Chose the Trailer - Need to Choose the Truck
- Thread starter LanceR
- Start date
I will absolutely tell you and post pics! Right now, I'm scheduling test drives of the Ford F-350 SRW and DRW, the Ram 3500 Laramie DRW with the Cummins/Aisin combo, and the GM 3500 HD DRW (Chevy and GMC). I test drove a Chevy 3500 HD LTZ DRW, but it had the bench seat in the front (I want bucket seats with the console). Once I determine which one I like the best, I'll make a decision as to special order or drive one off the lot. Color might play a factor with ordering because white and black don't really do it for me and that seems to be all I see when I check dealer inventories.
brianlajoie
Well-known member
I agree with much of what is said. I would add that you check out autotrader.com to compare market prices to what you are test driving. If you would consider a brand new 2014 model, I know that when I bought my truck, Ford was running March truck month with additional incentives for prior year models. I would think the other makers would have similar programs.
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
I dont know if anyone said this already but car dealerships rarely have more than one person who knows enough about the truck ratings to help with mating a truck and a rig. But you can rest assured that a RV salesperson will let you drive off the lot with a 3650RL hooked to a 69 Toyota Tacoma.
farside291
Well-known member
Plus, trucks with hips are cool!!
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Carguru.com is a helpful resource for knowing how long a vehicle has been on the market and what it's selling for in your area.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bohemian
Well-known member
Get enough truck to do the job well. If money is any consideration at all get enough truck to deal with your future uses. If money is no object, you can focus on only today's use, and spend more in the future.
Form should follow function.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...Truck-Payloads?p=386013&viewfull=1#post386013
Form should follow function.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...Truck-Payloads?p=386013&viewfull=1#post386013
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
The easy way to tell how long a truck/car has been on the lot is. Open the drivers door...look on the door and find the build date. My GMC was built 12-12-12. I bought in March 2013, so i was fairly fresh...but the 2014 were out...so I got a better deal...a little over $5k off sticker. If the dealer for some reason has a truck that is 5-6 months old "build date", they will be willing to give you bigger discount. This is where "flooring" costs come into play. There will be more factory incentives on a 2014 than a 2015.
Also check for the incentives. Several trucks I've been looking at have nearly $10k in incentives bringing the price down nicely (especially since I don't have a trade).
Another two pieces of advice I got recently.
Buy the RV first. Lenders see it as a toy (not needed) so if it's already yours you don't have to be worried about being turned down.
Second, watch for the 0-1.9% interest promos. You will lose the incentive money but will save more than that on the loan. Depending on credit, etc.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Another two pieces of advice I got recently.
Buy the RV first. Lenders see it as a toy (not needed) so if it's already yours you don't have to be worried about being turned down.
Second, watch for the 0-1.9% interest promos. You will lose the incentive money but will save more than that on the loan. Depending on credit, etc.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bones
Well-known member
Bones
Well-known member
I would like to add that how you plan on using the vehicle when not towing is very important as well. This is what lead me to my 2500. I did not see any difference in frame design between the 2500 and 3500 and with dodge when you get to the 3500 most of what I saw was a dulley. I drive the truck every day to and from work as well as around town so that was important. I didn't want something so large it made driving around town difficult and if it would fit in a parking space. The coil springs are nice. The engine definitely was a diesel and was always a diesel. What moved me to the Cummins had to do with longevity and repairability. The engine design is a straight 6 so there is room in the engine bay to work on it. I also believe that the straight six should be able to take a beating with the design. I do plan on adding helper air springs in the rear. OK there are my two cents worth. Enjoy picking out your TV.
Bohemian
Well-known member
Bones
Well-known member
I checked out some of these calculations and none seem to be based in reality. Especially for 5th wheels. They are taking theoretical numbers basing the tongue weight at 20% Not all trailers even run at a tongue weight that heavy. Like mine the advertised tongue weight s 2020 lbs and that is with the advertised weight of 15500 lbs. Take that number and divide you get roughly 13%. Now the unladen weight of the unit is 13k. use the same formula of 13% the tongue weight is 1690. Maybe I am missing something here
danemayer
Well-known member
You're making an incorrect assumption about the published numbers.
The GVWR of 15,500 is basically a fully loaded number. Most of us are pretty close to the GVWR when loaded for travel.
The published pin weight of 2020 lbs is based on an empty trailer with no options installed. It would be a rare trailer that had an actual pin weight anywhere close to the published number.
Our trailer has a GVWR of 16,000 and a published pin weight of 2,620. HOWEVER, the actual loaded pin weight is 3,700.
20% is a reasonable planning number for 5th wheel pin weight, but the only way to know actual weights is to get the trailer weighed, loaded the way it is when you travel.
Bones
Well-known member
I agree on hitting the scale
DW_Gray
Well-known member
What did you do, if you did, to make any changes to decrease the pin weight?
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