FIX for warm refrigerator in 2012 Big Country Model 3690SL

[icechex]

I remember reading on this forum about the 'fix' for the warm refrigerator in the Big Country 3690SL, and the 'fix' for this problem was to mount a fan in the back of the refrigerator. I'd like to look at that answer/explanation again. Does anyone remember this or know where I might find it.

The refrigerator just ran a little wam and the fan was to help it, which it did.

thanks

 

[danemayer]

If you have a Norcold refrigerator, it probably has 2 fans already, but perhaps they're not working correctly. They're located close to the top exterior vent cover.

If you have a Dometic RM1350, you may have to add fans. Dometic has a fan kit, or if you choose, you could just buy fans and wire them in yourself. Adding thermostatic control so they don't run all the time is probably the trickiest part.

You could also purchase 2 120x120MM blowers and mount one on the bottom vent cover and the other on the top. They move a ton of air. But you'll want to add a switch, and some disconnect plugs to allow you to remove the covers easily.

You probably want to power the fans or blowers from the 5V DC supply so when the refrigerator is off, the fans aren't powered. If you pull power from the 15 amp circuit out of the fuse box, you can use an added switch to cut power to the fans.

Alternatively, 120V AC fans with ball bearings will probably last longer. You could plug them into the refrigerator outlet. But on an RM1350, one receptacle powers the refrigerator and the other the ice maker. So you'll have to make a change there.

 

[icechex]

If you have a Norcold refrigerator, it probably has 2 fans already, but perhaps they're not working correctly. They're located close to the top exterior vent cover.

If you have a Dometic RM1350, you may have to add fans. Dometic has a fan kit, or if you choose, you could just buy fans and wire them in yourself. Adding thermostatic control so they don't run all the time is probably the trickiest part.

You could also purchase 2 120x120MM blowers and mount one on the bottom vent cover and the other on the top. They move a ton of air. But you'll want to add a switch, and some disconnect plugs to allow you to remove the covers easily.

You probably want to power the fans or blowers from the 5V DC supply so when the refrigerator is off, the fans aren't powered. If you pull power from the 15 amp circuit out of the fuse box, you can use an added switch to cut power to the fans.

Alternatively, 120V AC fans with ball bearings will probably last longer. You could plug them into the refrigerator outlet. But on an RM1350, one receptacle powers the refrigerator and the other the ice maker. So you'll have to make a change there.

thanks for the ideas!

 

[carl.swoyer]

I added 2 fans that I salvaged from a Magnum inverter and I removed the sheet of aluminum in the top vent. The fans are wired into the factory fans so they cycle on with them. Adding a cap to the exhaust stack made an incredible difference as well. So now my normal setting is 3 and 4 and no more struggling with getting the frig cold.

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[wdk450]

Check out this webpage for vent fans, baffles, etc from a RV refrigerator cooling unit specialty company:
https://rvcoolingunit.com/-Cooling-Performance-Fans-items-C320215.aspx?sid=298

 

[RoadJunkie]

The addition of fans will likely help, but I would be leary about modifying any other aspect that may cause the boiler to reach higher temperatures. In this case the refrigerator is at least 8 years old and the problem could be something other that moving air, a sodium chromate block or partial block, for example. You may need to measure the temperature at the boiler (when operating) to rule out a potentially bad electrical heating element. That is, assuming the fridge works better when on gas. Are your fans turning on (operational thermal switch) at the proper temperature? I hope it's simply the fans, but please consider other possibilities as well.

 

[carl.swoyer]

The addition of fans will likely help, but I would be leary about modifying any other aspect that may cause the boiler to reach higher temperatures. In this case the refrigerator is at least 8 years old and the problem could be something other that moving air, a sodium chromate block or partial block, for example. You may need to measure the temperature at the boiler (when operating) to rule out a potentially bad electrical heating element. That is, assuming the fridge works better when on gas. Are your fans turning on (operational thermal switch) at the proper temperature? I hope it's simply the fans, but please consider other possibilities as well.

The refrigerator has a high temperature thermostat.
It turns the fans on at or about 130/135°>
All other aspects of the 1210 Norcold check out per the Norcold service manual.

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[Seaulayter]

Have to tried resetting the board?

 

[Gary521]

I remember reading on this forum about the 'fix' for the warm refrigerator in the Big Country 3690SL, and the 'fix' for this problem was to mount a fan in the back of the refrigerator. I'd like to look at that answer/explanation again. Does anyone remember this or know where I might find it.

The refrigerator just ran a little wam and the fan was to help it, which it did.

thanks

The fix is to mount fans not a fan. You can run the fans with the existing thermostat or with a new one. The thermostat is mounted on the top fins or the piping adjacent to the fins. This can be done with hose clamps or screws to the fins. I would not use a switch to turn the fans on and off as you will be doing this constantly or just forget. When people say the thermostat turns on at 130 or 135 it is not air temperature it is the surface temperature of the fins as they get very warm.
Here is how one guy did it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wVTP89-Btg

 

[carl.swoyer]

The fix is to mount fans not a fan. You can run the fans with the existing thermostat or with a new one. The thermostat is mounted on the top fins or the piping adjacent to the fins. This can be done with hose clamps or screws to the fins. I would not use a switch to turn the fans on and off as you will be doing this constantly or just forget. When people say the thermostat turns on at 130 or 135 it is not air temperature it is the surface temperature of the fins as they get very warm.
Here is how one guy did it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wVTP89-Btg

That exactly how I did it. I also replaced the thermostat your talking about with a new one. All 4 fans cycle on together. This is the best performance ever from my Nowcold 1210.

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[wdk450]

Check out this page for some ammonia RV refrigerator cooling unit tests. One has you simply wire the electric heaters directly to the 110 vac power for a couple of days - temp in the refrig should get below freezing.

https://www.rvcoolingunit.com/Tech_Information-W508.aspx

 

[Angler]

The Norcold in my 2019 Bighorn, works great in mild temps. 1st trip I was able to use it was in Parker AZ, outside temp was 105, fridge would stay around 45 degrees in the day, cooled down at night.

Looks like I will be installing a 4 fan setup before Summer.