canadian winters

[hummer_maxxer]

hi everyone, i just purchased a 2015 cyclone 4000 with the yeti package and im looking to fulltime it on a property i have in northern ontario. in the middle of winter temperature would be around -20f , with some nights of -40 F. So this is my plan so far, gonna park the rv under a roof to help with the snow, got a full double insulated skirting from airdrie canvas. im gonna have the water line running 8 feet deep til its under the rv. will also have a septic field with the drains running under the rv. Going to also get a 250 to 400 propane tank mounted next to it. (alot of house run there heat off propane near by)

so here are my questions

- for the gray and black tanks can i have the valves always open and dumping directly into my septic, or will that cause a problem with the cold weather

-if i do have to hold it and then drain it, do i need the tank heaters on ? prefer not to since i wanna run off city water and not the tank.

- i have a switch for heated pipes, when its on is it always on, your does it come on only when need it ? should i leave it on ?

- the undercarriage is heated from the propane heated form what ive read, is that enough ? is the storage compartment also heated ?

- at the UDC i have a water line to go from under the rv to the city hookup that is auto with a heat trace, is that enough heat, do i need extra heat in there ? if so would i light bulb be enough?

-is the skirting enough to keep the heat under it? does it need an extra heater under it? if soo, how much and what type, electric or propane

- ive read of some people adding extra vents for heating in the undercarriage, is it needed or just a good idea, could i run a vent under to the skirting and to the UDC?

- what do you do for your washroom air vent? would be nice to still be able to use in the winter. the other one i was going to make insulated covers for them, should i also cover the ac units ?

anything else i may have missed ?

 

[danemayer]

hi everyone, i just purchased a 2015 cyclone 4000 with the yeti package and im looking to fulltime it on a property i have in northern ontario. in the middle of winter temperature would be around -20f , with some nights of -40 F. So this is my plan so far, gonna park the rv under a roof to help with the snow, got a full double insulated skirting from airdrie canvas. im gonna have the water line running 8 feet deep til its under the rv. will also have a septic field with the drains running under the rv. Going to also get a 250 to 400 propane tank mounted next to it. (alot of house run there heat off propane near by)

so here are my questions

- for the gray and black tanks can i have the valves always open and dumping directly into my septic, or will that cause a problem with the cold weather
In extremely cold weather, having the gray valves open all the time can cause an ice dam to build up in the ground and back up into your sewer outlet. And you can never leave the black tank valve open continuously or you will have a buildup of solids in the tank causing multiple problems.

-if i do have to hold it and then drain it, do i need the tank heaters on ? prefer not to since i wanna run off city water and not the tank.
You will need the tank heaters on, with at least a little water in each tank to keep from burning through the tank material. Keep some water in the fresh tank even though running off city water.

- i have a switch for heated pipes, when its on is it always on, your does it come on only when need it ? should i leave it on ?
If you mean the factory installed Yeti heat tape, it covers the fresh water feed line to the pump, but only the section in the underbelly. The rest of the water lines are not heated unless you added heat tape. You may want to do that.
- the undercarriage is heated from the propane heated form what ive read, is that enough ? is the storage compartment also heated ?
The passthrough basement storage is not heated, but usually gets a little heat because the furnace is not far away. If you hang a light in the storage area it'll keep it warm.
- at the UDC i have a water line to go from under the rv to the city hookup that is auto with a heat trace, is that enough heat, do i need extra heat in there ? if so would i light bulb be enough?
Yes you need extra heat to protect the 4-way Anderson Valve and the water inlet. A 60 watt drop lamp in the UDC will do it. If temps get down to -20 or -40 (F), you'll also want a small piece of foamboard insulation covering the UDC main opening, and you'll want to close off the round access panel at the bottom. A kneeling pad cut to fit with a slot for the hose will do nicely.
-is the skirting enough to keep the heat under it? does it need an extra heater under it? if soo, how much and what type, electric or propane
You'll need a heater. Keep it on a piece of wood or other raised surface so any running water doesn't get to it. If you skirt the entire rig, you may need more than 1 heater. A heater under the main plumbing area will keep your gate valves from freezing at -20 (F).
- ive read of some people adding extra vents for heating in the undercarriage, is it needed or just a good idea, could i run a vent under to the skirting and to the UDC?
Heat inside the skirted area will keep the undercarriage warm.
- what do you do for your washroom air vent? would be nice to still be able to use in the winter. the other one i was going to make insulated covers for them, should i also cover the ac units ?
Open it for short periods while showering or to exhaust area, then close it.
anything else i may have missed ?

Answers in BLUE, in line above. Also, take a look at our owner-written Water Systems Winter Usage Guide.

 

[sengli]

seriously even with all these precautions, these coaches arent sealed all that well. Your going to be cold and the heater is going to run all the time.

 

[hummer_maxxer]

the guy i bought it from lived in it for a winter in northern Saskatchewan hitting 40 below temperature. said he kept warm all winter

 

['Lil Guy']

the guy i bought it from lived in it for a winter in northern Saskatchewan hitting 40 below temperature. said he kept warm all winter

Really. That's probably why he sold it.lol Just kidding. I can't even imagine being in a brick home at -40. You've got to be a man's man to be in an RV at that temp. Please keep us posted as to how it goes. I just can't imagine how you could keep the cold out at those temps in any kind of structure.

 

[danemayer]

We've been down to -30 (F) quite a few times. It's not that hard to stay warm. Keeping the water running is harder.

But you don't want to run out of propane at 3:30 AM when it's -30. Don't ask me how I know.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[caissiel]

I spend a winter in our previous SOB unit, and spend the month of Dec in our BC. I used akirting on the previous but none on the BC.
There were enough warm days above 32f to alow filling and dumpping. We were never cold with the furnace on propane.
We live in northern New Brunswick.
I believe the Cyclone is not as well insulated as the Big Côuntry.
We travel south every year as its cheaper then heat coat LOL.

Sent from my B1-710 using Tapatalk

 

[Gaffer]

Wrap your slides on the top, bottom and sides with ridged styrofoam.

 

[hummer_maxxer]

the skirting kit i got, came with double insulated wraps that go around the pull outs

 

[cookie]

the skirting kit i got, came with double insulated wraps that go around the pull outs

What is the "R" rating of that insulated wrap?
1 inch of rigid foam is R- 5.

Peace
Dave