Finding the "ignition" side of my trucks electrical system

[Bob&Patty]

Gary, you bought the one for "in betweenie" fuse. That's what we called them in auto dealer industry when they came out with the "ity bity" fuses. Then you had the maxie fuses....whole nuther story. If you use the inside fuse panel, you will have to bore a hole in firewall to run the wire. I'm sure you can remove a fuse in the under hood fuse/relay center and make it work. Use the A/C fuse (compressor I think) as it is only hot in key on.

 

[Lynn1130]

You should not have to bore a hole in the firewall to get the wire through. Just to the passenger side of the steering shaft and up about midway is a rubber grommet. That Grommet is just above the main wiring box on the inside firewall. With a good wire such as a coat hanger or fish wire you can punch through the grommet to fish your wire in or out. I have run backup camera, exhaust brake and a couple of other wire through it.

 

[Garypowell]

Progress to date....and I might have to give up on my dream to wire this into the engine fuse box such that it is only hot when the key is turned.

1. Determined that these fuse taps seem to be only available for the middle sized fuse. Most of the fuses in my 15 Chevy are the smallest. I have a few of the medium sized but they are all three legged. And fuse taps don't come in the smallest size.

2. Non of the other empty slots I can find seem to be hot no matter of key position. But this also might be related to #3.

3. It also seems to me that the fuse is in the wire after the switch. My logic comes from house wiring where the fuse (breaker) comes first and then the hot goes to the switch. The neutral is up at the light or load. And the switch leg connects the two so the load is energized.

But I finally found a hot fuse after a lot of testing in the horn circuit. But the only time I could get power was when the horn was being actively pressed to sound. So this means the fuse has to be after the load. Maybe that is required in 12 volt systems or at least the norm.....just never dug in this far.

My point here is that I wanted to get power from some circuit that was not being used routinely....like the horn or interior lights. But if they are all wired like the horn I can only use a circuit when the device is for is energized. My fuel pump is not that big of a load but I don't like the idea of adding to a circuit that is in use.

I was going to go ahead and hot wire it into my aux fuse box (connected directly to the battery that already powers my TPMS and Garmin) but it started raining.....there is always Monday....tomorrow is Football.

Some have suggested I use the fuse panel in the door. I have looked in there and just the smallest fuses again....and it is already packed with my junction for the TPMS and Garmin system.

If anyone has any other idea's I have a little time waiting for the rain to stop.

 

[jnbhobe]

There are all kinds of fuse taps available at NAPA including the little ones I gut two on Thursday

 

[Garypowell]

Thanks! I just did general search and NAPA did not come up as a potential supplier.

I know there are no close stores.....maybe 8 miles away and usually don't us them. I can go and check it out.

Still waiting for someone to comment if what I determined is correct that there is no power going through the fuse unless the circuit is in use.

Gary

 

[Sniper]

Progress to date....and I might have to give up on my dream to wire this into the engine fuse box such that it is only hot when the key is turned.

1. Determined that these fuse taps seem to be only available for the middle sized fuse. Most of the fuses in my 15 Chevy are the smallest. I have a few of the medium sized but they are all three legged. And fuse taps don't come in the smallest size.

2. Non of the other empty slots I can find seem to be hot no matter of key position. But this also might be related to #3.

3. It also seems to me that the fuse is in the wire after the switch. My logic comes from house wiring where the fuse (breaker) comes first and then the hot goes to the switch. The neutral is up at the light or load. And the switch leg connects the two so the load is energized.

But I finally found a hot fuse after a lot of testing in the horn circuit. But the only time I could get power was when the horn was being actively pressed to sound. So this means the fuse has to be after the load. Maybe that is required in 12 volt systems or at least the norm.....just never dug in this far.

My point here is that I wanted to get power from some circuit that was not being used routinely....like the horn or interior lights. But if they are all wired like the horn I can only use a circuit when the device is for is energized. My fuel pump is not that big of a load but I don't like the idea of adding to a circuit that is in use.

I was going to go ahead and hot wire it into my aux fuse box (connected directly to the battery that already powers my TPMS and Garmin) but it started raining.....there is always Monday....tomorrow is Football.

Some have suggested I use the fuse panel in the door. I have looked in there and just the smallest fuses again....and it is already packed with my junction for the TPMS and Garmin system.

If anyone has any other idea's I have a little time waiting for the rain to stop.

O'reilly auto parts has the mini add a fuse connectors. I bought a few of them not long ago http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N1177_-1_-1&pt=N1177&ppt=C0172 the fan control circuit, the wiper circuit should be hot with the key on only. Maybe you can try those. Hope this helps.

 

[Garypowell]

Thanks Jnbhobe and Sniper. Napa is not close but with the page to O'Reilly saw it and they are close. I went into the store today and the "guy" said he did not know what i was talking about and I looked all over the fuse area and did not see any....so my earlier comment.

But just ordered it for store delivery (at least proves they did not have any) so I'll wait and pick it up.

I guess the fan is on all the time so if my theory of how it works is correct I should be able to get the pump to work anytime I want.

And while I was typing this the same guy who said he did not know what I was talking about called from O'Reilly and said he was holding one in his hand.....my order had just came through......so we both learned something today.

I'll pick it up after church tomorrow and see if I can pump fuel before the game starts.

More later!

Thanks again!

 

[Garypowell]

Got excited but it was a bust again. Ordered the fuse tap as reported above and went to the store just now to pick it up. It is the same size as the one I had...which is too big for my 15 chevy 3500 fuses I need to tap into. I guess Chevy is using another new small fuse. The three sizes I am aware of from the past are the biggest (which we've had since a kid), then a medium size that looks just like the bigger one, and then there is a smaller size that does not look like the two previous as the connectors run outside of the sides of the fuse.

My Chevy has fuses that are about the size of this last fuse I described but the connectors come out the bottom like the two larger fuses described above. And it does seem like there is no fuse tap available for this size. Someone (at a parts store) told me it is new with Chevy and I have not seen any at the stores. I did a search just now on line and saw other sites that say these fuses are not available in stores yet.

So I am going to drop the idea of ignition turn off for the pump. I do understand I can break into some 12 volt power line but don't want to go digging under the dash or even in the engine compartment. So I bought a small red LED at the store this morning and will make it see-able from under the hood by where the windshield washer spray nozzle is at. This way when the pump is on the light will light up.

Once I get it all finished, which should be today, I'll start another post on the project.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[cookie]

I'm thinking your might need the Micro2 ATR size fuse.
Here is an Ebay link [LINK]

Peace
Dave

 

[Garypowell]

Cookie,

It seems like every time I want to give up you send me more information to point the way....THANKS! I have just ordered the Micro 2 fuse tap.

But it occurred to me while going through all of this that it might be good to have a way to bypass the R/C switch. So while I wait for the fuse tap I went ahead and hot wired the switch to my add on fuse block. Once the fuse tap arrives I'll install it and then have both ways....switched and unswitched.

But just filled the aux tank at Wal-Mart and pumped a quarter of a tank while I filled the tank....not bad.

I also installed a blinking red LED on top of the window washer outlet on the drivers side that when the pump is running it blinks.

Thanks everybody.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Gary, I did contact the parts department after our conversation yesterday. GM started using those fuses in mid-year 2014 models. I guess they are some what like VW used a few years back. Oh goody, now your truck won't pass smog. LOL

 

[Garypowell]

Thanks Bob. Many have tried to help but each led to a blind alley since I had these newer fuses which made the fuse tap harder to find. I think it was Cookie who finally helped start down the right path.

The package is in our PO box but not sure I'll get there today. I am recaulking every seam and want to get that done first. No later than tomorrow I'll get the package and if it is the correct fuse tap for these smaller fuses I'll let you know.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Thanks Gary, since mine has the older mini fuses I should be able to get a fuse tap.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Gary, I found on at O'Riley's yesterday. Installed it today. Works like champ.

 

[Garypowell]

Bob,

I hadn't written back since you said you needed a more standard one. I received mine yesterday but have not had the chance to put it in. It looks right this time at least.

I'll post again once I know for sure with pictures, part numbers, etc so any other 2015 chevy folks can find one. It was quit a search for me.

Glad you found the one you needed.

Gary

 

[Garypowell]

Finally have this all figured out. Several folks have helped but in the final analysis it turns out my 2015 Chevy has a newer style of fuse in it called the "Micro2 APT ATR". As you read above Bob found out they started using this smaller size in mid 2014. It started as my search to power an aux fuel pump via the ignition side of my electrical system. This lead me via Cookies post there was such a thing as a "fuse tap". But after several tries I could not find the right size of fuse tap. Once again with Bob's and Cookies help realized I had this new smaller fuse.

Now, as pictured below, I have the correct fuse tap. Mainly posting here so others with later model Chevy's can see it for their reference. I found this on Amazon for around $7.00 with prime shipping.

Again, thanks to all for your help.

Gary