Dometic 310 Question

[Garypowell]

First, I love this toilet....is that OK to say?

My question is the water level after the "flush". Initially I could not tell there was any water left in the bowl due to the fact that the level was right at the black seal level.

During the first weeks operation we noticed every so often that the water level would end up being about 1/2" above the ball/seal.

But there seems to be no regularity with where the final water level ends up being. About half the time there is this 1/2' of water left.....sometimes just enough to cover the ball/seal.

Certainly there is some operator input to the operation.....but we have been using these kinds of toilets for 20 years.

So is your water level always at the same spot in your 310 after the flush? And if not.....any theories why not?

Thanks,

 

[danemayer]

From the Dometic 310 Manual:

7 Operation
7.1 Add water to bowl
To add water to the toilet, press the flush pedal
part way down. Water flows into the bowl while
flush ball remains closed. If the flush ball moves,
let up on the pedal slightly. Adding water to an
empty bowl helps prevent holding tank odors from
entering the living space. Adding water is recommended
prior to flushing solids and toilet paper.
7.2 Flush toilet
To flush, press pedal down until it contacts the
floor. Release pedal after complete flush.
• When flushing liquids, press the pedal for 1-2 seconds.
• When flushing solids, press pedal until contents are rinsed from bowl. Flushing longer than
necessary will cause holding tank to fill too quickly.
A small amount of water will collect in the bowl after a flush to create an airtight seal.

We usually add a little water after the flush.

 

[TravelTiger]

It probably depends on how quickly you let up the pedal. If you let your foot slide off the side and the ball slams shut, it may cut the water off more quickly. If you raise your foot off the pedal strait up, it doesn't slam fast and the water may flow a little longer into the bowl.

It could also be related to varying water pressure. I know some parks, even with consistently using a regulator, have better flow than others. And demand within the rig can affect the flow. If kitchen sink is on, bathroom flow may be reduced.


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[Gaffer]

Hey Gary I think you need to upgrade to the 320. Have I got a deal for you https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/59204-New-in-box-Dometic-320?highlight=dometic+320

 

[Garypowell]

Gaffer won't fit. Thought about moving pipe but too much work.

Others, thanks. Sounds like that is just the way it works.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Gary, on our "07...you have to pull the pedal up after a flush to add water to the bowl.

 

[olcoon]

I was having problems with our 310 the water was hardly coming out. We've had our rig since April of 2010. Figured it was possibly a bad valve. Bought a new one ($50.00 piece of plastic!), and finally got around to tearing into it. Found out that the valve wasn't the problem, but what appeared to be crushed sea shells (it was probably scale) had clogged it up. Since I already had it almost all the way off, I went ahead & replaced the valve, and installed a shutoff valve before the toilet valve. To check to see of this is your problem, all you've got to do is to shut off the water supply, flush the stool, unscrew the inlet line and you can see if it's clogged. Here are some photos of what I removed. As you can see it was pretty well clogged, surprised any water was getting through!

 

[Gaffer]

You could get an offset flange

Gaffer won't fit. Thought about moving pipe but too much work.

Others, thanks. Sounds like that is just the way it works.

 

[Gary521]

We have a new Bighorn with a Thetford toilet. We have the same issue. Not much water in the bowl after a flush.

 

[Diamondjim]

Don't want to hijack this thread.....................love my 310 as well, however, one of the water inlet holes (high on the rim) has started nasty rust staining, width of hole and running down the side. What is/has caused this? This is the first sign of a problem. Assume something in the rim has caused metal to be exposed and thus rust. Can not see what the cause may be.
Suggestions appreciated.

 

[jbeletti]

I was having problems with our 310 the water was hardly coming out. We've had our rig since April of 2010. Figured it was possibly a bad valve. Bought a new one ($50.00 piece of plastic!), and finally got around to tearing into it. Found out that the valve wasn't the problem, but what appeared to be crushed sea shells (it was probably scale) had clogged it up. Since I already had it almost all the way off, I went ahead & replaced the valve, and installed a shutoff valve before the toilet valve. To check to see of this is your problem, all you've got to do is to shut off the water supply, flush the stool, unscrew the inlet line and you can see if it's clogged. Here are some photos of what I removed. As you can see it was pretty well clogged, surprised any water was getting through!

Oh my gosh Roy! that was clogged up at the toilet valve? Wonder what's behind the sink and shower faucet screens?

So is your theory that this is not heavy particulate matter brought in from the water supply but scale that has built up in your plumbing system?

 

[JohnDar]

That looks like some serious hard water scale. Are you running a filter system for your water?


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[Momo]

You could get an offset flange

How difficult is this to install? I have a brand new Prowler with a 310 and ordered a new 320. Just found out I need more "roughin" space. Did not even know what that meant.
Any idea how difficult it would be to install this offset?

 

[danemayer]

How difficult is this to install? I have a brand new Prowler with a 310 and ordered a new 320. Just found out I need more "roughin" space. Did not even know what that meant.
Any idea how difficult it would be to install this offset?

It looks like you would have to remove the existing toilet and flange, maybe cut the existing 3" PVC to fit the new part, and screw the new part into place. Then put the toilet back.

Difficulty probably depends on how easy it is to get to the area under the toilet.

 

[mlpeloquin]

Don't want to hijack this thread.....................love my 310 as well, however, one of the water inlet holes (high on the rim) has started nasty rust staining, width of hole and running down the side. What is/has caused this? This is the first sign of a problem. Assume something in the rim has caused metal to be exposed and thus rust. Can not see what the cause may be.
Suggestions appreciated.

All the junk in the other post and the rust can be from a park with a well and one with old galvanized pipe. If you do not use a filter and the well has a sediment buildup it can send sand and debris into the water system and into your rig. The same with old galvanized pipe breaking down will send small peaces of iron into your rig. Just like my house until I had it re-plumed with copper. Heartland uses PEX lines and the water heater maybe aluminum. If not, how old is it? Porcelain coated iron water heaters can also be a source of iron, but they would be many years old before they would break down through the porcelain and break down the iron shell.

 

[Garypowell]

Thought I would revisit now that we have a few flushes on the 310. Travetiger got it right. It is a combination of how long you hold the foot peddle down and water pressure.

There seems to be a void space behind all of the upper holes.... As you press the peddle you can hear water accumulate before it starts to come out. With sufficient water pressure and duration I believe this void fills up above the holes so that when you lift up on the peddle this excess water ends up in the bowl and results in a higher water level there.

Started to notice when moving the rig and using onboard pump we would never get much of a seal.

So so we just hold the peddle down a little longer and at most parks have gotten a higher water level than the minimum we had first gotten.

- - - Updated - - -

Thought I would revisit now that we have a few flushes on the 310. Travetiger got it right. It is a combination of how long you hold the foot peddle down and water pressure.

There seems to be a void space behind all of the upper holes.... As you press the peddle you can hear water accumulate before it starts to come out. With sufficient water pressure and duration I believe this void fills up above the holes so that when you lift up on the peddle this excess water ends up in the bowl and results in a higher water level there.

Started to notice when moving the rig and using onboard pump we would never get much of a seal.

So so we just hold the peddle down a little longer and at most parks have gotten a higher water level than the minimum we had first gotten.