Complete Loss of Power

[dkeetc1]

Hooked up Truck Slides all in Disconnected Power Cord No Power at cord
reel No Power Inside No Power to Ref. Turned on Gen. Ran fo 200 Miles to
next destination Everything appeared to be okay I have new batteries
Checked all connections Readout in coach appeard ok The only
thing that stood out L1 118 volts 1 Amp L2 116 volts 15Amp No clue?????

 

[danemayer]

Hi Derald,

If I'm following, after you disconnected shore power, your interior lights didn't operate and your refrigerator didn't operate. So to keep food cold, you fired up the generator. You think your batteries are ok.

If it was just the refrigerator, I'd suspect the inverter was off. But since it's also the lights, that suggests no power getting through from the batteries.

Any chance the two battery cutoff switches in the front compartment were turned off?

 

[dkeetc1]

Hi Derald,

If I'm following, after you disconnected shore power, your interior lights didn't operate and your refrigerator didn't operate. So to keep food cold, you fired up the generator. You think your batteries are ok.

If it was just the refrigerator, I'd suspect the inverter was off. But since it's also the lights, that suggests no power getting through from the batteries.

Any chance the two battery cutoff switches in the front compartment were turned off?

No I checked I did notice the Lights flickered when she put the slides in (was before I disconnected shore power)

 

[danemayer]

Ok, I'm thinking the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker on the buss bar near the batteries has tripped and no charge is getting to the batteries when on shore power. And no battery power is getting to the interior lights. And you probably don't have enough battery power left to run the inverter that powers the refrigerator while not on shore power.

If you check battery power at the Auto-Leveling Control Panel (cycle it forward once), you should read at least 12.5V DC if not connected to shore power or the truck. When plugged into shore power it should read 13.2 - 13.6V DC. If it doesn't, pressing the reset button should fix it.

If pressing the reset button doesn't work, you may have a problem with the Power Converter.

Here are a couple of pictures. The buss bar is in the front compartment, not far from the batteries. The breakers are covered with a red rubber boot. One breaker has a teeny, teeny, itsy-bitsy, very tiny reset button. Easier to feel than see.

 

[dkeetc1]

Ok, I'm thinking the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker on the buss bar near the batteries has tripped and no charge is getting to the batteries when on shore power. And no battery power is getting to the interior lights. And you probably don't have enough battery power left to run the inverter that powers the refrigerator while not on shore power.If you check battery power at the Auto-Leveling Control Panel (cycle it forward once), you should read at least 12.5V DC if not connected to shore power or the truck. When plugged into shore power it should read 13.2 - 13.6V DC. If it doesn't, pressing the reset button should fix it.If pressing the reset button doesn't work, you may have a problem with the Power Converter.Here are a couple of pictures. The buss bar is in the front compartment, not far from the batteries. The breakers are covered with a red rubber boot. One breaker has a teeny, teeny, itsy-bitsy, very tiny reset button. Easier to feel than see.

Thanks

 

[hoefler]

Reverse polarity on batteries??

 

['Lil Guy']

Ok, I'm thinking the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker on the buss bar near the batteries has tripped and no charge is getting to the batteries when on shore power. And no battery power is getting to the interior lights. And you probably don't have enough battery power left to run the inverter that powers the refrigerator while not on shore power.

If you check battery power at the Auto-Leveling Control Panel (cycle it forward once), you should read at least 12.5V DC if not connected to shore power or the truck. When plugged into shore power it should read 13.2 - 13.6V DC. If it doesn't, pressing the reset button should fix it.

If pressing the reset button doesn't work, you may have a problem with the Power Converter.

Here are a couple of pictures. The buss bar is in the front compartment, not far from the batteries. The breakers are covered with a red rubber boot. One breaker has a teeny, teeny, itsy-bitsy, very tiny reset button. Easier to feel than see.

Had this issue a while back and replaced batts. tried resetting the little breaker and thought things were good to go. After plugging into shore power, lost lights and power. Thanks to the HOC and knowledgeable people (Dave Tyler) they traced it to the Convertor. Mine came with the progressive ind. 9080V. went to Longview to pick it up and installed that evening. Problem solved. I paid $450.00+ at an RV dealer. If you can get to it to read the number on it, Progressive will send you a refurbished replacement for $110.00 and you can send them yours. Paying for next day freight would have been a whole lot cheaper than what I paid.
Again, Like Dan says, probably your Power Convertor. Good luck.
BTW, they come with a small LED sensor that shows its condition. Just plug it in and route it into your bay. Would have saved a lot of troubleshooting. They left mine off on the stock convertor.