Garbage Disposal Waste Pump

[Go-Fly]

There is going to be times this winter when I have to pump my holding tanks to an outlet 50ft away. Read about this on another forums and thought I would give it a try.



Started out building the bottom flange. It's two plates bolted together so they can come apart to install.



Cut the corners off the plate with the bandsaw. Before I put it in the lathe I drilled and tapped the four mounting holes for the top flange.



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Faced off the front of the flange on the lathe.



Then turned the OD so I had a round flange.



Now I have a two part flange that can clamp onto the garbage disposal. Had to turn a relief on the back side to clear the casting.



Fits like a glove.

 

[wdk450]

Is this supposed to be something like a macerator/pump? http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/flojet-rv-waste-pump-kit/26125

Where does your garbage disposal connect? If permanently connected, have you accounted for the garbage disposal weight bouncing on the plumbing while your trailer bounces down the road?

 

[Go-Fly]

Is this supposed to be something like a macerator/pump? http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/flojet-rv-waste-pump-kit/26125

Where does your garbage disposal connect? If permanently connected, have you accounted for the garbage disposal weight bouncing on the plumbing while your trailer bounces down the road?

It is a macerator pump but with a three inch inlet and more horse power. Just like the one from Camping World, you take it off and on when you use it. Can connect with a three inch flex hose or direct with a stand to hold the weight. I'm not sure how I'm going to connect this one until I get there. My dump outlet is very low.

 

[jbeletti]

Interesting project. Consider using a 3" CamLock fitting on your grinder and convert your sewer termination to CamLock. Much better than bayonet connections.

The Wastemaster hose system is very nice. Been using it since 2008.

 

[wdk450]

It is a macerator pump but with a three inch inlet and more horse power. Just like the one from Camping World, you take it off and on when you use it. Can connect with a three inch flex hose or direct with a stand to hold the weight. I'm not sure how I'm going to connect this one until I get there. My dump outlet is very low.

The existing RV macerators are limited in power (and capabilities) due to the fact that they are designed for portable RVing, and therefore use 12 volt DC power sources. You are going to get A LOT MORE action power from the nuclear plant (grid) powering the AC outlet than the automotive battery powering the 12 volt outlet.

 

[richheck]

Here is a link to a similar project but much easier for us without the metal machining equipment.

http://steampunkworkshop.com/diy-rv-macerator-pump/

Like the OP originally stated, much stronger motor being 110 volt vs 12 volt.

 

[Go-Fly]

Here is a link to a similar project but much easier for us without the metal machining equipment.

http://steampunkworkshop.com/diy-rv-macerator-pump/

Like the OP originally stated, much stronger motor being 110 volt vs 12 volt.

Hadn't seen that one but yes, thank you for the link. My hose is going to be lower then my holding tanks. Because water will flow through the disposal I'll leave the gray tanks open and dump the black water when it gets about 80%. Even if the grays drain slowly, the tanks will act as a buffer.

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Interesting project. Consider using a 3" CamLock fitting on your grinder and convert your sewer termination to CamLock. Much better than bayonet connections.

The Wastemaster hose system is very nice. Been using it since 2008.

Interesting connection. I don't think I've ever seen that used on a RV. Seeing how my connections are going to be out in the sun for some time, I plan on changing them often. I've never had one break on me but, I've seen it happen.

 

[Go-Fly]

Made the top flange. It's drilled to match the four tapped holes in the bottom flange so the two can be bolted together. There is an o-ring seal that goes between the top flange and the disposal. Also the sewer connection is threaded into the top flange so it can be replaced.



Turned a square plate to a round flange. You can see where the o-ring groove is.




Test fitting the sewer connection.


Test fit to the disposal and bottom flange.

 

[jbeletti]

...Interesting connection. I don't think I've ever seen that used on a RV. Seeing how my connections are going to be out in the sun for some time, I plan on changing them often. I've never had one break on me but, I've seen it happen.

With all the weight you'll have on the end of the sewer termination, without support, you'll snap the bayonet tabs. CamLock my friend. Probably can get a 3" CamLock male fitting threaded on one end and thread it into your aluminum plate.

 

[Go-Fly]

With all the weight you'll have on the end of the sewer termination, without support, you'll snap the bayonet tabs. CamLock my friend. Probably can get a 3" CamLock male fitting threaded on one end and thread it into your aluminum plate.

I'm going to see how well this works then, build a stand for the disposal and connect it with a short flex hose. That will take all the forces out of the equation. Most the weight is sitting on the ground with the current set-up. No way you could hang that much weight off the sewer termination. I did add a extra support when I added the valve on the termination. This will hold it for now. Will stop by the fluid air shop and see what they have for cam lock connections.

 

[jbeletti]

Unsure how this could only be $10 delivered but had to share...


Use that on your macerator with this on your RV. Could be an amazing system

 

[Go-Fly]

Got it all done and it works great. Takes about 4 minutes to empty a tank and can lift water out of the hose 10ft. Going to add a switch and a plug-in for the disposal next week. That will finish up this job.

 

[jbeletti]

Very cool!

 

[richheck]

Nice job, looks great


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[SLO]

That's amazing. I wouldn't have thought a Badger 5, or any disposal wouldn't lift fluids that much. They do create quite a suction though. Good job!


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[Go-Fly]

Built a stand and hooked it up with a short hose. Works better on its side and there is no weight on the sewer outlet.



Cut a hole in the end for the inlet to go through. Turned the tote up-side-down to keep the weather off of it.



Installed an outdoor on-off switch. Water proof and a GFCI outlet.



It all goes back into the tote for storage. I'll leave it in storage until I need it.


This was a fun project. Thanks for following the thread and happy travels.

 

[jbeletti]

You do amazing work!

 

[CarterKraft]

This was going to be my plan if the Sewer Solution didn't work out.

Great thread and build.


I will add if anyone is looking at Cam-Locks there is an alternative to the stainless or aluminum style that might be more fitting for a RV. The Banjo reinforced nylon fittings are very strong and lighter than the others, very affordable too. These are widely used in agriculture and are available at many farm supply stores.

http://www.banjocorp.com/products/cam-lever-couplings

 

[Go-Fly]

Little update on the system. I built one for a friend and his garbage disposal had a rubber retainer ring on the thrust bearing. It pulled out and stopped pumping. Mine had a steel one and is still working fine. Was a small fix and he was on his way. I'll add to this thread on how to fix this problem when I get back. Also I think I'll add a cooling fan. It takes about 5 minutes to pump out a 50 gallon tank through a 100ft hose. That's 15 minutes of run time for all three tanks and she gets a little hot. Doing laundry tonight so I will have to pump the tanks in the morning.