longer than the ladder step is wide in order to have pressure to keep it from moving. We used the large "noodle" as it had a larger diameter hole in the middle so it fits the rectangle steps better on the ladder we have. Then we also secured each end with duct tape to prevent the "noodle' from moving when used. It has worked very well so far, the material gets compressed some but is still much more comfortable than the bare metal.
I have an idea for a permanent installed ladder that will fit when the slide is closed and not cause any issues. It will have a frame to store in so the ladder part can be slid out and locked in place when the steps are needed so you will no longer have to store the ladder on the bunk or the cargo area, it will always be available. A decision I need to make is whether to modify an existing commercially available ladder or build a custom one. If I solve it soon, I will post the pictures and description, still weighing the options.
Best of luck
Keith
After extensive on-line searches for a better made replacement ladder, i came to the conclusion that one didn't exist. The one provided by Heartland seems to be the industry standard, unless you want to switch to some type of step stool version with wider steps, but then it is in the way when opened.
For now, we are using an inexpensive pool "noodle float" with the hollow middle. They come in your choice of colors and are much thicker than the pipe insulation, plus they are usually less expensive.
We cut off a slice of the "noodle" just a bit longer than the ladder step is wide in order to have pressure to keep it from moving. We used the large "noodle" as it had a larger diameter hole in the middle so it fits the rectangle steps better on the ladder we have. Then we also secured each end with duct tape to prevent the "noodle' from moving when used. It has worked very well so far, the material gets compressed some but is still much more comfortable than the bare metal.
I have an idea for a permanent installed ladder that will fit when the slide is closed and not cause any issues. It will have a frame to store in so the ladder part can be slid out and locked in place when the steps are needed so you will no longer have to store the ladder on the bunk or the cargo area, it will always be available. A decision I need to make is whether to modify an existing commercially available ladder or build a custom one. If I solve it soon, I will post the pictures and description, still weighing the options.
Best of luck
Keith
THANKS!
I will be watching for an update. I put the 1" pipe insulation on for our last trip and it was an improvement... but after minimal use it's already starting to split. I was leaning towards a full custom built solution and am ALWAYS willing to learn from the experience of others.
btw - on our 2009 the ladder is integrated into the wall without needing to stow, but it's still got round (painful) rungs.
I will be watching for an update. I put the 1" pipe insulation on for our last trip and it was an improvement... but after minimal use it's already starting to split. I was leaning towards a full custom built solution and am ALWAYS willing to learn from the experience of others.
btw - on our 2009 the ladder is integrated into the wall without needing to stow, but it's still got round (painful) rungs.
tlighthart
Member
It does take a little time, but I bolted thru the rungs to add boards for a much better feel on the feet. I added alum. channel to the sides to add strength. You also need to drill a larger size hole on the underside of the rung for a metal tubing sleave to keep the rung from colapseing when you tighten the carrage bolts. I used nylock nuts so they don't back off by them selves.
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Shadowchek
Well-known member
bigredtruck
Well-known member
haven't heard the kids complain yet about the rungs and I don't go up that often but will keep these suggestions in mind.
That's exactly what I've planned on doing for a year now. Just haven't got around to it yet. Awesome job! Glad someone had the same idea I did and it worked. I was worried about adding more weight to an already heavy ladder....
