Easy way to get to the plastic drain or condensation line on the back of the frig

RandyDeb

Active Member
Any easy way to access the drain or condensation line on the back of the refrigerator? It's 5/8 OD, white corrugated and real brittle. I was cleaning and removed the access panel on the outside of the trailer. The hose should be long enough to hang outside, but it didn't so when I pulled on it ,it got about 4" shorter all most as soon as I touched it. Obviously it gets hot back there. Do I need to pull the wood trim off inside and slide the frig out? Would a clear fuel line be the best replacement?
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Look inside the fridge and just below the cooling fins inside on the back wall will be a drip tray. At the lower end you should find a drain fitting protruding from the back wall. This is what the white plastic junk is hooked to outside. This should be removable by pulling it out.... at least mine is...the drain hose is attached to the back side. I was able to pull this out and put a piece of old drinking water hose that I had on it and fed it back through the hole in the fridge from inside. I don't remember for sure, but I think I put some super glue or something on the hose because a clamp will not go through the opening in the back of the fridge.

Let us know if this works for you.

Jim M
 

olcoon

Well-known member
Had to replace ours also. I got some clear water line (local RV store had it, cheap), took off the outside panel on the back of the fridge, & had to use a flashlight to find where it hooked on to the top of the fridge. I was lucky & my arm fit up there, & was barely long enough. It was just being held on by friction, & that's how I replaced it. I got enough new line to leave a bend (not a kink) in the new line to form kind of a "P" trap. Theory is that it'll keep bugs out, and prevent hot air from the outside getting into the fridge. Also, the RV store had the little vent plug that goes into the outside end of the hose.
 

szewczyk_john

Well-known member
I had to replace mine late last year. I did have to remove the wood trim at the top of the access panel. At was at the Richmond race so McGeorges was right down the road. They sold me a piece with the drain piece on the end that goes into the fridge. The piece went in real nice and easy. the part was not expensive at all.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I redid ours last summer working from the top grill opening. Used a short piece of clear tubing to a brass 90-deg. elbow with a length of reinforced water hose running to the lower grill outside. I managed to get a zip tie on the connection to the drain pan tube with the wife holding the pan in place inside. The little endcap fit the hose snugly. Ran the hose so it didn't contact any hot surfaces yet was a straight drop to the grill.


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Gary521

Well-known member
Another thing you can do is put an evaporation pan (tray) inside the compartment in the back of the refrigerator. Run the drain hose into this pan. Put a screen on the vent openings to keep the bugs out ( Camco sells these ). The modern refrigerators are set up this way. I did this to my former unit.
 

szewczyk_john

Well-known member
I would not use any of those screens used to cover vents. Those screens prevent so much heat from dissipating that they cause more problems than the solve. I've attended plenty of presentations at rallys and other RV events and have heard way too many experts speak about the harm that those screens do by preventing heat from getting away from the device.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
I did not realize that. I called Norcold to verify this and they said not to use the bug screen on the refrigerator but to try flea collars.
 

bh3585

Member
This is great timing because I have to cap off my water supply line to my ice maker that has a pin hole in it on my 2011 3585RL and my drain tube is shot so I'm going to replace it as well
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
This is great timing because I have to cap off my water supply line to my ice maker that has a pin hole in it on my 2011 3585RL and my drain tube is shot so I'm going to replace it as well
I've done both in my 2011 3585. Depending on what refrigerator you have the job is not too bad.
When replacing the water line remove the drawer from under the refrigerator. That will make things a bit easier when trying to fish the new line.
Everything else can be done through the outside vents.

Peace
Dave
 

wdk450

Well-known member
This is great timing because I have to cap off my water supply line to my ice maker that has a pin hole in it on my 2011 3585RL and my drain tube is shot so I'm going to replace it as well

Having this happen repeatedly to me was my cue to remove the ice bin in the freezer for more freezer "stuff" space. I then bought one of the tabletop icemakers through Walmart. It works faster and just has an internal water reservoir you fill. Here is a link: https://www.walmart.com/ip/MRP-US-P...lectable-Cube-Size-New-IC605-Silver/539724616
You can find many similar at different prices on Walmrt or other websites.
 

RandyDeb

Active Member
It was a ten minute job to R&R the drain tube. I have a removable panel at the top of the frig also. I would recommend turning the frig off for 30 minutes before you start so the pipes can cool off. Also watch out for the cooling fins on the top, they are real sharp and bad words will come out of your mouth!!!! I used a clear 1/2" ID plastic hose that I got at Menards, 10' for about $5.00 and I have about 6' left over. I did rap the tube once to make a p trap as recommended by you guys. I also put the zip tie on the hose before installing it on the nipple so I could just pull it when the time came...
 
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