We are really new to owing/pulling. a travel trailer. We purchased our 2018 BH270 from my brother. We have been told, by family and friends, that our 2014 F150 4x4 supercrew 3.5L ecoboost V6 will pull it (the truck also has a tow package). When we pulled it home from Las Vegas, our truck seemed to "over heat". Not sure if it was the weather (110+) or our inexperience. Would like your input before we look to trade in our F150 for a bigger truck.
Can our truck pull our BH270?
- Thread starter redy2roll
- Start date
NYSUPstater
Well-known member
Stats of the RV? What is gear ratio of the truck? What is trucks RV capacity? Did the truck do a lot of downshifting/upshifting? Headwind?
CoveredWagon
Well-known member
I wouldn't do it especially in the mountains. It looks like the GVWR is 7750 for the BH270. That seems a lot for that truck, which is already pretty heavy. A 1/2 ton pickup with V8 would be my second choice. Personally I'd prefer any 3/4 ton for pulling any RV.
Just my humble opinion
Just my humble opinion
Last edited:
jerryjay11
Well-known member
Don't forget the braking capability of your truck. Also do use the "Tow Mode" switch if available, though I believe all have it now. Tow mode allows the transmission to shift at more efficient and ideal torque.
david-steph2018
Well-known member
My thoughts, the truck is too small to handle the trailer, especially in mountains. Towing is one part of the towing equation, stopping is the other part. Trailer brakes have to function properly along with the truck braking system to stop the rig.
A 3/4 ton would be good, but I would go ahead and look at a SWD 1-ton pickup (single wheel drive).
Even consider a dually, plan ahead.
If you really like RVing, and later want a bigger rig, you will already have the truck.
Hello redy2roll,
Start here: http://towingplanner.com/ActualWeights/TravelTrailerCatScales and http://learntorv.com/how-to-weigh-a-travel-trailer/. Note the placard on the driver's door frame, you will need the front gross axle weight rating (GAWR), rear gross axle weight rating (GAWR), the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), current wheel and tire size, hopefully they are the same size as the original on your truck. You also need the weight rating information from your hitch receiver, there usually is a placard on the hitch and it should list both without and with a weight distribution hitch. You should find your rear axle gear ratio. You may need to visit a Ford dealer with your vin or go to: https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...where-can-i-get-a-window-sticker-replacement/ for information on how to get your window sticker if you do not have it. Load your truck and trailer like you normally travel and head to the scales. I find the Weight My Truck from CAT and a Credit Card added to the app makes it easy to weigh with using your phone. You setup the app with the requested information, just make up the information as you like, it doesn't need to be official. Lastly you need the Ford Tow guide for your Truck year. With all these pieces of information you can discern if your setup is within Ford's specifications. Please note that your setup may meet Ford's specifications, but you may not feel comfortable with how the setup performs in various driving conditions such as winds, grades, and speeds. I hope you find this helpful.
Start here: http://towingplanner.com/ActualWeights/TravelTrailerCatScales and http://learntorv.com/how-to-weigh-a-travel-trailer/. Note the placard on the driver's door frame, you will need the front gross axle weight rating (GAWR), rear gross axle weight rating (GAWR), the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), current wheel and tire size, hopefully they are the same size as the original on your truck. You also need the weight rating information from your hitch receiver, there usually is a placard on the hitch and it should list both without and with a weight distribution hitch. You should find your rear axle gear ratio. You may need to visit a Ford dealer with your vin or go to: https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...where-can-i-get-a-window-sticker-replacement/ for information on how to get your window sticker if you do not have it. Load your truck and trailer like you normally travel and head to the scales. I find the Weight My Truck from CAT and a Credit Card added to the app makes it easy to weigh with using your phone. You setup the app with the requested information, just make up the information as you like, it doesn't need to be official. Lastly you need the Ford Tow guide for your Truck year. With all these pieces of information you can discern if your setup is within Ford's specifications. Please note that your setup may meet Ford's specifications, but you may not feel comfortable with how the setup performs in various driving conditions such as winds, grades, and speeds. I hope you find this helpful.
Stormy61
Member
I'm assuming from these answers that most folks are unaware that Ford's towing capacty rating for any F150 from 2014 on, that has the EcoBoost engine, is 12,000-14,400 lbs. I know, it sounds unbelievable, but it's true and I've seen one of these in action hauling a huge semi trailer flatbed loaded with 11,000 lbs. of concrete pipe, and it pulled like a champ. Just saying, if you're not familiar with this truck, please refrain from giving advice based on less capable models. I do agree, however, that it's as much about what you can slow down and stop as it is about what you can haul, especially in steep mountainous terrain.
taskswap
Well-known member
I have owned an F150 with the V6 EcoBoost + tow package. I had the exact same problem. It towed and braked fine and had no problems getting "started" (being sluggish from a stop is usually a good sign you're way over capacity). But it would overheat after a period of time, sometimes even on relatively flat roads.
I personally believe Ford under-sized the radiator and transmission cooler on these trucks. Other than my one anecdotal data point, I don't have any data to support this, but this wasn't my first (or last truck) by a long shot. I've even had other non-Ecoboost (V8) Fords towing similar loads without trouble. I suspect when Ford put a turbo on a V6 and up-rated the tow capacity they just got a little close to the edge on the cooling requirements. There were times I had to watch even semi's pass me on hills as I towed at 35mph to stay under the overheat/redline.
There are a few things you can do to help. Not by a lot, but everything counts. Tow empty whenever you can, especially your tanks - water is 8.34lbs/gal so a 50 gal fresh tank can add >400lbs of weight, a significant increase. Be careful about overloading your fridge and cupboards, too - you'd be surprised how fast canned and frozen goods add up to real weight. Towing in early mornings and evenings, especially on hot days, can help too. You might also want to check for any recalls. Not the answer you want but better than nothing...
I personally believe Ford under-sized the radiator and transmission cooler on these trucks. Other than my one anecdotal data point, I don't have any data to support this, but this wasn't my first (or last truck) by a long shot. I've even had other non-Ecoboost (V8) Fords towing similar loads without trouble. I suspect when Ford put a turbo on a V6 and up-rated the tow capacity they just got a little close to the edge on the cooling requirements. There were times I had to watch even semi's pass me on hills as I towed at 35mph to stay under the overheat/redline.
There are a few things you can do to help. Not by a lot, but everything counts. Tow empty whenever you can, especially your tanks - water is 8.34lbs/gal so a 50 gal fresh tank can add >400lbs of weight, a significant increase. Be careful about overloading your fridge and cupboards, too - you'd be surprised how fast canned and frozen goods add up to real weight. Towing in early mornings and evenings, especially on hot days, can help too. You might also want to check for any recalls. Not the answer you want but better than nothing...
I have a 2019 M27 that I pull with my 2014 crewcab EB 4x4 and it pulls great. Have not done a tons of mountain driving with it, but interstate travel and tractor trailer passes seem to be fine. Even with with 172,000 miles on it, I have never had a moments worry about power. Granted, I am on the look for new truck because even though I have only had maintenance wrenches on it, with that mileage, something is sooner rather than later. With only pulling maybe 10 times a year and within 4-5 hours from home, I have yet to convince myself to get a SD for my daily driver. My truck is a 6 speed so I am only getting 14mpg empty and 12mpg with the trailer. I am sure the 10 speed tranny will improve the empty economy.
taskswap
Well-known member
I'm not saying anybody should run out and replace their truck, and definitely not shilling for RAM (it has its pros and cons, just like any vehicle). But for anybody who MIGHT see this in the archives and might be considering a new tow vehicle, a diesel has a lot going for it for hauling. And the biggest benefit is a little unexpected if you've never driven one. It's not MPG or torque. It's braking.
I live in Colorado and regularly tow in the mountains. There are Instagram feeds full of photos and clips of folks who have had brake fires start, and often it leads to a total loss for the camper. We have long (sometimes 5-8 mile) descents from many of our mountain passes and most brakes just can't take it. It's such a big problem that the road to Pike's Peak has a manned station halfway down the exit side where rangers will use infrared thermometers to check brake temps during the summer, and pull people off to cool down if they're overheating.
(Most) Diesels have engine braking. In my RAM I can just put cruise control on, turn on engine braking, and coast down at a steady 65. No brakes at all except on a few curves here and there where I want to take the edge off. It just lowers you down the hill. This is towing our Milestone 386BH, which is like 14k dry.
Just something to think about if you're in the market.
I live in Colorado and regularly tow in the mountains. There are Instagram feeds full of photos and clips of folks who have had brake fires start, and often it leads to a total loss for the camper. We have long (sometimes 5-8 mile) descents from many of our mountain passes and most brakes just can't take it. It's such a big problem that the road to Pike's Peak has a manned station halfway down the exit side where rangers will use infrared thermometers to check brake temps during the summer, and pull people off to cool down if they're overheating.
(Most) Diesels have engine braking. In my RAM I can just put cruise control on, turn on engine braking, and coast down at a steady 65. No brakes at all except on a few curves here and there where I want to take the edge off. It just lowers you down the hill. This is towing our Milestone 386BH, which is like 14k dry.
Just something to think about if you're in the market.