CarterKraft
Well-known member
First couple of pics.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
CarterKraft TQ290 mod thread
- Thread starter CarterKraft
- Start date
CarterKraft
Well-known member
We're getting loaded up for a week in Arkansas and the Level-enuf worked very smoothly to get stabilized and level in the front of the driveway.
It's s 3 point leveling system with 4 points of stabilization for a total of 7 points of ground contact. BAL ended up releasing a similar system about the time I was brainstorming this so I got some good vibes it would work well.
I ran a 6ga welding lead to the fuel station area. It was powered from the generator 6 ga starter feed cable on a 50 amp bussman circuit breaker. I ran the trailer/Ford backup camera cable and a spare 16ga wire to later be used to switch a relay for backup lights along with the welding lead. This job ended up being one of the most difficult and strenous going up and over the axles but inside the underbelly, it was very dirty and will get degreased the next wash cycle. I think the majority of filth is from the 2 transmission failures from the previous tow vehicle.
With the + cable ran I mounted the 2 500amp winch contactors. 500 amp contactor is extremely overkill for a 30 amp motor circuit however the price $16ea and the form factor and overkill factor seem like the perfect use of the part.
I connected the power cable and a short negative cable from a cleaned spot on the frame. I then connected the RH and LH jacks to the contactors. I used MC4 connectors for the jack to extension harness connections. These are easy to use, easy to switch the leads to reverse direction in the event of a contactor failure and are waterproof. The cables ended with 5/16 ring terminals to attach to the contactor.
With the high current cabling complete I started on the control station. I bought a valtera fresh water port plate. I cut out the port and vent pipe and installed a fabricated plate with 2 spdt switches, one for each jack. I also added a arming on/off switch for the controls. This panel is locking and I am not sure if I like that yet, I might change it to a cam lock thumb knob.
The jacks themselves are 7k lb x 15" stroke electric jacks. They are from a class A Levellegs system that was removed because one of the 10k lb jacks and controller failed.
These jacks are super long and that posted a problem. I shortened the inner and outer tubes 4" but kept the stroke the same. Under normal circumstances I won't use anyware near the 15" of travel. I was able to buy some of the OEM brackets to mount on the frame but I had to cutoff and re attach a new set of "keys" that orient the jacks and support the load in the brackets.
Drilling the frame wasn't the best but it actually was much easier than I imagined. 4 1/2" bolts per side with 2 holes below the frame rail requiring the brackets to be notched around the lower flange of the I beam. I made some 2x8x 1/4 straps to connect the lower mounts and welded a piece of 1.5x angle iron accross the frame to tie both sides together.
To level the rig you park as normal then raise the tongue .5 to 1 bubble high in the front with the tongue jack. Then lower the rear jacks and after establishing a level attitude right to left raise the rear until the trailer is level. It was a piece of cake last night and required very little labor to deploy. No more chock devices, backing up on wood blocks etc. Very simple system compared to levelup etc. but still gets the job done.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
It's s 3 point leveling system with 4 points of stabilization for a total of 7 points of ground contact. BAL ended up releasing a similar system about the time I was brainstorming this so I got some good vibes it would work well.
I ran a 6ga welding lead to the fuel station area. It was powered from the generator 6 ga starter feed cable on a 50 amp bussman circuit breaker. I ran the trailer/Ford backup camera cable and a spare 16ga wire to later be used to switch a relay for backup lights along with the welding lead. This job ended up being one of the most difficult and strenous going up and over the axles but inside the underbelly, it was very dirty and will get degreased the next wash cycle. I think the majority of filth is from the 2 transmission failures from the previous tow vehicle.
With the + cable ran I mounted the 2 500amp winch contactors. 500 amp contactor is extremely overkill for a 30 amp motor circuit however the price $16ea and the form factor and overkill factor seem like the perfect use of the part.
I connected the power cable and a short negative cable from a cleaned spot on the frame. I then connected the RH and LH jacks to the contactors. I used MC4 connectors for the jack to extension harness connections. These are easy to use, easy to switch the leads to reverse direction in the event of a contactor failure and are waterproof. The cables ended with 5/16 ring terminals to attach to the contactor.
With the high current cabling complete I started on the control station. I bought a valtera fresh water port plate. I cut out the port and vent pipe and installed a fabricated plate with 2 spdt switches, one for each jack. I also added a arming on/off switch for the controls. This panel is locking and I am not sure if I like that yet, I might change it to a cam lock thumb knob.
The jacks themselves are 7k lb x 15" stroke electric jacks. They are from a class A Levellegs system that was removed because one of the 10k lb jacks and controller failed.
These jacks are super long and that posted a problem. I shortened the inner and outer tubes 4" but kept the stroke the same. Under normal circumstances I won't use anyware near the 15" of travel. I was able to buy some of the OEM brackets to mount on the frame but I had to cutoff and re attach a new set of "keys" that orient the jacks and support the load in the brackets.
Drilling the frame wasn't the best but it actually was much easier than I imagined. 4 1/2" bolts per side with 2 holes below the frame rail requiring the brackets to be notched around the lower flange of the I beam. I made some 2x8x 1/4 straps to connect the lower mounts and welded a piece of 1.5x angle iron accross the frame to tie both sides together.
To level the rig you park as normal then raise the tongue .5 to 1 bubble high in the front with the tongue jack. Then lower the rear jacks and after establishing a level attitude right to left raise the rear until the trailer is level. It was a piece of cake last night and required very little labor to deploy. No more chock devices, backing up on wood blocks etc. Very simple system compared to levelup etc. but still gets the job done.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
That's awesome. Love it
Nice job !!!
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Nice job !!!
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
CarterKraft
Well-known member
We made it to lake Ouachita State park no problem.
The level-e-nuff system worked excellently on a slightly off level site right to left but decently sloped front to rear. This type of sight usually causes me problems because the front or rear stabilizer jacks can't reach the ground. With the rear electric Jack's being so close the rear tires that isn't a problem. And the unhook and level setup time was the fastest and easiest to date.
The wife even says "are you done?", "Really?".
The level-e-nuff system worked excellently on a slightly off level site right to left but decently sloped front to rear. This type of sight usually causes me problems because the front or rear stabilizer jacks can't reach the ground. With the rear electric Jack's being so close the rear tires that isn't a problem. And the unhook and level setup time was the fastest and easiest to date.
The wife even says "are you done?", "Really?".
Last edited:
How does this affect if any when the second garage AC is connected through ducts to the main ac?
CarterKraft
Well-known member
Not sure. I don't have a garage AC unit so my duct into the garage is my only duct into the garage. Not sure yet what is inside the rear vent housing as after doing the timk mod I just have not needed increased capacity of a second AC unit. I would like one for redundancy and backup but it hasn't made it to the mod list yet.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
CarterKraft
Well-known member
Boondocking prep
4x 100w of HQST solar panels
Victron Smart Solar 100/30 MPPT solar charge controller
1500w GO WISE pure sine wave inverter connected to shore power 30 amp inlet on a 15 amp outlet of the inverter. This allows the ATS to continue to source power from generator to inverter. (no cables for the wife/kids to connect/disconnect)
2x GC2 6V Duracell batteries
8 ga cable from charge controller to roof
10 ga cables from panel MC4 to MC4 branch connectors
6 ga cable from charge controller to buss bar
2/0 cables from battery to buss bar fused with a 300amp Blue Sea/Eaton CBBF terminal fuse
Bayite 100A battery monitor (to be replaced with 300+ amp monitor yet to be named)
Solar performance was outstanding in Silverton Colorado last week. We had not a care in the world in regards to power. Used the generator for coffee a couple mornings and vacuum cleaner as needed with all other AC loads on the inverter.
This will allow allot of camping spot options were scared to use before.
Solar panels installed to allow up to 90 tilt to either side of the trailer but not front to rear.
GC2 batteries installed on the tongue. I hope to build a lithium pack in the next couple of years of either prismatic format (aka CALB, Winston etc.) or 18650 style. Lithium is cost prohibitive at the moment.
4x 100w of HQST solar panels
Victron Smart Solar 100/30 MPPT solar charge controller
1500w GO WISE pure sine wave inverter connected to shore power 30 amp inlet on a 15 amp outlet of the inverter. This allows the ATS to continue to source power from generator to inverter. (no cables for the wife/kids to connect/disconnect)
2x GC2 6V Duracell batteries
8 ga cable from charge controller to roof
10 ga cables from panel MC4 to MC4 branch connectors
6 ga cable from charge controller to buss bar
2/0 cables from battery to buss bar fused with a 300amp Blue Sea/Eaton CBBF terminal fuse
Bayite 100A battery monitor (to be replaced with 300+ amp monitor yet to be named)
Solar performance was outstanding in Silverton Colorado last week. We had not a care in the world in regards to power. Used the generator for coffee a couple mornings and vacuum cleaner as needed with all other AC loads on the inverter.
This will allow allot of camping spot options were scared to use before.
Solar panels installed to allow up to 90 tilt to either side of the trailer but not front to rear.
GC2 batteries installed on the tongue. I hope to build a lithium pack in the next couple of years of either prismatic format (aka CALB, Winston etc.) or 18650 style. Lithium is cost prohibitive at the moment.
Attachments
travelin2
Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Looks similar to mine. 2/180 watt panels that I can tilt, same controller, 3 grp 31 AGM batteries (already had 2 less than a year old so I wasn’t going to replace with 6v pieces and can’t afford lithium). Only a 1000 watt inverter I had purchased prior that powers the TV if we want. Everything thing else we use is 12v/propane. Suits our needs. The converter has been turned off since installing solar a year ago. Use the 2000w Honda if the DW wants to use her hair dryer 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CarterKraft
Well-known member
Looks similar to mine. 2/180 watt panels that I can tilt, same controller, 3 grp 31 AGM batteries (already had 2 less than a year old so I wasn’t going to replace with 6v pieces and can’t afford lithium). Only a 1000 watt inverter I had purchased prior that powers the TV if we want. Everything thing else we use is 12v/propane. Suits our needs. The converter has been turned off since installing solar a year ago. Use the 2000w Honda if the DW wants to use her hair dryer
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes exactly! I am going to run the converter on shore power for storage to try and keep the batteries in Float in my storage building but other than that will be off and might give us back some 30amp headroom for those less than ideal rv parks with shady power.
travelin2
Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Last September when we were out we had several days in mid 90s. With converter off, WH and fridge on 12v/propane, I was running both ACs on 30 amp
Our rig has been sitting still and empty for nearly 2 months so its been in float status most every day. Over this past week I was running 12v fan to help exhaust some heat but otherwise...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CarterKraft
Well-known member
I finally got around to adding the 120v power monitor. I put it between the transfer switch and the panel so I will always have current reading either from the generator or shore power. It's easy enough to install as it clips around the wire, no wire removal needed. I sleeved the inside of it with a small section of hose and secured it to the wire with zip ties to ensure it stays clipped on and doesn't chaff the wire. I fused the meter with a 3 amp atc fuse on 16 ga wire fed from the same lugs.
It is very easy to exceed 30 amps during normal trailer use...
This should really help with boondockiing and inverter use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JB9B2QL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is very easy to exceed 30 amps during normal trailer use...
This should really help with boondockiing and inverter use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JB9B2QL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Attachments
CarterKraft
Well-known member
I also swapped the 100amp battery monitor shunt for the 300amp Juntek VAT 1300.
It worked very well wirelessly but I think the current is reading backwards in/out so I guess I flubbed the orientation...
I will get install pix of that and screen operation when I re-do the wiring.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/JUNTEK-D...-Voltmeter-Capacity-Coulomb-Counter/224981491
It worked very well wirelessly but I think the current is reading backwards in/out so I guess I flubbed the orientation...
I will get install pix of that and screen operation when I re-do the wiring.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/JUNTEK-D...-Voltmeter-Capacity-Coulomb-Counter/224981491