Fridge not cooling

[DruidZ]

As I posted in another thread about my A/C, we are currently going through a heat wave. My fridge, which was always running around 35°F is suddenly above 50°. I have tried switching between gas and auto but it doesn't seem to make any difference.

This morning the temp dropped to 70° and the fridge dropped to 42°. We still can't seem to get it down below 40°.

I read some other posts talking about fans and baffles. I checked our fans and they seem to be working fine but they appear to be the same fans as in computers so I was thinking of replacing them anyway. Modern fans can be better at pushing air for the same power.

I just went out and now the fans are not working but I can feel that the pipes are hot and the fridge is still only at 41°.

Some of the discussions about baffles are, well, baffling. I was wondering if I could start with covering the bottom of the cover so that air is forced higher. I was thinking that a piece of cardboard and tape might give me an immediate improvement while I looked into doing a better baffle. However, the design seems to be optimized for only exhausting when it is coming down.

I have attached a couple of pictures. As far as I can tell, what is missing is a piece of sheet metal the width of the inside going from the bottom of the opening where my hand is angled inwards to just below the fins. Does that seem right?

 

[gwalter]

I had the same problem with my previous fridge and it eventually died. What I did find out was the the baffle should be 1/8' from the bottom of the top fins to the outside of the fridge. This was relayed to me by Thetford. Mine originally looked like yours which was well below the fins. I used some aluminum flashing and built it to the specs provided. That forces all of the air from the fans through the baffles. I also added insulation on the top of the fridge to close the dead air space there. Hope this helps.

 

[Gary521]

The baffles that people are talking about are sheet metal that directs air at the coil at the top of the fridge. If that coil does not get enough air flow on it, the fridge will not cool properly. A fridge in a slide will have two vents while a fridge that is not in a slide will have a top vent that is in the roof. If the fans are not working properly, neither will the fridge. If your fans are not working, the thing to suspect is the thermostat that controls the fans.
Heartland adds a piece of sheet metal covering part of the top vent which is supposed to help direct air towards the top coil instead of just blowing out the top vent. The first picture that you added looks like the coils have no sheet metal to direct air over it. Some of us have added addition fans to help the air that has passed over the top coils to exit the top vent instead of just being stagnant. If you have the mounting instructions for your fridge ( usually in the info packet that came with the trailer ), it will show how to baffle the back of the fridge to get the proper air flow.

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I would fabricate something to add fans that will blow up and at the coil. The two red wires in the first picture look like the wires that go to the thermostat ( maybe ). If the thermostat is in a location that you cannot get to, add a new one and mount it to the top coil someplace. You can also add fans right onto the top vent pointing out to help exit the hot air.

Here is a video that shows how one guy did it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wVTP89-Btg

another one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEQwReqJcMU

 

[wdk450]

The main idea on the baffle at the top is to channel ambient heat exchange air through the many sets of fins on the cooling unit, and not allowing this upward flow of cooler air to take another path and bypass the heat exchange fin system. Also in a slide mounted refrigerator, the heat exchange air should be vented from the compartment efficiently from the refrigerator enclosure at the top vent. I have thought for years that these refrigerators should have a sheet metal back plate to keep the air bypass from happening, but no ammonia adsorption refrigerator manufacturer has ever done this, to my knowledge.

I use a high powered dual fan system like this, in addition to the installed computer fans: https://rvcoolingunit.com/-2-Conden...d-thermostat-and-wiring-Harness-P5819119.aspx I have the 2 fans mounted to the top and bottom vent grilles; the bottom fan mounted vertically inside the vent grille with the wide impeller face pointing outward and pulling in ambient air, and the outflow blowing upwards into the cooling unit. The top fan is mounted horizontally on the top vent grille with the impeller rotor facing downwards over the cooling unit condenser (top cooling unit finned device). This top fan collects hot air from the cooling unit cooling air flow and forcibly exhausts it out the vent. I had to do some cutting on the top vent to get it to mount this way. This results in a strong flow of hot heat exchange air exiting the top vent.

Of course, I have fiberglass batting stuffed in to fill the dead air spaces on the sides and top of the refrigerator, with the foil radiant barrier facing towards the outside.

I am located in an area with 100-105 high temps daily throughout the summer. As additional cooling help, I move my refrigerator heat source from AC power to propane when the heat outside is above 90 degrees. I also keep 2 larger blue ice blocks in the freezer overnight, and usually move these to the refrigerator upper shelf at about noon each hot day. I have observed my refrigerator cooling unit inside fins covered with frost and frozen condensate drips at the hottest part of the afternoons. I can keep the refrigerator near freezing all of the time in the hot weather. I have new heating elements for the refrigerator, but installing these will involve removing all of the mounting screws and pushing the refrigerator forward in the box to make enough access room to install these, so I am putting that job off for a while.

BTW, the refrigerator is a Dometic NDR1292 double door vertical freezer 12 cu ft model which is now about 10 years old.

 

[danemayer]

I've attached a couple of diagrams provided by Norcold and Dometic and by Heartland Owners on baffle recommendations for the Dometic RM1350 and Norcold 1200 series. They're essentially recommending the same thing. Air coming in the lower vent has to be directed to be rising along the backside of the refrigerator, aided by fans, and directed through the fins and out the top vent.

 

[hoefler]

Are you level??

 

[cookie]

If you want to install a baffle here are a couple pics of how I did mine.


Peace
Dave

 

[DruidZ]

I've attached a couple of diagrams provided by Norcold and Dometic and by Heartland Owners on baffle recommendations for the Dometic RM1350 and Norcold 1200 series. They're essentially recommending the same thing. Air coming in the lower vent has to be directed to be rising along the backside of the refrigerator, aided by fans, and directed through the fins and out the top vent.

That last one seems like the best solution. I am also going to change the fans since they are just computer fans and new ones will be cheap and probably quieter and more efficient. They look to be dead simple to change so it's probably worth changing whether they absolutely need to or not.

I also want to see how easy the temp sensor is to change. At this point that's what I am suspecting as the problem.

This morning the temperature dropped down significantly to about 20°C (68°F) and the fridge is now at 2.6°C (36°F) which is where it usually is.

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Are you level??

No but the trailer is.

Seriously, I just checked the inside of the fridge itself in case it was somehow off from the trailer but it is perfectly level.

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If you want to install a baffle here are a couple pics of how I did mine.

What are those fasteners screwed into? Did you start by adding some struts?

 

[JohnDar]

If you want to install a baffle here are a couple pics of how I did mine.


Peace
Dave

Is your OEM fan mounted in the middle of the cabinet? On mine, it’s mounted at the top, right behind the grille so it blows toward the outside through the cover panel.
I recall seeing fridges at the factory a few years ago with them in the center and wondered why mine was different.

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[cookie]

Is your OEM fan mounted in the middle of the cabinet? On mine, it’s mounted at the top, right behind the grille so it blows toward the outside through the cover panel.
I recall seeing fridges at the factory a few years ago with them in the center and wondered why mine was different.

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John, I have two fans which I upgraded to the larger ones and they are located in the center of the cabinet so they blow air upward then directed by the baffle to flow over the cooling fins.

Peace
Dave

 

[cookie]

What are those fasteners screwed into? Did you start by adding some struts?

The pop rivets that you see are there to hold two pieces together. I could not get one whole piece in there so the baffle is split.
The ends of the baffle are bent on an angle then screwed to some aluminum framing of the side wall.

Peace
Dave

 

[CDN]

John,

Gamons RV repairs in Talbotville on Hwy 3 repairs asorbtion units on RV fridges should the need arise. I had a Dometic system repaired there at one time. Was $350 vs $ 1700 for new. I have had units go vapour locked as well. Tank fridge out turn upside down, shake and reinstall, worked just fine after that procedure.

Brian

 

[JohnDar]

John, I have two fans which I upgraded to the larger ones and they are located in the center of the cabinet so they blow air upward then directed by the baffle to flow over the cooling fins.

Peace
Dave

I understand. So far, our fridge (DM2862) has been working fine since we got it. Early on, the dealer did the burner upgrade on it and I replaced the drain line myself two years ago. I have a fan salvaged from an old computer if I ever need to replace the original.


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[carl.swoyer]

I understand. So far, our fridge (DM2862) has been working fine since we got it. Early on, the dealer did the burner upgrade on it and I replaced the drain line myself two years ago. I have a fan salvaged from an old computer if I ever need to replace the original.


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John what was the burner upgrade that the dealership did.


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[JohnDar]

John what was the burner upgrade that the dealership did.


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Been a long time, Carl, but I think it had something to do with the shield around the burner on some models. I might be able to find it in my files.


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[TajMyhaul]

I’ve run into refrigerator problems as well on a Norcold model 121X in my 2013 Landmark Mesa.

Thanks to all the threads on the forum I’ve been trouble shooting with a couple items left to check/modify.

Last summer at the Goshen rally I attended Terry Cooper’s 3 day academy & got educated, this summer I get to use that knowledge.

My freezer section works OK but would like it colder like most folks and the main area of fridge is only at the 40-45 degree range. So trouble shooting began.

photo 1 shows metal baffle at top exhaust area in my slide out & is critical to make sure air from the 2 computer fans (photo 4) goes up over the cooling fins. It is properly positioned. I intend to add a metal curved piece to direct air out of cabinet as there is about 2” of open space at the top of the refrigerator space. That should help warm air exit cabinet more effectively.

photo 2 shows thermostat on fin at the right side ( back of RV) that I used a hair dryer to check to see if it would make fan run. Good news is that it worked. Per other posts I ordered the 2 fan kit from Cooling unit warehouse ( https://rvcoolingunit.com/-2-Conden...d-thermostat-and-wiring-Harness-P5819119.aspx) to be installed next weekend.

photo 4 shows the computer fans located just below the cooling fins.

photo 3 is next step in trouble shooting effort - the thermistor located inside the refrigerator access by opening the fridge door, opening a “ cool - not cold - beer” then use voltmeter to check to se if it’s working. I ordered an extra one from amazon just in case. Old Boy Scout of Eagle rank 🦅

photo 5 is model tag from inside refrigerator.

Like I said above I value all the forum threads on this problem and am learning how to navigate & search this forum for valuable information that is missing from manuals that came with the TajMyHaul.

Best of luck to all who are searching for colder beer and hard ice cream

Bob

 

[Gary521]

I’ve run into refrigerator problems as well on a Norcold model 121X in my 2013 Landmark Mesa.

Thanks to all the threads on the forum I’ve been trouble shooting with a couple items left to check/modify.

Last summer at the Goshen rally I attended Terry Cooper’s 3 day academy & got educated, this summer I get to use that knowledge.

My freezer section works OK but would like it colder like most folks and the main area of fridge is only at the 40-45 degree range. So trouble shooting began.

photo 1 shows metal baffle at top exhaust area in my slide out & is critical to make sure air from the 2 computer fans (photo 4) goes up over the cooling fins. It is properly positioned. I intend to add a metal curved piece to direct air out of cabinet as there is about 2” of open space at the top of the refrigerator space. That should help warm air exit cabinet more effectively.

photo 2 shows thermostat on fin at the right side ( back of RV) that I used a hair dryer to check to see if it would make fan run. Good news is that it worked. Per other posts I ordered the 2 fan kit from Cooling unit warehouse ( https://rvcoolingunit.com/-2-Conden...d-thermostat-and-wiring-Harness-P5819119.aspx) to be installed next weekend.

photo 4 shows the computer fans located just below the cooling fins.

photo 3 is next step in trouble shooting effort - the thermistor located inside the refrigerator access by opening the fridge door, opening a “ cool - not cold - beer” then use voltmeter to check to se if it’s working. I ordered an extra one from amazon just in case. Old Boy Scout of Eagle rank 🦅

photo 5 is model tag from inside refrigerator.

Like I said above I value all the forum threads on this problem and am learning how to navigate & search this forum for valuable information that is missing from manuals that came with the TajMyHaul.

Best of luck to all who are searching for colder beer and hard ice cream

Bob

Because of the way that the vent opening is designed, air does not easily flow out the top vent. Adding a couple of fans blowing out the top vent helps.

 

[JohnDar]

John what was the burner upgrade that the dealership did.


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Actually, the "upgrade" may have been done by the factory, or even Dometic, since the problem arose in earlier refrigerator models. It's the metal plate (wind shield) on the right of the photo to protect the boiler. Earlier designs left the burner exposed. Now that I remember it, I had a mobile tech at the rig back in late summer of 2009 and he commented that the baffle had been installed after checking.

 

[lynndiwagoner]

This hot weather is really hard on those RV fridges. Before I replaced mine with a residential I did everything to try and get that thing to work right. Putting them in slides is probably not the best situation as the baffling needs to be perfect. On my BC the fridge was not centered in the opening and there was a large area next to it that was open. I added two additional fans on the top cover and three on the bottom cover to move more air to no avail. I thought it odd that the heat stack vent was inside the area that needed to be vented. Makes no sense. The old two door RV fridges seemed to work the best and I think they've overdone it trying to get the bigger three door RV fridges in these rigs. I've got a bunch of fans and control boxes that are good and should probably put them on ebay or something.

 

[wdk450]

Re: "Best of luck to all who are searching for colder beer and hard ice cream".

Read the following from RVCoolingUnitWarehouse.com about their Amish Refrigeration Company ammonia absorption replacement cooling units. Pay attention to the emphasized section:



"RV Cooling Unit Warehouse", is the Norcold and Dometic aftermarket cooling unit place to shop ....We are so glad you are here! You have come to the best place to order your aftermarket replacement RV Cooling Unit. We stock just about every cooling unit for bothNorcold and Dometic RV refrigerators. The cooling units we warehouse are manufactured by only one company. This manufacturer builds both a Brand-new cooling units from scratch, and also completely re-manufactures the old leaking or non-working cooling unit cores. The re-manufactured cooling unit is the most common cooling unit used to get RV'ers refrigerators back to a working condition. We sell & stock both, the re-manufactured as well as the new cooling units. There are more details about each model on the item description pages.
Here is a little data about these cooling units. They are built by an Amish Refrigeration Manufacturer that mainly builds complete Home Refrigerators & Home Freezer Units. Most of the companies that re-manufacture cooling units that you have read about or find on the Internet, only re-work the old cores of defective units. That's the norm. The one thing that sets this manufacturer apart from all others is they do both new and re-manufactured units without doing the normal types of repairs, such as using the standard cooling charge of ammonia and the hydrogen pressure charge. From many many years of testing to get the Home Refrigerators to be able to get cold and of course hold the coldest for the longest hot summer months. They came up with propriety formulas in order to build extra cold and dependable cooling units. As you know a Home Refrigerator carries more food, plus don't forget the ice cream needs to stay frozen hard.We searched for a long time before discovering this Amish company, with such great quality and performance, and we don't feel you will be disappointed. We are so confident in this company and the cooling units they build, we give a COMPLETE SATISFACTION GUARANTEE with a money back policy within 30 days.