Dodge Ram 2500 overheating

[Mullins]

I have a 2013 Dodge Ram Diesel 6.7 (24000 Mi) that I pull a 2015 Heartland 3110 toy hauler (16K) with. The problem is that the truck is now starting to overheat, big time!.. I have pulled my RV countless times over Donner summit approx. 7900 ft (California) with no problem, the Ram is really a work horse, but this past weekend when pulling it over the hill the truck was really overheating to the point I had to pull over and let it cool down; needles to say I nursed it back home and canceled the camping trip. I know there could be a number of things that can contribute to overheating, but has anyone ever encountered this in their dodge Ram, if so, what was problem/fix? The coolant level is where it should be,
the fan is turning and the serpentine belt is in good shape. It seems to be ok while not pulling the RV, but as soon I hook'er up; there goes the temp guage into never never land..the temp goes up to the point where it tells me that the "coolant is too hot"(around the 245 mark; way too hot..)

 

[Mburtsvt]

Sounds like the PCM, (Powertrain Control Module), is not doing its job. You say the fan comes on - do you see a drop in temperature? The PCM may not be keeping the fan turning fast or long enough.

 

[jimtoo]

Have you actually removed the radiator cap and checked fluid level when the unit is cold?

Jim M

 

[kkamshop]

If fluid levels are fine then water pump and fan clutch would be next

 

[roaddog28]

I have a 2013 Dodge Ram Diesel 6.7 (24000 Mi) that I pull a 2015 Heartland 3110 toy hauler (16K) with. The problem is that the truck is now starting to overheat, big time!.. I have pulled my RV countless times over Donner summit approx. 7900 ft (California) with no problem, the Ram is really a work horse, but this past weekend when pulling it over the hill the truck was really overheating to the point I had to pull over and let it cool down; needles to say I nursed it back home and canceled the camping trip. I know there could be a number of things that can contribute to overheating, but has anyone ever encountered this in their dodge Ram, if so, what was problem/fix? The coolant level is where it should be,
the fan is turning and the serpentine belt is in good shape. It seems to be ok while not pulling the RV, but as soon I hook'er up; there goes the temp guage into never never land..the temp goes up to the point where it tells me that the "coolant is too hot"(around the 245 mark; way too hot..)

Look at the thermostat. A partly closed thermostat could be the reason.
Good luck
Howard

 

[Hippy]

My 2010 2500 Ram 6.7 diesel pulling my 3110 Cyclone reached 235 a few times from S. CAL to Montana and back. I was really stressing. I only have 55,000 miles. I had checked the coolant level prior to leaving and returning home.
I figure I would change the thermostate and coolant even though I feel for the miles I shouldn't have to.
Hopefully that will take care of it. If you find out something different, please share.

 

[Mullins]

I have sealed radiator, no cap, I can only go by what I see in the overflow when it's cold.

Have you actually removed the radiator cap and checked fluid level when the unit is cold?

Jim M

- - - Updated - - -

The PCM could be the culprit, According to the truck's owners manual it says to put the transmission in neutral while the engine is running, the fan is turning, but does not cool down. The only time it cools down is when I turn off the motor and let it sit for a while.

Sounds like the PCM, (Powertrain Control Module), is not doing its job. You say the fan comes on - do you see a drop in temperature? The PCM may not be keeping the fan turning fast or long enough.

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you all for your input.. My way of thinking is that if it were the water pump or thermostat, I would see an increase in temp. even while not pulling the 5th, not really sure though with the new technology in these newer vehicles. Luckily my truck is still under warranty, I'll take it in, see what they find out. and the saga continues.

 

[JohnD]

Could be a tranny cooler issue . . .

 

[JanAndBill]

I have a 2013 Dodge Ram Diesel 6.7 (24000 Mi) that I pull a 2015 Heartland 3110 toy hauler (16K) with. The problem is that the truck is now starting to overheat, big time!.. I have pulled my RV countless times over Donner summit approx. 7900 ft (California) with no problem, the Ram is really a work horse, but this past weekend when pulling it over the hill the truck was really overheating to the point I had to pull over and let it cool down; needles to say I nursed it back home and canceled the camping trip. I know there could be a number of things that can contribute to overheating, but has anyone ever encountered this in their dodge Ram, if so, what was problem/fix? The coolant level is where it should be,
the fan is turning and the serpentine belt is in good shape. It seems to be ok while not pulling the RV, but as soon I hook'er up; there goes the temp guage into never never land..the temp goes up to the point where it tells me that the "coolant is too hot"(around the 245 mark; way too hot..)

Not familiar with the later model Cummins, but 245 sounds way to hot. I would think 210 to 220 max on a hard pull. My Ford will defuel at 225. Are you running a controller? I know you said the fan is turning, but is it actually kicking in or freewheeling? If it's kicking in you should hear the roar when it does. Is this the first time it's gotten that hot or has it run hotter than normal before? You said the coolant level is ok, but have you had to add coolant previously? If it got to 245 I would think you would have lost some coolant??? A leaking head gasket can cause a "flash" heating problem in a pull but you should be seeing pressure/coolant being forced out of the cap. The other problem you might be having is if you've run it hot in the past you might have gaulded a cylinder. That will cause an overheat in a pull without the loss of coolant.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Mullins, not knowing much about the Ram trucks. Is the fan clutch a manual or electric. If electric, its possible that temp sensor is is not turning on the fan when needed. The ECM needs to see the correct input from the sensor. A Cummins might have more than one temp sensor....so the one for the fan maybe bad.

 

[whp4262]

I had an older Ram diesel that would start running hot occasionally. When it did I would wash out the radiator fins real good with a pressure washer and the temp would drop back to normal until they got dirty again after a few months.


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[Bob&Patty]

Its better to use compressed air rather than water. High pressure water can bend the radiator fins. But always blow from the inside out. If you blow from the front...all you do is drive the bugs and stuff farther in. JMHO as 45 year auto tech.

 

[Mullins]

I believe there is a controller, and this is first time that my truck has overheated, normally when I pull over the hill it will hit about 210 to 215 max.(Ambient Temp And I do hear the other fans kick in, but this time there was nothing, that is telling me that it is thermostat controlled. When it did overheat I did loose about a cup or 2 of coolant, it was leaking from a "Y" connection up top, not sure what that is for though. I'm taking it to the shop next Tuesday and we'll see what they find. What's really weird though my check engine light never came on. More to follow.. Thanks for the input..

Not familiar with the later model Cummins, but 245 sounds way to hot. I would think 210 to 220 max on a hard pull. My Ford will defuel at 225. Are you running a controller? I know you said the fan is turning, but is it actually kicking in or freewheeling? If it's kicking in you should hear the roar when it does. Is this the first time it's gotten that hot or has it run hotter than normal before? You said the coolant level is ok, but have you had to add coolant previously? If it got to 245 I would think you would have lost some coolant??? A leaking head gasket can cause a "flash" heating problem in a pull but you should be seeing pressure/coolant being forced out of the cap. The other problem you might be having is if you've run it hot in the past you might have gaulded a cylinder. That will cause an overheat in a pull without the loss of coolant.

 

[Mburtsvt]

I believe there is a controller, and this is first time that my truck has overheated, normally when I pull over the hill it will hit about 210 to 215 max.(Ambient Temp And I do hear the other fans kick in, but this time there was nothing, that is telling me that it is thermostat controlled. When it did overheat I did loose about a cup or 2 of coolant, it was leaking from a "Y" connection up top, not sure what that is for though. I'm taking it to the shop next Tuesday and we'll see what they find. What's really weird though my check engine light never came on. More to follow.. Thanks for the input..

My money is still on the PCM, (Powertrain Control Module), Sorry.

 

[JanAndBill]

I believe there is a controller, and this is first time that my truck has overheated, normally when I pull over the hill it will hit about 210 to 215 max.(Ambient Temp And I do hear the other fans kick in, but this time there was nothing, that is telling me that it is thermostat controlled. When it did overheat I did loose about a cup or 2 of coolant, it was leaking from a "Y" connection up top, not sure what that is for though. I'm taking it to the shop next Tuesday and we'll see what they find. What's really weird though my check engine light never came on. More to follow.. Thanks for the input..

A tuner/controller is an aftermarket programming device that alters the manufacturer's programming of the vehicle ECM/PCM to produce additional horsepower, towing capability and fuel economy. However the use of a controller can place additional strain on the engine, lead to maintenance issues if the operator is not attentive to vehicle operation, and voids the manufacturer's warranty.

How are you coming up with temperature readings are you using the analog vehicle gauges? These engines are designed to run warm, but not hot. Your thermostat is set to start opening at 195 degrees, and isn't fully open till 215 degrees. There are fail safe controls built in that are supposed to cut fuel to the engine before it melts down, unless you over ride the manufacturers programming with a tuner/controller. One comment you made, is that the engine didn't cool down at an idle after overheating. The ECM/PCM controls the operation of the fan based on engine rpm, coolant temperature, ambient temperature, vehicle speed, transmission temperature, load, etc. The ECM/PCM uses those multiple signals to control the fan speed, which is why you won't hear the fan come on at the exact same temperature every time, nor will it be as loud every time. If your engine was that hot, even at an idle your fan should have been full on.

By all means keep us updated on what you find!

 

[wdk450]

I would take the truck to a good local radiator/cooling shop and let the experts check it out. I have gone through 2 water pumps in my 04 Ram with the 6cyl Cummins, but when all is right I pull the 16K Bighorn over Donner summit O.K.

I might think about some sort of readout of exhaust gas temperature, either through your OBD port, or a separate transducer drilled into you exhaust gas manifold. I have found that the EGT rises much more rapidly than a correctly working coolant system, and you can downshift or slow down to mitigate high EGT before aluminum starts melting in your engine. Some people say that the engine computer would defuel the engine before overheating damage can take place, but I don't want to risk it. EGT guages are standard equipment on semis.

Since you say that the overheating just happens when towing your trailer, could poor horsepower be the problem? Maybe you could get your truck on a dynomometer to check the horsepower.

 

[Mullins]

Well, here is the update: You are spot on; it was the fan clutch, unfortunately it took the dealer two times in the shop to get it right. Truck is running as it should ; test drove it with the trailer in tow, about 60 miles up hill, truck ran as expected, while towing, temp got up to about 210 -215; that was expected. So far so good..

Mullins, not knowing much about the Ram trucks. Is the fan clutch a manual or electric. If electric, its possible that temp sensor is is not turning on the fan when needed. The ECM needs to see the correct input from the sensor. A Cummins might have more than one temp sensor....so the one for the fan maybe bad.

 

[mcolson84]

Good to hear! Glad it was any easy fix! My 05' did that to me twice. It was the 5 and 6 injector stuck wide open both times. Had to replace them at a hefty cost do to mods. 1st at 26k and again at 48k. Glad it was simple!