danemayer
Well-known member
Hi mrmorris,
Sorry you're having a problem with the furnace.
When the thermostat calls for heat, a relay fires, supplying power to the furnace control board. The blower motor starts up and if it moves enough air, the sail switch activates. With the sail switch activated, it'll turn on gas flow and try to ignite, and then checks for successful ignition.
If you hear the relay click, and the blower starts pushing cold air through the ducts, after a few seconds you should hear the "whoosh" sound of the burner lighting. A few seconds after that you should be able to feel warm air coming out of the ducts.
A common problem is poor propane flow. On fifth wheels, if the high-pressure regulator on the doorside tank starts to fail, or the high-pressure pigtail on that side starts to fail, you may have reduced propane flow. Also, if the tank valve was opened too quickly, the built-in protection device may shut off propane flow. If you close and slowly reopen the tank valve the problem might be resolved. If that doesn't do it, try swapping the tank to the other position to eliminate a pigtail/regulator problem.
Another problem is something blocking airflow, which would keep the sail switch from activating. Make sure there's nothing blocking the air return and check for insect nests at the back of the furnace.
Sorry you're having a problem with the furnace.
When the thermostat calls for heat, a relay fires, supplying power to the furnace control board. The blower motor starts up and if it moves enough air, the sail switch activates. With the sail switch activated, it'll turn on gas flow and try to ignite, and then checks for successful ignition.
If you hear the relay click, and the blower starts pushing cold air through the ducts, after a few seconds you should hear the "whoosh" sound of the burner lighting. A few seconds after that you should be able to feel warm air coming out of the ducts.
A common problem is poor propane flow. On fifth wheels, if the high-pressure regulator on the doorside tank starts to fail, or the high-pressure pigtail on that side starts to fail, you may have reduced propane flow. Also, if the tank valve was opened too quickly, the built-in protection device may shut off propane flow. If you close and slowly reopen the tank valve the problem might be resolved. If that doesn't do it, try swapping the tank to the other position to eliminate a pigtail/regulator problem.
Another problem is something blocking airflow, which would keep the sail switch from activating. Make sure there's nothing blocking the air return and check for insect nests at the back of the furnace.
gasman
Camp Socializer
Be sure you have plenty of power. If you aren't on shorepower, your batteries may be too low to power the ignitor. Turn on the stove burners to make sure you have fuel and pressure. Make sure the intake and exhaust vents aren't blocked. Make sure the thermostat is set properly and turned on to heat. Most circuit boards are three try boards. Try recycling the controls to reset the board.
What RV furnace manufacturer makes "the good ones"?
mikeandconnie
Well-known member
I had problem with my Suburban furnace a few months ago.It would not spark or the fan would not blow. Turned out to be the Fan Control Ignitor Board burnt out. It was made in China.
trading-time
Member
Same problem with our Suburban furnace after one year, bad board Made in China replaced with one Made in USA. Problem solved ---
danemayer
Well-known member
The relay may be mounted overhead with the living room Air Conditioner. Look above the A/C intake filter for a box with several connectors. If you don't hear that relay, and the furnace blower doesn't start, you may have a loose connection between thermostat and relay. I would check the thermostat connections first.
happykraut
Well-known member
Well, I guess, I might as well chime in too. My Suburbon hasn't worked since we left home in the beginning of Feb. The last two mornings after startup it would blow cold air for a while and then shut down. Dan, after reading your post, I switched tanks, both of which are full, and it has been running great since. I got it set for 80 deg, so it has not cycled yet. It still makes the fog horn noise that you heard in Kerrville. The fog horn goes off 2 or 3 times at startup and then periodically while it is heating. I'll let you know what happens when it gets up to heat.
Thanks flanman - I wasn't aware Atwood made an RV furnace. Maybe we'll be looking at them for some of our product lines. I've noticed over the last 2 years, more Atwood content in our products.
happykraut
Well-known member
The furnace has been cycling and heating all day. Cookie came over and we did notice that the regulator was acting flaky. At on point with both tanks open, the indicator would not turn green. Sure feels good to have some heat.
Not sure why they changed from the older systems that worked great in years past. I buy a new holiday trailer every 4 years and this is the first suburban furnace. Not liking it at all. The Trailer itself is great. Other then a few minor issues that were dealt with but none the less great trailer.
I had Atwood furnace in my Jayco's and they worked flawlessly in summer and winter as I live in mine for work and I am talking -42 C.
Rant over...
Thanks,
I had Atwood furnace in my Jayco's and they worked flawlessly in summer and winter as I live in mine for work and I am talking -42 C.
Rant over...
Thanks,
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Bryon,
Welcome to the Heartland family and to the Heartland Owners Forum. There's lots of helpful information here along with a great bunch of friendly people who are quick to reach out with help when needed.
If the furnace is running a lot, you can go through a tank pretty quickly. (Btw, I assume you mean 30 pound tank.) Based on discussions in past threads, 2 - 3 days sounds about right.
On edit, I see from your other post that it's warm. You may be using more propane than needed if your duct has come loose.
