DOMETIC, Model:DM2652LBX
- Thread starter QUERY-01
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- dometic model:dm2652lbx
Dahillbilly
Well-known member
needs the 12vdc for the ignitor to light the LP gas flame
centerline
Well-known member
when you turn on the fridge to "gas", the interior light and thermostat control board on the fridge is operated by 12v power (and any fans that may be installed).... which is a low drain, but still a drain on the batteries...
if you have the refrigerator set to batt/12v operation, the COOLING unit will use a high volume of current while the unit is in "cool down" mode, and drain a 100amp battery in a day or less....
when on AC/120v power, depending on the unit, it will either convert the power to 12v to operate, or it will have a 120v element installed that will do the job, keeping the 12v element offline, to be used when desired when 120v is not available.....
in EVERY case, the control circuitry in the fridge needs 12v power to operate ANY time its turned on....
the ONLY reason to operated the fridge on 12v is for a brief period when you run out of propane.... otherwise, on 12v its just a waster of a precious commodity that can be hard to come by in some situations.... use the gas, or the 120v settings for the best performance...
if you have the refrigerator set to batt/12v operation, the COOLING unit will use a high volume of current while the unit is in "cool down" mode, and drain a 100amp battery in a day or less....
when on AC/120v power, depending on the unit, it will either convert the power to 12v to operate, or it will have a 120v element installed that will do the job, keeping the 12v element offline, to be used when desired when 120v is not available.....
in EVERY case, the control circuitry in the fridge needs 12v power to operate ANY time its turned on....
the ONLY reason to operated the fridge on 12v is for a brief period when you run out of propane.... otherwise, on 12v its just a waster of a precious commodity that can be hard to come by in some situations.... use the gas, or the 120v settings for the best performance...
wdk450
Well-known member
The 12 VDC runs a logic circuit board that senses when 120 vac is present (in the "Auto" mode) and selects that power mode first, then reverts to LP gas mode is 120 VAC is NOT present. The 12 VDC also turns on the LP gas supply solenoid valve, along with the gas igniter circuitry, if needed.
You have to have the refrigerator circuit board working (12 vdc present) for the refrigerator to work in ANY mode.
Thank you *all* for the swift replies and confirming my final suspicion that --the extremely low voltage was the cause\trigger.
Initially, without a detailed service manual: 1) thought once the pilot was lit\ignited, it remained lit, --even with the absence of 12\vdc, and the propane system would remain active as long as lp was available; and the valve being open. Using that scenario, I had no clue how the refrigeration cycle worked. It wasn't until this event that I learned of absorption.
2) In this case, I would have thought once the units' circuity was absent of 12\vdc the OEM would have killed all power to the unit; why have 12\vdc available to the interior light (rhetorical) when the rest of the circuitry is dead? The external 'check' light, the melted ice-cream had me initially thinking the lp was depleted. As you've already read my path of thinking/troubleshooting without any prior experience or service manual, is there anything I c/should have done differently?
Respectfully.
Initially, without a detailed service manual: 1) thought once the pilot was lit\ignited, it remained lit, --even with the absence of 12\vdc, and the propane system would remain active as long as lp was available; and the valve being open. Using that scenario, I had no clue how the refrigeration cycle worked. It wasn't until this event that I learned of absorption.
2) In this case, I would have thought once the units' circuity was absent of 12\vdc the OEM would have killed all power to the unit; why have 12\vdc available to the interior light (rhetorical) when the rest of the circuitry is dead? The external 'check' light, the melted ice-cream had me initially thinking the lp was depleted. As you've already read my path of thinking/troubleshooting without any prior experience or service manual, is there anything I c/should have done differently?
Respectfully.
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