Frequency to Repack Wheel Bearings?

[Dale Smith]

We are the owners of a 2011 Bighorn fifth wheel trailer and I am wondering the frequency for which to repack the wheel bearings.
The trailer has a full year of use on it now, including an 8000 km round-trip to Arizona, plus various shorter excursions this past summer.I have not done any service work on the wheel bearings at all.

With the axles and bearings on this particular level of trailer, how often should I be looking at repacking the wheel bearings?

On past trailers that I have owned, I always repacked the bearings annually. Now that this annual date has arrived, I'm trying to understand whether this is overkill. Or whether I should go ahead and have the bearings done?

Any help that you could give me would be appreciated.

I did not see any evidence of a thread discussing this subject.

Dale

 

[jnbhobe]

Its been a topic here many many times. They recomend at least once a year, I don't do mine that often and I don't use the ez-lube feature. Mine are all done by hand and I use a high quality seal. I do check the wheels often to make sure the pre-load is right and not too loose.

 

[lwmcguir]

We check the bearings annually by taking off the grease cap, check the appearance of the grease, check the bearing tension and adjust. If the grease and what we see looks OK we grease the bearings while rotating the wheel slowly. Takes about 1/4 tube per bearing. This is only for trailers that are pulled/towed a lot of miles. Our heaiver axles are all oil so were are talking 8K and down here. The others get a 5 year check up. Very few wheels are actually repacked by hand annually if folks are honest. If they arent overloaded, overheated, and travel less than 12K they don't need packed every year IMHO.

 

[JohnDar]

I think the Lippert manual on them is 12 months or 12000 miles, whichever comes first.

 

[caissiel]

Look at it this way. Our Car hubs are never greased but at assembly. The never lube hubs with weaker bearing arangements are never lubed.
I greased ours properly after I had my wheel seal failures 2 years ago. I will check the brakes in the future and change the seals and grease them properly then, but I do check the hub temperatures at every stop when we travel.
I hear so many bad stories about improper greasing that I will never have mine done by anyone but myself. Specialy pumping a few shots of grease once in a while or lost of brakes that I have a feeling the better and less often maintenance is what I feel is required.
P.S. My sealed failed due to improper greasing either at the dealers or the factory before we picked up our unit. And I have a feeling it was done at the dealer because the trailer had been towed 1000 miles when delivered. It was on our first long trip that I had to do maintenance to the hubs.

 

[hoefler]

If you think about it a bit, back in the old days when we had packed wheel bearings in our cars and trucks. The service interval was 30,000 miles or when you needed brakes.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

I guess opinions vary. My car carries maybe 800# per wheel. I understand it rotates a bit faster but it's in no way subjected to the weight and stress of a 15,000# RV wheel assembly. I'll continue to inspect, clean and repack annually. I've done it for as long as I can remember to every type of trailer I've owned. Call me anal but to this day, I've never had a bearing failure. There, I've just jinxed myself.

 

[TeJay]

Much truth has been stated concerning bearing packing. Our cars, trucks only needed repacking every 30-40K miles. So why do a TT every year? Boat trailers are immersed in water every summer so they should be inspected and repacked. My way of thinking is this. Yes TT's may be bearing a greater load than say a truck. The manufacturer should take this into consideration and put larger bearings on TT's that can carry more weight. If in fact they don't, packing them every year is not going to prevent an overloaded system from failing. If the grease lasted on our trucks for 35K miles then changing it yearly won't prevent bearing failure if it's overloaded. Here's what I do and I taught this for 35 years. Keep in mind that the bearing grease does not flow like oil. What is put on the bearing at the time of packing is what you get. Looking at grease that's not on the bearings tells you almost nothing unless it's overheated and running out. You have to inspect the grease to look for metal flakes which is a sign of metal fatigue and certain bearing failure. 1. Inspect the bearings and grease on the bearings, annually if you believe you need to. It won't hurt. When repacking use the best bearing grease you can get. I use Amzoil synthetic or Mobil 1. You can't get any better lube. Use the best seals you can get. Line the hub with a 1/4 inch layer of lube as a moisture barrier. Packing it full is not necessary since it will just stay there until you remove it the next time. Correctly pre-load and adjust your bearing clearance. Bearing side movement should be .001-.003. You should just feel the wheel move. Less than .001 may create to much heat and more than .003 may create to much side pressure and speed up the wear process. This is what I taught and did for 40 years and I have never had a bearing failure.
Just my 20 cents worth.
TeJay

 

[Dale Smith]

Thank You for all of the good advice, thus far.

I have always been of the thinking, that I like to look at the bearings once a year for a good inspection. This gives me an opportunity to look at the seals and replace them, and also to repack the bearings.

Since I am now on the recovery side of the major automobile accident, I am no longer able to be down on the ground doing this kind of work. I will now be looking for a reputable shop to handle this task for me, and allow me to be close at hand to watch the process.

When you're used to doing this stuff yourself, and then you are unable, is a very difficult process to sit back and watch. Unfortunately I feel many RV style service shops seem to lack the type of good service people willing to take on this task and ensure it is done thoroughly.

I am wondering whether this type of task would be better handled by a reputable automotive service center?

The only bearing problems I've ever had were on a small pop-up trailer proximally 25 years ago when we were five hours away from home traveling through downtown Rochester, New York.

We were very fortunate to find a small service center along the roadside and a gentleman in that establishment taught me a lot about wheel bearing care, in the short time he took to resolve us of our problems and get us back on the road.

If that experience that I still remember to this day as one where I learned another life lesson!

Dale

 

[traveler44]

I have packed mine twice since it was new in July 09. The first time I found the grease caps loose and rolling around inside of the hub cap. The second time I found a bearing that was damaged to where it looked like the rollers were about to fall out. This was on the wheel where we had a blown tire so I figure that had something to do with it. I think it is a good time to look at the brakes too. I'm thinking about just changing the whole backing plate assembly the next time if the magnets look too worn. I have heard this is the easiest and cheapest way to go. One thing I have noticed is that the brake shoes aren't very thick but they don't seem to wear very fast.

 

[TeJay]

Dale, From my perspective as a retired automotive instructor I taught and used some techniques to determine if the service department has some quality techs. This isn't foolproof but it does help. I usually ask questions. First off I'll ask if they will machine the drums or rotors if they change shoes/pads. If they answer, "Only if it needs it." then I know they are not competent. Brakes work because of the friction created when the shoes/pads rub against the drum/rotor. The shoes/pads are new but the other half has been subjected to 30-50K miles of abuse. They must be machined to create the other half of the mating surface so the greatest amount of friction can be created. That only happens if both surfaces are mated. Ask them to explain how the tech will determine the proper bearing adjustment. Ask them if they will allow you to provide the synthetic grease to pack the bearings. See if they will allow you to watch the tech. Don't let them say that insurance won't allow it. That's a bunch of hooey. They just don't want a bunch of people in the service area nosing around. Don't get me wrong I understand why they say it but ask kindly and they should let you unless they have something to hide. One last bit of advice. Brake material comes in about 3-5 different grades. The prices on the same vehicle may vary from $20-$80 depending on the quality. If you balk on the $80 grade they'll offer the cheaper stuff. They don't want to loose a sale but you should want the best quality when it comes to brakes. I am familiar with the NAPA guidelines. They make better than OEM replacement brake shoes/pads. I always ask for the best grade they are offering and they are constantly refining what they do offer. Ask the counter guy to explain the different grades. If he/she can't then go to another NAPA store and do the same. They offer them training/information and they should be up on stuff if they are going to sell it. I retired 5 years ago and I have to ask what's new because I've been out of it for so long.

Hope this helps some. Yep it's a bummer when, because of age/accidents etc. you have to stop doing what you know how to do and have to rely on somebody else to do it.
TeJay

 

[Birchwood]

Follow the manufacturers recommendations as with a vehicle or anything else you own.

 

[RoadJunkie]

I checked and packed my bearings after about 1 year of travel, about 8K miles. I wish I had checked them earlier, like before I took the rig off the showroom floor. I found that one of the Zerk fittings on the cap was defective and would not pass grease, never did and never would. I suspect the back pressure was felt by the factory tech and they assumed it was full, but it--or course--was not. I would say, trust but verify.

 

[zurn]

i repacked my bearings and change seals every year, i put about 5000 miles a year. the bearings and seals were always prestine except once there was a lot of water or condensation with some rust on the bearings. i believe this would have been a problem down the road. so i will continue to do it annnually if only for peace of mine. i met a couple with a burned out axle at the cracker barrel in athens tn. his dw was telling him he used the wrong mechanic (she was merciless) to repack the bearings, so finding a qualified mechanic is critcal.

 

[MTPockets]

Following manufacturers advice is the prudent approach. I was in the bearing business for nearly 40 years; 90% of all bearing failures are due to improper lubrication - that means several things; , contaminated lubricant, too little lube, too much lube (yes!), wrong type of lubrication. "Grease" per se, does 'not' lubricate anything. It's the 'oil' in the grease. Grease is the 'carrier' for the oil that's in the grease. There are a number of different carriers. What is best depends on the application: Ball bearings, Roller Bearings, speed, temperature, environment, and more. In industrial applications, there are many environments, but a wheel bearing is subjected to most of the nasty stuff, so it's critical that proper care be given. Use "only" a grease specifically formulated for a 'Wheel Bearing application" . These greases have the proper carrier and the proper viscosity of oil in the grease... Many greases can appear the same but not all are equal... You get what you pay for is a good starting point. Do "NOT" let someone tell you that a particular grease "looks" good.. color means nothing - You can't tell by looking at it, putting a torch to it, throwing it in water, or anything else.... Buy the properly labeled lubricant.. I have my favorite, but there are many fine wheel bearing lubricants.
About too much lube - packing the bearing completely full is a waste of grease. the bearing will run hot, and if too long, the heat will ruin the bearing. In most cases the excess will purge itself out under the seal lip onto the axle. That makes a mess and is best avoided by using a proper amount. Just fill the bearing, but don't cram the cavity around the bearing full of grease - some extra is O.K., but don't fill it.

"AND" .... protect it.... Put on new seals! .... That seal is what keeps all the dust, water, and contaminents out of the grease. Check the shaft surface where the seal lip rides - it that shaft is scratched in any way it has to be repaired. That little scratch will wear the seal quickly and in come the contaminents. There are repair kits available for those cases where the scratch cannot convenienly be repaired. Industrial seal suppliers have what are called "Speedi-sleeves" made by Chicago rawhide, or C/R seal ... I believe National Seal company also has one...

Finally, don't overtighten the bearing. if you do, that will leave the bearing in a permanent pre-loaded condition which causes it to run hot - followed by bearing failure.

Good luck

 

[aatauses]

Is there a manual for replacing the seals/bearings? I have always had it done at a dealer, but now have some time myself and would be willing to do it if i coulod find a show/tell manual??
thanks
al

 

[57chevyconvt]

Go to Lippert's website and down load their recommended procedure for repacking wheel bearings. After reading all of the previous post, which I agree with, little has been said about the proper way to force grease into and through a rolling element bearing. Lots of folks believe that just wiping grease on the O.D. of the bearing and I.D. of the inner race is sufficient, not so. Unfortunately not all mechanics have been trained on the proper way to grease a bearing by forcing the grease through the bearing either by hand or a device to accomplish the job. As previously noted, water, rust, and excessive heat are the primiary enemies of of bearings and seals. I alway use a high quality double lip seal purchased from a bearing supply house that doesn't sell junk.

 

[traveler44]

They have a seminar and have a handout available at the Goshen rally. I believe Etrailer has a show and tell video on how to pack bearings too. If you get the right tools set up it makes the job a lot easier. 1.Jack and blocks to jack the axle up at the ubolt area. I jack with the 5er attached to the truck for safety. 2. Lugnut and spindle nut sockets and torque wrench. Breaker bar and pipe. 3. A cleaning pan, parts brush, lacquer cleaner and brake cleaner spray. 4 A seal puller and bearing press. You can use the kind that is aluminum and has tapered steps and a hammer to seat the races. Some kind of pin to knock the old race out with.5. I use a high heat rated wheel bearing grease and a bearing cup packer to force the old grease out when you pack the new grease in. Even after cleaning the bearings you will find a trace of old grease and cleaner residue that comes out this way. I like to set up the cleaning station and bearing packing on a small table or other surface where I can stand and work and a garden stool to sit on at the wheel. I torque the lugnuts in stages, once when put the wheel on, a second and third time until I get to the 110# with the torque wrench. Sometimes it takes me hours before I get them torqued to the third stage. Change the inside seal every time you pull a hub off so keep some on hand. I keep an spare set of bearings when traveling. You will find 20 guys who will do something slightly different but that doesn't mean they are wrong it just means they have their way of doing things.

 

[traveler44]

When people reply about the frequency of packing the trailer bearings by referring to car and truck bearings you know right away that they don't know much about bearings. It's like comparing bicycle parts to aircraft parts. They are completely different animals. I think most people on this forum are just too polite to tell them so. It just makes them look like they don't know anything about trucks or trailers.

 

[caissiel]

Wheel bearing maintenance is a one liner in every maintenance book I ever refered to.
So I still do wonder why its such a problem for all trailer owners. My feeling is that we get improper maintenance and get shafted often as it is everytime we get some shop do maintenance. I feel everyone is after the $'s and the more the RV has value the more we are asked for return visit.

I have done 50K per years on my vehicles and never had a blown engine, wheel bearing problems, and been at any dealer for maintenance. Never been at an alignment shop but the first time 42 years ago. And my vehicles are not new, all were never traded in, most of the time, they were run till no service value to me.

So why is it that the simple most important maintenace item on our unit has to be so problematic. Yes I do see lots of RV trailers with failed bearings, and they are not the old ones but the newer ones and all sizes.

And yes I feel I am been insulted when I compare cars and truck bearings to trailer bearings. Bearings are bearings.

Trailer bearings do have harsher invironment then cars and trucks because they are abused by being used less and exposed to no running environment that induces moisture by being parked and the longer they are parked the more they need attention. My unit has regular travel intervals that is a greater advantage.
I would never go on a long trip with a trailer that is parked for long extended periods without flushing out the grease completly, and to me the Zirk fittings do just the right job for me when done properly.