EMS Protection

[lhetsler]

Ems

Sorry, can't help, I have the portable unit.

 

[2010augusta]

Where have you guys mounted the hard wired units? I have a Bighorn 3410RE with the power cord reel. Any sugestions?

Thanks

Ted

I mounted mine right next to the transfer switch. It is behind the battery storage area. little hard to get to, but provides easy access to the power cords. Mine is only on the shore power line, genset is not protected, too many ground issues that it I heard about.

 

[Pulltab]

Tx Bob, the unit sacrafices itself in the case of a power surge. Electronics will stop the power from going farther. Now if the power were just plain dangerous and you pluged in the wire going to the surge protector would be at risk. But I can't imagine that you would have ever got it plugged in if it was that dangerous. If that was a big concern a portable unit may solve your worries.

As you have seen this Company is exceptional at warranty! And it doesn't stop at their published period, he told me when he replaced mine that he has NEVER charged anyone for repairing one. He knows what this type of PR does for a company. Thumbs up for sure!

 

[jimpav]

Mounted my 50 amp hardwired EMS in the compartment next to the power converter. The only comment I would have would be to have the case enlarged. It was really difficult to get the two current sensors around the wires, and then to have to connect to the screw terminals. There's no reason to have the box that small. It's probably not too difficult with the 30 amp units, but the 50 amp wires are "huge" and don't bend that easily. (see my profile for install pics).

 

[hcriddle]

Is there a difference between an autoformer and the EMS? I was looking at the Hughes autoformer this morning but I was wondering if this does the same thing or would you need both.
Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[JohnDar]

Is there a difference between an autoformer and the EMS? I was looking at the Hughes autoformer this morning but I was wondering if this does the same thing or would you need both.
Thanks in advance for the help.

The autoformer will modify the line voltage up or down to keep it within a safe operating range...if it can. Otherwise, I believe they will act like a surge protector and shut down the incoming power. With the surge protector, it simply shuts down when the power fluctuates out of acceptable range, thus isolating the coach from the pedestal. The better ones will reset themselves when the right power level is restored. The Progressive hardwired unit, with remote display, will retain the error code on the display that caused the unit to trip. When I moved mine from its original location, I had to add a longer length of 6-3 w/g cable from it to the circuit breaker panel. I did have to open the box to reconnect the wires and sensors. Fortunately, I had some previous experience with #6 wire and pre-bent the wires to make the connections easier. A little tricky, but nothing a series of exceptionally nasty expletives could not handle .

 

[hcriddle]

Thanks John. The thing I wasn't sure about was whether or not it would shut down to protect my BH. The one I looked at was a portable model that plugs into the box at the cg so I would have to find a way to keep it from walking off. It is about $100 more than the hardwired EMS from Progressive.

 

[jmgratz]

Thanks John. The thing I wasn't sure about was whether or not it would shut down to protect my BH. The one I looked at was a portable model that plugs into the box at the cg so I would have to find a way to keep it from walking off. It is about $100 more than the hardwired EMS from Progressive.

I have the portable EMS 50amp from Progressive an use a bicycle chain to secure it to the pedistal. The EMS has a ring to secure the lock to.

 

[JohnDar]

Thanks John. The thing I wasn't sure about was whether or not it would shut down to protect my BH. The one I looked at was a portable model that plugs into the box at the cg so I would have to find a way to keep it from walking off. It is about $100 more than the hardwired EMS from Progressive.

I saw a camper with the SurgeGuard portable model on a BH a couple of weeks ago. Had to use a pigtail from the pedestal to the SurgeGuard and had the lock cable attached to that, not the pedestal. The from the SG to the trailer with the standard detachable marine connector cord. Where's the security in that? We leave our rig connected to the pedestal when we're not there. The hardwired unit solves two concerns, even if Joe Schmuck decides my cord would look better on his camper. Any padlock/chain can be defeated.

 

[hcriddle]

I checked on the Hughes on the Internet and found a hardwire kit they sell for the portable. It allows you to mount the portable inside the basement and so it should be secure. My problem now is whether it is worth spending the extra money to get the autoformer instead of the Progressive EMS.

 

[jbeletti]

I checked on the Hughes on the Internet and found a hardwire kit they sell for the portable. It allows you to mount the portable inside the basement and so it should be secure. My problem now is whether it is worth spending the extra money to get the autoformer instead of the Progressive EMS.

Some people get both. Seriously. The Autoformer will boost the voltage during low-voltage conditions at the CG as well as provide "some" surge suppression.

The EMS will cut-out if the voltage is so low that it cannot be corrected by the Autoformer. I think it will cut out during high over-voltage as well. And of course, they do a god job of surge suppression.

If buying one of the other, and based on feedback I have read on Progressive's customer service, it may be the route to go.

This from a guy who only uses the Autoformer.

Still learning....

Jim

 

[hcriddle]

Thanks Jim. I have been impressed with what I have read about Progressive's customer service as well. I think that is the route I will go.

 

[JohnDar]

Here's a thought, albeit an expensive one. With either the hardwired Progressive unit, or a portable one, put the appropriate male/female plugs on the main cable INSIDE the basement where you can get at it and mount the device. With the hardwired units, you would need to add the mating connector on a short wire to the input and output sides. For the portable ones, just plug it in. Similar to the Hughes adapter idea. I've thought about doing this for my Progressive, just in case I ever need to send it back for repairs. While it's gone, I could just reattach the main cable via the plugs and have power (unprotected) if I needed it.

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

John: funny how firefighters think alike . As soon as I read that thread last night I thought to myself "self, why not cut the cable then put a male end on one end and a female end on ta-other, then just plug em in to a portable unit."

 

[JohnDar]

John: funny how firefighters think alike . As soon as I read that thread last night I thought to myself "self, why not cut the cable then put a male end on one end and a female end on ta-other, then just plug em in to a portable unit."

I think it's part of the mental illness associated with running into buildings that others are running out of.

Might make it to my list of storage yard projects, the ones before or after the snow flies. Along with modifying the basement walls so they are either hinged, slide, or have an easy access door.

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Almost as bad a police officer chasing a bad guy.

 

[porthole]

Have you priced the connectors yet? That might make you change your mind, especially the 50amp 125/250 version.

The "transformer" currently carried by camping world and on sale this month specifically states on the cover that it is not a surge protector.

 

[JohnDar]

Have you priced the connectors yet? That might make you change your mind, especially the 50amp 125/250 version.

The "transformer" currently carried by camping world and on sale this month specifically states on the cover that it is not a surge protector.

Yes, I have. Two female 50A replacement ends and two male 50A ends...$100. Add some electrical grease to protect against oxidation ($8) and some cable ties to keep them from wiggling apart, and it's done.